1967 Family Patrol Project

Builds, refurbishments, restorations, upgrades

Postby faux40 » Wed Sep 09, 2020 11:22 am

Mounts -- Ugh! Here's the scoop...

  • 4WD Products in Australia literally said that I missed the boat on mounts (it was a nicely worded email... they weren't being flip) -- they don't have any more and don't expect to get any more.
  • Then-n-Now Automotive in Massachusetts has the molds (thanks to our buddy moore_rb) and will gladly rebuild yours all fresh with newly vulcanized rubber so they will have that treasured new-motor-mount smell! But, they do require that you take a second mortgage for a set! $85 per mount! Ouch!

River to the Rescue!
River saved the day with a set of good, used mounts! After a little clean-up and a little paint, you won't be able to tell these from some freshly vulcanized ones... well, maybe except for the lack of that new-motor-mount smell! ;-)
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John
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Postby faux40 » Wed Sep 09, 2020 11:43 am

Sheet metal question - how thick is it? Using my low quality gauge, the roof sheet metal measures about 0.04" -- slightly under thickness of 19 gauge (0.0418).

Can someone with a decent caliper measure the thickness of the sheet metal on the Patrol? The roof, door skin, hood skin, etc. and let me know?

Thanks!

John
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Postby Esteban » Wed Sep 09, 2020 1:21 pm

Glad you sorted out the motor mounts with RiverPatrol help! :clap: :clap: :clap:

faux40 wrote:Sheet metal question - how thick is it? Using my low quality gauge, the roof sheet metal measures about 0.04" -- slightly under thickness of 19 gauge (0.0418).

Can someone with a decent caliper measure the thickness of the sheet metal on the Patrol? The roof, door skin, hood skin, etc. and let me know?

Thanks!

John


I did some body work repair on mine during the lockdown, and I used 18 gauge. Member 50car also confirmed to me that, although he used 20 gauge for non structural repairs, and 18 for structural's.

I couldn't find my notes regarding the actual measurement of the sheet metal.
Owner of the same Patrol since 1967
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Postby faux40 » Wed Sep 09, 2020 3:11 pm

Thanks! Esteban!

I'd guess that while 18 gauge would be a little tougher to work with, it will be more forgiving to weld in place!

J
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Postby faux40 » Thu Sep 10, 2020 11:34 pm

Big adventure time coming up!

So the frame is at the sandblasters --
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Together with it's body panels once again!
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So, here's the plan -- The frame will be blasted Monday morning. I'll be picking up the naked frame at 2pm and dragging it home where I'll have five-ish hours of daylight to...

Beat the frame ends straight. The measurement show that the bending is in front of radiator mounting pads
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And rebuild the cross member!
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To get ready for the adventure, I picked up some 1/8" plate for the cross member top. Em borrowed a oxy-acetelyene torch for the de-bending. Once we are done with all that we'll park it where it will stay dry to prevent flash-rusting (good thing its slated to be dry Monday night!

Check out the cool tank cart!
welding_cart.jpeg


Then first thing Tuesday morning, I drag it back to the shop were the newly welding pieces will get some touch up blasting, then off to the powder coat oven! I think that we are going satin black powder coat on the frame. Thoughts?

John
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Postby jwgreen » Fri Sep 11, 2020 9:14 am

Satin Black it a great choice!! IMHO
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Postby faux40 » Fri Sep 11, 2020 2:02 pm

I need a little help ASAP -- I need a couple close up pictures of the front bumper mounting bracket. Shortly after the crash, a neighbor made a replacement bumper for us (yea, the best neighbor ever!). He also cut out the mounting brackets but did not attach them. I want to get the new bumper blasted and coated with the frame so I need to complete it this weekend.
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I hope that someone with a stock bumper can take a picture of the bumper mounting -- how much extends from the bumper edge toward the frame, etc. (perhaps put a tape measure on it). Are there any internal brackets to help support the bumper?
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On an unrelated note -- Lookie what my neighbor dragged home last night. Sadly he doesn't get to keep it, but it is super cool!
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Thanks!

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Postby RiverPatrol » Fri Sep 11, 2020 3:46 pm

Here ya go!

IMG_8636.jpg
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Beyond any hope for intervention

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Postby faux40 » Fri Sep 11, 2020 4:42 pm

Awesome! Thanks River -- You rock! Looks like I need to get cracking on making a couple lower mounts!

john

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Postby faux40 » Sat Sep 12, 2020 11:53 pm

Exciting day! Lookie what showed up! A little time in the blaster and a coat of black paint and they'll look as good as new! ;-)
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And, I spent the day learning how to make boxes! I ordered some parts to I can pressure test it for leaks... I'm sure that this one leaks like a sieve. Tig welding is hard... very hard! But with some practice, I'll be making a replacement gas tank all on my own!
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Happy Sat!
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Postby jwgreen » Sun Sep 13, 2020 10:06 am

Awesome John!!

One of these days I'm gonna get myself a TIG welder!! I love how much more control you have over the welds than with MIG, which is what I have currently. Granted they all have their time and place.
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Postby faux40 » Sun Sep 13, 2020 10:52 pm

Shiny, freshly sand blasted mounts!
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Postby faux40 » Tue Sep 15, 2020 1:04 am

Big day today! Well, didn't get as far as I needed to, but I'll get the rest done in the AM in time to get it back to the power coaters.

First, don't the motor mounts look good with a new coat of black paint?
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The freshly blasted raw frame came home today -- and there are a few problems we'll need to address...
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The inside of the middle cross member was, well, perforated. Dang! Not just the bottom. The sides will need some attention too (although they are nowhere as bad!).
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The front, driver side spring mount weld split in the crash -- will need to weld that!
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End view of the same frame rail about half way fixed. The other side is also bent - although not as much and without any twist like this one.
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Step 1 -- Double up the bottom inside of the cross member
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With the inner reinforcement in place
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Next -- FLIP! The bottom of the cross member -- I had trouble laying a bead where the metal was super thin.
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Working the 1/8" plate across the underside of the cross member -- essentially doubling up the double up.
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Formed up and heavily tacked into place
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Next, I welded the entire seam and then ground the sides flat
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I also made 10 new frame straps that I'll be able to add where I think they will help -- there are two on the cross member cover I will be putting back on, but I'll take a quick look and add more if I think they'll help! They're just strips of 16 gauge with a hole that I'll use for a plug-weld.

Projects for the morning --
  • Put reinforcing sides on the cross member -- I have them plasma cut to shape (boy I must have been drunk when plasma cutting! It's hard to trace a line with all the sparks!). Then the edges will be rounded over to make the repair less obvious as it will look like the original. Although I'm going to put in two or three somewhat larger holes for drainage in hopes it will not get compacted. Plus, I'll be running a weld bead around the inside of the hole to stick the layers together so water can't get between them easily.
  • Grind back the weld crack on the spring mount (I'll closely inspect and fix the other front spring mount if needed).
  • FLIP! then the inside of the cross member will be coated with galvanizing spray to resist a future re-rust out! I'll put the cover back on the cross member.
  • Then it's back for some powder love!

Happy Tuesday!

John
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Postby mad4hws » Tue Sep 15, 2020 5:47 am

Nice work. Should last another 50 years.
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Postby jwgreen » Tue Sep 15, 2020 11:05 am

Looking good John!!!
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