69 rat house

[Esteban]

Everything is looking so sharp. Congratulations, you've done a great job!

[RiverPatrol]

Very nice work.

[nizmut]

So they are still killing me at work, but I do get a few minutes here and there. Got the front end back under the Patrol this weekend.

20180520_171424 (Custom).jpg

Seems I spend as much or more time sourcing parts as working on it. Waiting on the shocks, steering buffer, and sway bar end links.

20180520_171444 (Custom).jpg

The Deaver springs are so much nicer then the home made packs that were in it. Sits like this now with 10 minutes of jumping on the frame horns, should settle a little more.

20180520_171524 (Custom).jpg

Off to the rear next.

[Esteban]

It is looking great!

Did you change the rubber mounts for the sway bar? And let us know what will you be using for the sway bar links.

[RiverPatrol]

Looks great with all the new parts and paint.

[nizmut]

swaybar bushings http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.5124
endlinks http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.8163

The drag link end covers and tie rod end covers are off the compatible parts list

[mdawg4x4]

swaybar bushings http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.5124
endlinks http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.8163

The drag link end covers and tie rod end covers are off the compatible parts list

I'll be curious to see how these work out. And your brake line skills are mad! I don't want anybody looking at mine.

[nizmut]

swaybar bushings http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.5124
endlinks http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.8163

The drag link end covers and tie rod end covers are off the compatible parts list

I'll be curious to see how these work out. And your brake line skills are mad! I don't want anybody looking at mine.

My thumbs hurt for 2 days after the brake lines

[nizmut]

Well looks like we hit a snafu. Pulled the rear axle to install the rear springs yesterday. After pulling the axles to pack the bearings I drained the diff to change the gear lube. Had some large bits of shim stock on the magnet along with the normal paste. Also what appears to be flakes of chrome, probably the facing on the gears or bearings. So I decided to move it in the shop and open it up.
So I went into the shop and set 2 pipe stands up, walked out and picked it up, clunk. What the hell? Every step, clunk. It is about 50' from the stands outside to the stands inside so lots of clunks.
Pulled the cover and found .050 inches (1.25mm) of end play in the carrier, could be more, the pinion could be stopping it. Lets just say there is enough play I can watch the bearings ride up and down the tapers going side to side.
So not to confident in this ring and pinion.
So if anybody has a ring and pinion, or diff laying around let me know.
Also Esteban do you remember what bearings you used. And the shop manual says the front and rear are the same parts. Is that true for the R&P also?

[Esteban]

Sorry to hear about the problems with your rear diff.

Also Esteban do you remember what bearings you used. And the shop manual says the front and rear are the same parts. Is that true for the R&P also?

If your front differential is in good condition, that should be your first option. All the parts are exactly the same. In addition, the normal wear happens in the opposite side of the pinion teeth faces (like if the rear differential was constantly driven in reverse!) so you can have a fresh start once swapped front to back. If the bearings at the front differential are in good condition, what I've done in the past is swap all the components entirely from front to back, without worrying about the setup.

In October 2013 I repaired my rear differential. I think I never wrote all the details about it, so I need to do that. Since the repair, I've driven 4,000 miles, so I called it good. By the way, I couldn't do the swap of front to rear, since that was already done years ago.

If you plan on repairing it, please do a contact pattern of the gears before dismantling. You will want to replicate that pattern once the new parts are installed.

The following are the bearings involved:
Pinion Bearings: 30207, 32208, one each.
Carrier Bearings: 32209JX, two needed (these bearings are basically unobtanium) I used 32209 bearings instead. The problem is that the bearing cup for the JX one is unique to the Patrol. It's about 3mm taller than a standard cup. I improvised some shims for this.

Here is a thread from ToadsPatrol. He used the original bearings that he had purchase years ago.
http://www.60patrol.com/forum/viewtopic ... 31&p=38857

And here's the one with some of my initial concerns about the carrier bearings and how to solve it:
http://www.60patrol.com/forum/viewtopic ... 26&p=15710

I mention there Ratech Manufacturing, where I purchase the shims. I will try to come with the list of shims and combinations of them.