Minion Missile - 1973 Colombian Patrol Project

Builds, refurbishments, restorations, upgrades

Postby mad4hws » Fri May 29, 2020 5:56 pm

Box 1 of 2 showed up from the Show Me state today. So, let me show you what was inside:

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Now what might be a little bit worn to some of you is pure gold to me. The most important thing is that the splines on the inside of the wheel look fantastic. Should mate up beautifully to box #2 when it shows up on Monday. In that time, Ann and I are going to work on filling those cracks and refurbishing the wheel with this stuff: (can you say Ronco? I think I may have seen Billy Mays pitching this as some point.....). I picked up two because there's a lot of voids to fill. We'll see how it works.
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Special shout out to CBlake who answered my APB and offered the wheel, the shaft and the gear in order to get the Minion Missile back on the road.
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Postby mad4hws » Sun May 31, 2020 6:16 pm

Today we started applying the plastifix. The directions first called for a deep cleaning of the wheel with soap and water and denatured alcohol. This turned the wheel sort of gray/white. A lot more cracks were visible once we did this. I'm glad we used the plastifix in stead of epoxy. With the needle applicator, it was able to penetrate really small cracks without having to open them up more with a dremel tool. It's similar to epoxy in that there are two parts to mix together, but it smells much worse - so be sure to be in a well ventilated space. After a couple of hours, we got the big cracks filled. I'm hoping that the epoxy primer paint will fill in a lot of the smaller cracks when we're ready to paint.

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Postby mad4hws » Sun May 31, 2020 6:22 pm

We also got the shaft in today and started getting it cleaned up and ready for its new home. The first thing I did was to test fit it into the Patrol - It fit great, no issues at all.

Interestingly, the replacement shaft is 1 inch longer and narrower than the one it is replacing. So, the steering wheel will be 1" closer to the driver. I also need to order a new firewall grommet to accommodate the narrower shaft. This shaft also has a wire protruding from it, which I understand is for the horn. I didn't think about the turn signal assembly, but I think I need to put the turn signal assembly that goes with this shaft and not use the one I took off of the old shaft. I also need to figure out how to hook-up the horn as it is much different from the newer patrols. In the end, it will be worth it as the older style wheel has much more style than the later ones. :dance:
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Postby jwgreen » Sun May 31, 2020 9:05 pm

Looking good!!! Keep up the good work!! I might have an extra old style turn signal if you want it. I'll dig around for it tomorrow sometime.
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Postby RiverPatrol » Mon Jun 01, 2020 8:57 am

Interesting about the size differences. I didn't even consider the horn and turn signal differences. Adapting the early turn signal assembly might be tricky, the wiring is quite different due to the later models having hazard lights, the hazard lights run through the turn signal assembly. Of course the connectors are entirely different as well.
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Postby Esteban » Mon Jun 01, 2020 7:53 pm

RiverPatrol wrote:Interesting about the size differences. I didn't even consider the horn and turn signal differences. Adapting the early turn signal assembly might be tricky, the wiring is quite different due to the later models having hazard lights, the hazard lights run through the turn signal assembly. Of course the connectors are entirely different as well.


No hazard lights on models sold in South America, so using the early style turn signal shouldn't be an issue.
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Postby mad4hws » Mon Jun 01, 2020 7:58 pm

haha. Good point!

Doesn't much matter though since I did the wiring upgrade. there's not much left of the original wiring.
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Postby RiverPatrol » Mon Jun 01, 2020 8:15 pm

Esteban wrote:
RiverPatrol wrote:Interesting about the size differences. I didn't even consider the horn and turn signal differences. Adapting the early turn signal assembly might be tricky, the wiring is quite different due to the later models having hazard lights, the hazard lights run through the turn signal assembly. Of course the connectors are entirely different as well.


No hazard lights on models sold in South America, so using the early style turn signal shouldn't be an issue.


Thank you for the knowledge, Esteban!

Hard to believe something smells worse than epoxy. :lol:
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Postby mad4hws » Tue Jun 02, 2020 7:16 am

RiverPatrol wrote:Hard to believe something smells worse than epoxy. :lol:


Ann says it smells like the orthodontist and the cement that is used to attach braces to teeth. Or, worse, the mix that is used to make dental impressions... whatever it is, it doesn't bring pleasant memories... Maybe I'll send in a suggestion to add in some bubble gum essence to make it better. Worse yet, when you sand it, it starts to smell all over again.....

As I'm sanding through this stuff, the stench seems to be worth it. It's really difficult to tell the difference between the plastifix and the original wheel material. I would definately recommend this to anyone who is doing a similar repair to hard plastic. I thought I would need more of it, but the one kit is plenty - I don't think I'll use half of it - which is saying something given the amount of material that was missing from the wheel when I started.
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Postby Edgar » Tue Jun 02, 2020 1:46 pm

I look forward to seeing the final result. Please include pics when done.
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Postby mad4hws » Tue Jun 09, 2020 5:01 pm

here's the update on the wheel. that plastifix stuff works really well. I got all of the cracks filled and sanded. My original plan was to paint the wheel once that was done; however, I kinda like it the way it is. the filled in areas have a story to tell - and this story would be lost if I painted over it... so, we're going to leave as is. If we don't like the look later, we can paint whenever we want. Still needs a little sanding and buffing, but she's going to look good.

the wheel installation will have to wait until the steering column/gearbox is painted. The plan is to paint with epoxy primer, then add a few coats of 2k urethane primer, followed by the Daytona Yellow basecoat and finally topped off with clear. This will give me a little practice with the paint gun in a not so conspicuous spot... More to follow on that front next time.

7096
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Postby Esteban » Tue Jun 09, 2020 8:58 pm

That wheel repair looks great, and I like your idea of leaving it unpainted.

What did you use for sanding it, or what grades?
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Postby mad4hws » Thu Jun 11, 2020 6:20 am

Sanding was pretty unremarkable. I knocked down the high spots with the dremel, and used 150 grit to do the heavy work. The wheel itself had lots of micro cracks in it, so it too got the 150 grit treatment throughout. then it was onto 220. I think I can stop at 220.

Last night I got the epoxy primer on the steering gear/shaft. It's raining over the next few days and since I'm painting outside, I'm stuck on other things. I'm still working on finalizing the wiring. The gauges aren't working and after a back and forth with Justin, I discovered a big oversight when I replaced my wiring harness. I neglected to put in a voltage regulator. It sounds like the voltage to the fuel gauge should be 9v. This regulator seems like it would work - appreciate any thoughts from the forum. I'm hoping that I didn't burn out my fuel gauge as a result of this oversight... :pray:

https://www.amazon.com/Magnolian-Effici ... 298&sr=8-3
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Postby plateaucal » Thu Jun 11, 2020 10:31 am

It seems to be a regular question, but my Chilton's wiring diagram shows the fuel and temp. gauges being fed by the regulator. Is it the same on all years? IDK, but that is the way it is on my 69.

Nine volts does seem to be the number to shoot for. Gauge regulators were also used on a lot of older cars, however, it is hard to find the specific voltage output.

IMO, doubt you hurt the gauge.
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Postby mad4hws » Thu Jun 11, 2020 11:55 am

Thanks. I'll give it a shot - pretty cheap if it's a total bust. nothing ventured nothing gained.
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