my 1967 patina project build

Builds, refurbishments, restorations, upgrades

Postby rdarnell » Sat Feb 22, 2020 11:04 am

I found this video to be the most informative for the rope seal install. I wish the rear main cap for our patrols were that easy to work with. Both engines I took apart had a very snug fit to say the least.

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+ ... SfoLaYDw32
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Postby Esteban » Sat Feb 22, 2020 11:23 am

Thanks for the video. Rather long but with good tips. I think this is probably the most stressful part of the assembly.

Please keep posting more pictures!
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Postby rdarnell » Sat Feb 22, 2020 4:59 pm

Well my plan was to take more photos but this thing is fighting me all the way! Finally got the rope gasket to a point that I think it is in all the way and put caps on. All are loose with only the rear bolts snug I cannot turn the crank. If I loosen them a little I can barely rotate with a 24 inch wrench on the pulley nut. Think I am done for the day, going to have my father swing by tomorrow and try to figure it out. He is a retired machinist and diesel mechanic, so hopefully he can shed some light on it.
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Postby RiverPatrol » Sat Feb 22, 2020 6:19 pm

That has ben the typical experience, once you get the rope seal in and bolt things down the crank is nearly impossible to turn manually. But that is the correct procedure. Anything less and it will leak.
Beyond any hope for intervention

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Postby rdarnell » Sun Feb 23, 2020 3:14 pm

Round 2 has gone much better. I think the rope seals the came with my gasket set were too thick. A 24 inch 3/4 drive ratchet would barely move it. There looked to be way too much seal protruding out and it looked fully bedded. We pulled the crank back out and was looking at a set of chevy ropes, fel-pro bs12173 that another member mentioned, when I remembered I had bought a gasket set back in 2017 on ebay. Dug the out and right from first appearance the looked nicer.
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The little piece is a scrap from the first ones. It is thicker and does not compress on sides much. The second set and the chevy ones both have a little give on the sides to help get it into the slot. I used my thumb to start it in the slot and then used pliers to squeeze side and fully bed into the slot.
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The one on top is the first seal, the second better fitting is the lower one
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Got the mains torqued down starting in center working my way to the ends in three steps increasing torque after each pass.
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Postby mdawg4x4 » Mon Feb 24, 2020 12:53 pm

moore_rb wrote:I just noticed the pic of your super swampers...!

Coolest

Tires

Ever.

But Noisy.... Noise----EEEEEEE.

If you enjoy pretending that you're the pilot of a B17 as you roll down the road, you are gonna LOVE those tires. But off-road, they are like tank-tracks.


I beg to differ. I think the N78, P78, and Q78 Gateway Buckshot Mudders are the best ever! But I am biased, because they were supposidly developed right here in Mississippi for the delta farmers,,,and since the molds were sold off by Gateway a few years back, and Gateway bought had few sets imported back in a few years ago, I bought a set of P78s.
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63 Nissan Patrol project, 1967 Nissan Patrol, 2012 Nissan Xterra (daughter's), 2017 Jeep JKUR, 1998 Jeep TJ
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Postby moore_rb » Mon Feb 24, 2020 1:52 pm

mdawg4x4 wrote:I beg to differ. I think the N78, P78, and Q78 Gateway Buckshot Mudders are the best ever! But I am biased, because they were supposidly developed right here in Mississippi for the delta farmers,,,and since the molds were sold off by Gateway a few years back, and Gateway bought had few sets imported back in a few years ago, I bought a set of P78s.


Well the tread patterns are so similar, that I guess it all comes down to who has the cooler name for their tire:

"Super Swamper" vs. "Buckshot Mudder"


Hmmm... It may just be a tie. :lol:
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L-R:
White 65 Hardtop L60-3-00617 (undergoing restoration)
Red 65 hardtop 4L60-002565 (scrapped for parts)
66 Hardtop "El-Bondo Patrol", L60-00511 (Restored, then sold June2020)
Blue 67 Hardtop (sold March1997)
Green 62 Softtop L60-2-00504 (undergoing restoration)
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Postby rdarnell » Mon Feb 24, 2020 2:02 pm

I looked at getting a set of the buckshot mudders but the price was close to $1000 so I went with the super swampers. I also looked at the Original Swamper from 1968 that they offer also but it is a special order only and I am sure that is represented in the price. Not sure which was first but they do look very similar.

https://www.intercotire.com/tire/118
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Postby rdarnell » Sat Feb 29, 2020 10:47 pm

Today I had a little time to get the rings on the pistons and the pistons installed. I checked the ring grooves on the pistons and found one to have a small nick that caused a tight spot so U used my ring groove tool to clean it up.
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The pistons have a F on the side near the wrist pin that signifies front. The rod caps have match numbers on them that will be facing the cam side of the engine.
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The compression rings usually have a mark that identifies which side is the top. At first I did not think these rings had that mark but I finally noticed the little 100 size on them. only the 1st and 2nd compression rings have that mark. The oil ring has two thin scraper rings that go one each side of the oil ring.
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Then I used my ring compressor and then tapped the pistons in with the wood handle of a hammer.
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And then torqued the rod cap nuts.
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The "Nissan Engine Model P Service Manual" was a little light on detail so I purchased a "TCM Shop Manual" for the PPU240 engine. It provided a little better info. I have scanned and attached a few pages from that manual below.

PPU240 engine manual.pdf


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Postby Esteban » Sat Feb 29, 2020 11:13 pm

Excellent details of the process. Textbook quality. Thanks!

The pictures are great as always, and the added bonus of the scanned manual, even better. :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
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