ckhorne's 1967 project

Builds, refurbishments, restorations, upgrades

Postby faux40 » Sat Sep 06, 2014 3:24 pm

ckhorne wrote:I'm hoping the oil priming will show if they're all open. In doing this, I had to unscrew all the valve adjusters out of the way, but I knew they had to be reset, so this gave me the chance to loosen them all up.


It's looking really, really good! It's likely that no oil will reach the top end when just priming with the oil pump because there is only two tiny spots per cam revolution where oil can get to the top end. Unless your cam is perfectly aligned (they're probably less than five degrees wide), no oil will make it to the top. However, driving the pump to pre-prime the oiling system is important, followed by cranking the engine with the spark plugs out for a bit. Then you should get oil to the top. I actually put a mechanical gauge on the main galley so I could watch the pressure in real time. Using a drill on the oil pump achieves up to 60psi, cranking without plugs gets 25psi, and up to 75psi when running.

Lastly, I wrapped a rag around the oil pump drive shaft (the home made one that goes to the drill) to seal the distributor opening. The oil belches up a bunch and if you don't seal it a bit, you may get a shower...

Have fun!

John
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Postby ckhorne » Sat Sep 06, 2014 7:24 pm

faux40 wrote:It's looking really, really good! It's likely that no oil will reach the top end when just priming with the oil pump because there is only two tiny spots per cam revolution where oil can get to the top end. Unless your cam is perfectly aligned (they're probably less than five degrees wide), no oil will make it to the top.


Ah... that makes sense. Good to know, too - I would have been scratching my head....

However, driving the pump to pre-prime the oiling system is important, followed by cranking the engine with the spark plugs out for a bit. Then you should get oil to the top. I actually put a mechanical gauge on the main galley so I could watch the pressure in real time. Using a drill on the oil pump achieves up to 60psi, cranking without plugs gets 25psi, and up to 75psi when running.


I already have a mechanical gauge ordered ($15 from amazon; $80 locally...) for that very reason, and bought a large flathead screwdriver the other day that I plan on cutting and chucking into my drill, based on what you did in your thread.

Thanks for the numbers, and double thanks for the rag tip!
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Postby ckhorne » Fri Sep 12, 2014 3:44 pm

I was able to test the oil pressure by using a drill. John's thread showed him fabricating his own oil pump attachment out of steel. I took the lazy way out and just bought the cheapest large flathead screwdriver I could and cut off the handle.

I hooked up my oil pressure gauge and ran up the drill... and... nothing. It took a bit of cussing and head scratching to figure out that the drill had to be in reverse. :doh: I ended up getting ~45 psi. John reported higher when he did his, but since this was a cheap cordless drill and the pressure was directly related to speed, I think 45psi was just a result of that slower speed.

IMG_0918.JPG


At this point, I needed to move it off the engine stand and onto some floor jacks so I could work with the clutch and it's bell housing:

IMG_0919.JPG


First order of business was replacing the brass bushings in the bell housing. I expected this to take 15 minutes or so, and an hour or so later, they were finally in. And the difference was stunning - it's amazing how much play the old bushing had now that the new ones are in place:

IMG_0925.JPG


Finally, it was time to re-attach the bell housing to the engine:

IMG_0926.JPG


Once that was on, then the flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate assembly, and the new throwout bearing all went into place.

I had posted on another thread about my inability to downshift from 3 to 2. I worked with the clutch assembly for a while before re-installing it, made a bunch of measurements, and in the end, decided to leave things alone -they were close to spec, and I didn't want to screw things up worse than what they were before I started...
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Postby RiverPatrol » Fri Sep 12, 2014 3:54 pm

Great progress. Where did you locate the brass bushings?
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Postby ckhorne » Fri Sep 12, 2014 4:06 pm

I also tried adjusting the valves. I followed this thread. However, I don't really understand the instructions. I set the first cylinder to it's highest position, and adjusted valves 1,2,3,6,8,9. But the next set of instructions say to set the #6 cylinder at it's highest position and set the remaining valves. But... when #1 is at TDC, #6 is as well....

Can someone help me?
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Postby faux40 » Fri Sep 12, 2014 4:20 pm

When #1 is at TDC, they are referring to the power stroke -- it's just finished compressing and is about to explode and be jammed back down. At this exact point, #6 is also at the top, but at the end of the exhaust stroke and just about to open the intake and suck in fuel and air. From TDC #1 to TDC #6, you rotate the crank 360 degrees -- at which time #1 will again be at the top but not on the compression stroke. In other words, there are actually two TDCs for each piston with the one generally referred to as "TDC" being the compression stroke version.

Somewhat related, the order in which you adjust the valves is really irrelevant -- Just make sure that any particular valve you are adjusting is completely off the cam lobe. If you watch one pair of valves while turning the engine by hand, you'll see the exhaust valve open/close, then the intake will open/close, then it will wait about a full revolution before the valves move again. Just make sure that for any valve, you're roughly in the middle of that delay window. Planning ahead like the thread promotes will save time (and effort since you'll spin the engine less), but doesn't make the adjustment any better... just don't miss any valves!

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Postby faux40 » Fri Sep 12, 2014 4:22 pm

RiverPatrol wrote:Great progress. Where did you locate the brass bushings?


At bronzebushings.com -- they're really cheap too. About $1.15 each or so.

viewtopic.php?p=21373#p21373

http://www.bronzebushings.com/sae-841-s ... 4-oal.html
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Postby moore_rb » Fri Sep 12, 2014 4:29 pm

ckhorne wrote:I also tried adjusting the valves. I followed this thread. However, I don't really understand the instructions. I set the first cylinder to it's highest position, and adjusted valves 1,2,3,6,8,9. But the next set of instructions say to set the #6 cylinder at it's highest position and set the remaining valves. But... when #1 is at TDC, #6 is as well....

Can someone help me?


Each cylinder has TWO TDC moments - one for intake, one for exhaust. When #1 is TDC on the intake stroke, #6 should be TDC on exhaust stroke, and vice-versa.

so the instruction above mean set #1 at the top of the intake stroke, then adjust the 6 rockers listed. Then turn the engine 360 degrees to set number 6 at TDC on Intake, and adjust the other 6.

NEVER adjust both rockers on the same cylinder when it is at TDC on the exhaust stroke.
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Postby Esteban » Fri Sep 12, 2014 4:35 pm

When #1 is in compression, #6 is in exhaust. Just turn 1 time the engine and now #6 will be at TDC, and #1 in exhaust.

Great progress and nice pictures. Keep them coming!

Edit: Robert was faster. Didn't see it in my phone.

Wait. He has to turn 360 degrees!
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Postby moore_rb » Fri Sep 12, 2014 4:37 pm

faux40 wrote: Just make sure that any particular valve you are adjusting is completely off the cam lobe. If you watch one pair of valves while turning the engine by hand, you'll see the exhaust valve open/close, then the intake will open/close, then it will wait about a full revolution before the valves move again. Just make sure that for any valve, you're roughly in the middle of that delay window.


Yes- the "delay window" John refers to is the period when the lifter is riding on the "base circle" of the cam - and as long as you are sure you're on the base circle, you can adjust any valve, in any order...

this is actually the way I do it, since I am incapable of memorizing firing orders.. they say the memory is the first that goes... :ugeek:
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Postby moore_rb » Fri Sep 12, 2014 4:39 pm

Esteban wrote:
Wait. He has to turn 360 degrees!


You are correct !!!!

now it is my turn to edit... :lol:
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Postby ckhorne » Fri Sep 19, 2014 11:01 am

Wow- I've really fallen behind here - work and family keep taking priority, so the Patrol and posting on the forums keep getting delayed... :oops:

I'm still waiting on getting my transmission back from the shop, so I went ahead and installed the engine - adding the transmission later will probably be easier anyway (I hope). Given the troubles getting it removed, getting it back in was surprisingly easy - it only took about an hour and a half.

IMG_0928.JPG


The biggest problem was the front engine mounts - the new ones made by Then and Now Automotive. I believe the bolts on the top of the mounts were slightly offset from center originally. I had them replace those bolts with new ones since one of mine sheared off during the engine removal (the whole point of having them remade). However, the new mounts had the bolts in the center, meaning that the engine would just barely not fit. After spending an entire evening lifting the engine back up a couple inches and trying small adjustments, I finally drilled out the mounting holes on the engine just slightly, and everything popped in place; Not my first choice, but I don't believe it was enough material moved to make a big difference. Another trip to Ace to get some new hardware, and all the mounts are now good and tight.

Part of the reason that I decided to put the engine back in at that point was that it was much easier to try the starter out with the engine in place. So I hooked up the wires and gave it a try. The good news was that the starter and solenoid fired correctly (remember - all new wiring here!). The bad news was that it didn't turn the engine over... After a brief panic, I realized that the battery has been sitting there for the past several months, used for testing the new electrical setup. So I put it on a battery tender for a day or two. Tried it again, and the starter turns over the engine. Not fast, but should be enough to get things going. :dance:

At this point, I'm still waiting on my water pump to return from Kellog Automotive, from being rebuilt - it should be here in the next couple days. So I've been jumping around with little projects here and there. I still need to get my valve clearances set (thanks for the help!). And I still need to track down someone local who can weld cast iron.

I was working on getting my clutch connectors all hooked back up under the car, and somehow when I went to test it (by just pushing on the clutch), the retainer clip / wire broke on me:

IMG_0930.JPG


I plan on just going down to the hardware store and seeing if I can find a wire that I can bend to match. If anyone has any other suggestions, I'm all ears.

Last night was spent cleaning the transfer case- something that I've put off for more than a month now. Here's a picture a few minutes into it:

IMG_0929.JPG


It's a bummer how much progress has slowed, but at this point, the devil is in the details...
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Postby faux40 » Fri Sep 19, 2014 11:28 am

ckhorne wrote:I'm still waiting on getting my transmission back from the shop, so I went ahead and installed the engine - adding the transmission later will probably be easier anyway (I hope). Given the troubles getting it removed, getting it back in was surprisingly easy - it only took about an hour and a half.

In my humble opinion... Nope. ;-) It's easier to do them together! However, if you use your engine crane from above, installing the trans by itself is not too bad ;-) I pushed the crane in through the open door and it made it oh, so much easier than trying to use a cart or floor jack. Here's my story: viewtopic.php?p=22668#p22668

Here's the sling Bosque used to install his -- He's a rock climber/mountaineer which explains a bunch of what's going on here! That trans is not going anywhere he doesn't want it to! I used motorcycle tie-downs and then worked too!
Image

One of the toughest things for me was lining up the trans and throwout bearing while sliding the monster together -- a royal pain! This last time, admittedly out of the truck, I put the throw out bearing on the transmission's input shaft but left the throwout bearing collar assembly out -- just back the left shaft out as far as it will go to get it out of the way (I actually left that dang shaft out which cause more problems, but that's a different story). The right side shaft will slide all the way out. This way, you only need manage the trans through the clutch disk into the pilot bearing. Once in, you can tuck the throwout bearing collar up and slide the shafts into it. Don't forget to safety wire the bolts with some high strength wire (I used stainless wire), which, by the way, those square-ish bolts don't fit a standard 8-point socket at all. However, they do fit perfectly into the back side of a 1/2" socket extension then a 1/2" 8-point socket fit's perfectly onto the other end of the extension ;-)
2014-09-19-09-23-27.jpg


ckhorne wrote:I was working on getting my clutch connectors all hooked back up under the car, and somehow when I went to test it (by just pushing on the clutch), the retainer clip / wire broke on me:

IMG_0930.JPG


I plan on just going down to the hardware store and seeing if I can find a wire that I can bend to match. If anyone has any other suggestions, I'm all ears.


My local dealer found one for me! If you find the right Nissan parts guy, they may find it.

Good luck!

John
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Postby ckhorne » Fri Sep 19, 2014 12:33 pm

faux40 wrote:In my humble opinion... Nope. ;-) It's easier to do them together! However, if you use your engine crane from above, installing the trans by itself is not too bad ;-) I pushed the crane in through the open door and it made it oh, so much easier than trying to use a cart or floor jack. Here's my story: viewtopic.php?p=22668#p22668


I remember you posting this - I'm going to try the same thing. My other thought was to make a stand/platform for the tranny and xfer case and jack the truck up and then down so they come together. In other words, mate the truck to the drivetrain rather than the other way around. Failing that, your method is my backup plan.... :)

Good tip on the throwout bearing wire!
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Postby moore_rb » Sat Sep 20, 2014 12:12 am

That's what I did- used the cherry picker from above, and floor jack from below... took me about 90 minutes to get my tranny in far enough to get the nuts started and pull it the rest of the way into place.

90 minutes on the engine- wow that has to be a record... :clap: :clap: :clap:


engine bay is looking great !!!!!
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