Minion Missile - 1973 Colombian Patrol Project

Builds, refurbishments, restorations, upgrades

Postby Esteban » Mon Apr 30, 2018 2:41 pm

mad4hws wrote:...One of the advantages of having remote terminals is you can put a trickle charger on them when not in use. I am ordering up the parts for the remote terminals this week. there are a few places that I'm thinking of: 1) engine compartment - but that would mean really long battery cables, 2) outside of seat pedestal on driver's side: most convenient, but the battery compartment is already pretty tight, 3) pax side seat pedestal. Plenty of space to route the cables. or 4) bed, wall to the battery compartment. This is pretty attractive as it is generally out of the way and pretty accessible. I'll let you know how it turns out and document it here. It seems like the parts are pretty available at hot rod shops, marine stores and even amazon...


The engine compartment will be the natural choice. If you place the terminals near the area where the starter is located, you only need a short length of battery cable, since you can tie to the starter post terminal. The ground cable will be the long one.

I have installed on mine a battery cut-off switch with a removable key in that area. Inside the cabin it is at the upper side of the vertical wall of the foot well (passenger side). I always disconnect the battery with this switch when the vehicle is not in use for some time (more than a week). I chose that location for the proximity to the starter in order to avoid added lengths of cable. Adding the remote terminals will be the next step.
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Postby mad4hws » Mon Apr 30, 2018 3:27 pm

I was actually thinking about the cut-off switch as well. Great minds must think alike. I like your idea, maybe I can incorporate the battery cut-off at the same time.
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Postby mad4hws » Tue Aug 21, 2018 7:40 pm

Hi everyone,
long time since I posted to my build thread. so, it needs an update. I sent the '67 axles from the chassis off to Rafael to be rebuilt. the box weighted 880 pounds. First time I used the F250 for real work. So, while those are off getting rebuilt and refurbished, I was thinking about some other things (with a little proding from my friend L60Boerne). I'm thinking of what else could go wrong with this rig and lets get it all taken care of at once. The short list is a) fuel pump, b) water pump, c) gas tank and d) carbuerator.

For the water pump, I was thinking about sending the one off of the '67 to get rebuilt and having it on the shelf "just in case". I called Kelloggautomotive out in arizone and was told that there were two water pumps for the Patrol. I pulled the one off of the '67 engine. the one that is in the Minion Missle is still connected. I'm not sure if they are the same or different. the one off of the '67 has some casting numbers that the one on the other one doesn't - it reads 'E1015'. Does anyone know? I am wondering if these are interchangable - If they are, I'll go ahead and have the one rebuilt. If they aren't, I will pull the one off and send it in to be rebuilt.

thanks everyone.



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Postby Esteban » Tue Aug 21, 2018 9:03 pm

Good to know about your plans. We'll be following your progress.

Regarding the water pumps, they are different internally, but totally interchangeable. Probably the water pump on your 73 is an aftermarket. In any case, somewhere around early 70s the changed the design and instead of two individual bearings, the axle is integral with a single bearing. Kellog is already familiar with the older design, so it might be a better choice to send the 67 water pump. The later water pump was fitted in late 73. It doesn't have a nut in the front of the axle, but rather a retainer ring for height control of the pulley that is pressed.

I am running with a water pump that most probably is manufactured in Colombia. It was purchased there by our member Pancho (no longer with his Patrol). Has no numbers in the casting and I had to grind the body in a couple of places to clear the thermostat housing. Has been in place for around 6k miles.
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Postby mad4hws » Tue Aug 21, 2018 9:19 pm

Thanks Esteban. You are a wealth of Patrol knowledge.
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Postby mad4hws » Sun Aug 26, 2018 6:27 pm

Today #1 daughter and I did a little work on the Patrol, removing a few parts to be refurbished. First up is the Carb. The carb is going to be rebuilt by Carburetor Specialists down in Atlanta. What I am worried about is the linkage. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

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Postby mad4hws » Sun Aug 26, 2018 6:36 pm

We also removed the gas tank. Once we removed it, it actually didn't look so bad. No matter, it's got an appointment tomorrow to be completely gone through. does anyone know the size of the o ring for the fuel sending unit?

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Postby RiverPatrol » Mon Aug 27, 2018 10:14 am

That's some Colombian ingenuity on the linkage. :lol:
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Postby mad4hws » Mon Aug 27, 2018 7:06 pm

Today's update: I swear, I shouldn't be surprised by anything on this piece, but it happens to almost everything I touch. Today it is the brake booster. I decided to take it off and send it in to be rebuilt, just because. Well - take a look at the picture below, more fantastic Colombian engineering. Whoever had this before should be arrested and his welder taken away for life. Ugghh!
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Postby mad4hws » Mon Aug 27, 2018 7:09 pm

Okay, so here's the booster with the master cylinder. It doesn't fit, but they made it fit by cutting off the tabs of the master cylinder. Pretty sure this isn't factory. At this point, I'm considering buying a replacement booster/master cylinder. Has anyone done this with any luck?
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Postby L60Boerne » Tue Aug 28, 2018 7:36 am

Don, PLateaucal is the master of the master cylinder, he can surely give you good advice.
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Postby Esteban » Tue Aug 28, 2018 8:23 am

I would have recommended getting a new combo booster/master cylinder from an American car, but you already have a new master cylinder.

In my case, I have the opposite, a Nissan booster and a Ford master cylinder ($30 any day).

Can you measure the overall diameter of you current booster, so a new one will roughly have the same size and you avoid some body work to the recess done in the fender well. Also, the distance between the mounting holes for the master cylinder. I think that with whatever booster you choose, you'll need to do some new fabrication for mounting it to the body.

I borrowed a picture of your engine bay and lightened it a bit, so others can have an overall idea of your setup:

Minion Missile brake booster.jpg


Another solution could be to install a remote Bendix Hydrovac, connected to the front brake lines only. That way you can install the master cylinder in its natural placement.

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Postby mad4hws » Tue Aug 28, 2018 8:27 am

I don't have a good picture to share (will add one later), but there is a bit of Colombian engineering underneath my hood that I am actually impressed with and which will remain. It is an extension pipe (maybe 1.5" in diamter) that extends from the firewall past the clutch master cylinder and allows for the installation of the brake booster. After looking at it the brake booster, I don't think I'm going to try to save it. Instead, I'm going to save this piece of extension and find a new brake booster with a mated brake master cylinder that can be plumbed to the 4 wheels. I'm not an expert, but it looks like the brake booster that is there is a universal unit, so finding a replacement should be pretty straight forward.

On a separate note, I got a call from my local radiator shop yesterday. I dropped the fuel tank off first thing in the morning thinking that it was going to be a pretty easy clean and rinse. Well, I was surprised again. The guys told me that there were at least 6 layers of paint on the tank. That someone tried to repair it with a varierty of materials, including Epoxy, Bondo and even that rubber paint on stuff that is advertised on TV... Wowsers. So, they are stripping it completely, will braze all of the pin holes and will install a liner. Should be good to go for another 50 years when they are done with it. I also dropped off the radiator that came with the '67 Chassis that I acquired. My current radiator doesn't leak and doesn't have any issues, but it will be nice to have a 100% serviceable unit on the shelf should the need arise.
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Postby mad4hws » Tue Aug 28, 2018 8:32 am

Esteban wrote: Can you measure the overall diameter of you current booster, so a new one will roughly have the same size and you avoid some body work to the recess done in the fender well.


It's 9.5 inches in diameter and 4.5" deep. It is riding against the side of the fender well, so ideally I need to get one that is a bit smaller diameter. I am working with the fine folks at JEGs to see what we can come up with. Yes, although I do have a new master cylinder, I would prefer to have one that mates properly to the booster. I really like the idea of having a booster, so will try to retain that modification and not put the original brake master cylinder back up against the firewall.
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Postby RiverPatrol » Tue Aug 28, 2018 10:21 am

Wow. Just, wow. :|
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