Minion Missile - 1973 Colombian Patrol Project

Builds, refurbishments, restorations, upgrades

Postby RiverPatrol » Tue Jul 14, 2020 7:54 pm

...or one could be cut from another frame...
Beyond any hope for intervention

Image
RiverPatrol Offline

User avatar
Administrator
Administrator
 
Posts: 6391
Images: 768
Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2012 10:42 am
Has thanked: 4773 times
Been thanked: 1468 times
Location: Temecula, CA

Postby mad4hws » Tue Jul 14, 2020 8:27 pm

Thanks Esteban.

I know a very capable metal fabricator. I'm going to give him a call tomorrow. Would pretty easy to cut out a section for him to replicate and then just weld it into place. when I cut it out, i'll need to support the frame - keep it from moving around until the new member is in.
mad4hws Offline


I love driving my Patrol!
I love driving my Patrol!
 
Posts: 518
Images: 292
Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2016 12:41 pm
Has thanked: 153 times
Been thanked: 301 times
Location: Connecticut, USA

Postby Esteban » Tue Jul 14, 2020 10:08 pm

Good to know about the fabricator!

You can always weld temporarily an steel angle prior to removing the rear cross member.
Owner of the same Patrol since 1967
Esteban Offline

User avatar
Helping others revive their Patrol…
Helping others revive their Patrol…
 
Posts: 2410
Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2013 11:28 am
Location: Baltimore, MD
Has thanked: 3661 times
Been thanked: 1003 times
Location: Baltimore, MD

Postby moore_rb » Sat Jul 18, 2020 8:59 am

Esteban wrote:You can always weld temporarily an steel angle prior to removing the rear cross member.


:text-yeahthat:
ImageImageImageImage

L-R:
White 65 Hardtop L60-3-00617 (undergoing restoration)
Red 65 hardtop 4L60-002565 (scrapped for parts)
66 Hardtop "El-Bondo Patrol", L60-00511 (sold June2020)
Blue 67 Hardtop (sold March1997)
Green 62 Softtop L60-2-00504 (undergoing restoration)
moore_rb Offline

User avatar
Administrator
Administrator
 
Posts: 2414
Images: 70
Joined: Wed Jul 03, 2013 11:49 pm
Location: Arizona
Has thanked: 780 times
Been thanked: 1191 times
Location: Arizona

Postby mad4hws » Sat Jul 18, 2020 4:05 pm

Hi guys,
so, working on this slowly. started pulling back the paint and surprise surprise found some more quality welding:
7146

This craftsmanship was covered in a healthy layer of bondo. Wonder what other surprises this baby has in store for me?

Does anyone know what gauge steel the body is? I'm thinking 16 gauge, but maybe 18. The couple of panels in the back don't appear to be complex. Flat with 90 degree bends. I think I might be able to handle them with a little practice.
mad4hws Offline


I love driving my Patrol!
I love driving my Patrol!
 
Posts: 518
Images: 292
Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2016 12:41 pm
Has thanked: 153 times
Been thanked: 301 times
Location: Connecticut, USA

Postby Esteban » Sat Jul 18, 2020 4:20 pm

Interesting to say the least. The bondo in that area was both in the fiberglass and the metal from looking at previous pictures. Maybe a byproduct of a fender bender?


The sheet metal in the Patrol is 18 gauge, and that’s what I used. I believe member 50car found the same.

Do you have the half doors that will go there? If so, you’ll hace to uncoverer the captive nuts for the hinges.
Owner of the same Patrol since 1967
Esteban Offline

User avatar
Helping others revive their Patrol…
Helping others revive their Patrol…
 
Posts: 2410
Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2013 11:28 am
Location: Baltimore, MD
Has thanked: 3661 times
Been thanked: 1003 times
Location: Baltimore, MD

Postby mad4hws » Sat Jul 18, 2020 8:35 pm

Esteban wrote:Do you have the half doors that will go there? If so, you’ll hace to uncoverer the captive nuts for the hinges.


Thanks Esteban. I have removed the cover plates that I think you were referring to. they were spot welded in and came out pretty easily. There are no cage nuts behind them, so those have to be installed. The doors for the hardtop didn't use the same hinges (see pics above). there are some holes that need to be welded in. Did you end up installing the cage nuts on yours? If so, any tips/tricks? I have the replica doors from Raul that will look fantastic when installed.

I don't think this was a fender bender. I think it was just how they attached the metal roof. No worries though, we'll get her fixed up in no time. Thanks for the response on the sheet metal. 18 gauge will be easier to work with than the 16 gauge. As I get into this, I will likely have some more questions for the forum or may ask for some reference pictures for certain areas. Thanks in advance for your continued encouragement.
mad4hws Offline


I love driving my Patrol!
I love driving my Patrol!
 
Posts: 518
Images: 292
Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2016 12:41 pm
Has thanked: 153 times
Been thanked: 301 times
Location: Connecticut, USA

Postby Esteban » Sat Jul 18, 2020 9:24 pm

mad4hws wrote:There are no cage nuts behind them, so those have to be installed. The doors for the hardtop didn't use the same hinges (see pics above). there are some holes that need to be welded in. Did you end up installing the cage nuts on yours? If so, any tips/tricks? I have the replica doors from Raul that will look fantastic when installed.


I did an intermediate approach for the captive nuts. They ended up being not captive but welded to a plate that’s loose inside. A bit tricky but allows for a complete alignment of the doors. As they say, a picture is worth... so I have to do a thread on the repairs done on mine. Now the clock is ticking. :oops:

I also purchased a lot of nuts and bolts from McMaster Carr, and some you have to buy a whole package of 50. Among them are nuts aimed to be welded (although with an spot weld process) However, they’re more meaty and better for the MIG welder. I can send you whatever you might need. Will prepare a picture with sizes and locations. The bolts for the hinges are stainless steel.
Owner of the same Patrol since 1967
Esteban Offline

User avatar
Helping others revive their Patrol…
Helping others revive their Patrol…
 
Posts: 2410
Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2013 11:28 am
Location: Baltimore, MD
Has thanked: 3661 times
Been thanked: 1003 times
Location: Baltimore, MD

Postby mad4hws » Mon Jul 20, 2020 6:31 pm

Thanks Esteban. Would love to see an example of what you did. I have spent more at McMaster than I care to admit here. In addition to nuts/bolts/screws used on the Patrol, they also have a bunch of really small stuff in various materials that is super handy for the competition rocketry. I have some stuff in my cart currently, but would love to see your list to see if I need to add other stuff before checking out.
mad4hws Offline


I love driving my Patrol!
I love driving my Patrol!
 
Posts: 518
Images: 292
Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2016 12:41 pm
Has thanked: 153 times
Been thanked: 301 times
Location: Connecticut, USA

Postby Esteban » Mon Jul 20, 2020 8:19 pm

I sent you an email with my spreadsheet of the bolts and nuts used (not for the purist :twisted: )

For a workaround of the captive nuts for the hinges (rear doors), I used "steel weld nuts" attached to a 2mm steel plate. This plate can move up or down to allow adjustments of each hinge.

This is the description of a typical steel wed nut, from McMaster Carr: Weld these nuts to flat and uneven uncoated steel surfaces for a strong permanent hold. A collar pilot assists alignment and prevents welding spatter from getting into threads.

These nuts are also bigger than the typical one that will be required for the bolt, so it helps a bit in the welding.

Steel Weld Nuts for Hinges.JPG


The tricky part is keeping them in place. For me it was easier, since the rear panels were not attached yet, so you can maneuver them somehow. The space is tight. But the use of magnets help a lot (tip: magnets from an old hard drive are extremely powerful and will help you keep the plate from moving). But the biggest trick was to attach the bolts without the hinge, since you don't have to worry about keeping too many pieces in place at the same time. Once you are able to put at least one bolt, you can then place the hinge and the other bolt loosely. Once that's done, you remove the other bolt and complete the process. The only drawback of this method for the captive nuts, is that if you ever need to take the hinges, you have to remember this procedure, in order to keep the backing plate in place, and not fall into the cavity.

Attaching Hinges.jpg
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Owner of the same Patrol since 1967
Esteban Offline

User avatar
Helping others revive their Patrol…
Helping others revive their Patrol…
 
Posts: 2410
Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2013 11:28 am
Location: Baltimore, MD
Has thanked: 3661 times
Been thanked: 1003 times
Location: Baltimore, MD

Postby mad4hws » Tue Jul 21, 2020 7:18 am

Thanks Esteban. Very helpful.

Here's a picture of the reproduction door and hinges from Raul. I don't have an original to compare to, but looks like a pretty faithful reproduction
7155

Next is a picture of the rear panels of my patrol. You can see where the hinges for the Colombian hardtop barn doors were attached. I'll fill those holes up with weld. There are no holes for the new doors, so your pictures are a good reference. There is a plate on the backside that is tack welded into place. It is pretty easy to remove once those tack welds are broken (look close and you can see where I drilled through the tack welds). Esteban, could I ask you to take a few measurements for the hinges - top and bottom? I need to strip all of the paint and bondo from this rear panel. that will be fun.....

7156
mad4hws Offline


I love driving my Patrol!
I love driving my Patrol!
 
Posts: 518
Images: 292
Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2016 12:41 pm
Has thanked: 153 times
Been thanked: 301 times
Location: Connecticut, USA

Postby Esteban » Tue Jul 21, 2020 10:23 am

By the look of the doors and the hinges, they look original to me, and they probably are. A clue will be if the doors have the hinge captive nuts there (they're are not adjustable there) All Patrols imported to Colombia probably came with the half doors included, and maybe even the canvas top. They promoted the local industry with the fiberglass tops.

I will measure the hinge position on mine later today.

By the way, and nothing related with your post is the fact that using Tapatalk in the phone sometimes doesn't show all the pictures that are posted. It happened to me with this one, and had to go to my laptop (I'm using the free version in my phone, and it has become increasingly annoying with the multiple steps you have to do)
Owner of the same Patrol since 1967
Esteban Offline

User avatar
Helping others revive their Patrol…
Helping others revive their Patrol…
 
Posts: 2410
Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2013 11:28 am
Location: Baltimore, MD
Has thanked: 3661 times
Been thanked: 1003 times
Location: Baltimore, MD

Postby mad4hws » Wed Jul 22, 2020 7:24 am

I have only ever uploaded pictures using my computer. Since I am putting these pictures in a separate project album, I need to download anyway. the extra steps are therefore not that big of a deal for me. But, if you figure out an easy way to do it - I'd be willing to try.

also, no need to measure your hinges. Raul has pre-drilled holes on the doors, so I can just get measurements from those. Thanks Esteban.
mad4hws Offline


I love driving my Patrol!
I love driving my Patrol!
 
Posts: 518
Images: 292
Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2016 12:41 pm
Has thanked: 153 times
Been thanked: 301 times
Location: Connecticut, USA

Postby mad4hws » Mon Jul 27, 2020 5:47 pm

started stripping paint. what a PITA! to get to where I have gotten, I have used a wire wheel on a grinder. It works, but man it's a lot of work. As the type who generally avoids anything that resembles the four letter W word, I decided to invest in the Eastwood SCT. That should make quick work of most of the paint/rust, but it's on back-order so will take a few weeks to get here. I'm slammed with work work, so that's okay.

So, interesting observation today. I have my home office set-up in the garage, next to the Patrol, during this COVID debacle. As it turns out, it's the best room in the house - it has lots of room, lots of light and is pretty well insulated from all the crazy kid noise. Today, as I was day dreaming and not working I was looking at the rear of the Patrol, something didn't quite look right. The rear passenger side panel was welded in crooked. The result is that the barn door gap is a whopping 3/4" wider on the top as compared to the bottom. I have never really welded before, so I'm trying to take my time. In order to address this issue, I think I can leverage my woodworking skills to work to square this panel up. breaking the welds won't be too bad - they' big and ugly, not the spot welding variety, but thankfully there's only 3 of them to concern myself with. My plan is to get this panel squared up and the barn doors attached/aligned. Once I do that, I can work on replacing the rusty top rail and the ugly welds on the side next to the gas filler cap. Now I just need to summon the courage to cut....

7174
mad4hws Offline


I love driving my Patrol!
I love driving my Patrol!
 
Posts: 518
Images: 292
Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2016 12:41 pm
Has thanked: 153 times
Been thanked: 301 times
Location: Connecticut, USA

Postby plateaucal » Mon Jul 27, 2020 8:27 pm

Have you considered paint removing chemicals. These types of paint strippers are called aircraft remover.
plateaucal Offline


I love driving my Patrol!
I love driving my Patrol!
 
Posts: 789
Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2014 8:59 am
Has thanked: 216 times
Been thanked: 531 times
Location: Colorado

PreviousNext

Return to Projects

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests