1969 Patrol, Take 2: Action!

Builds, refurbishments, restorations, upgrades

Postby yitzac1990 » Wed Aug 28, 2019 4:49 pm

ahh, good info! I never would of thought a japanese company in the 60s to use SAE hardware haha.

Question: for when I reassemble my axle shafts, what is the correct order of all the hardware? my axle shafts each had different order of parts when I took them apart before taking them to the machine shop. I am talking about the assembly of the collar/spacer, lock washer, nut, and bearing. Does it go...

axle shaft -> collar -> through the bearing -> lock washer -> nut

OR

axle shaft -> through the bearing -> collar -> lock washer -> nut

OR

axle shaft -> through the bearing -> lock washer -> nut -> collar
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Postby Esteban » Wed Aug 28, 2019 9:10 pm

yitzac1990 wrote:ahh, good info! I never would of thought a japanese company in the 60s to use SAE hardware haha.

Question: for when I reassemble my axle shafts, what is the correct order of all the hardware? my axle shafts each had different order of parts when I took them apart before taking them to the machine shop. I am talking about the assembly of the collar/spacer, lock washer, nut, and bearing. Does it go...

axle shaft -> collar -> through the bearing -> lock washer -> nut

OR

axle shaft -> through the bearing -> collar -> lock washer -> nut

OR

axle shaft -> through the bearing -> lock washer -> nut -> collar


The first choice is the correct.

axle shaft -> collar -> through the bearing -> lock washer -> nut

You can take a look at a parts diagram online here:

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/nissan/pa ... /rear-axle

Image

The parts there go in the followin order
19 SHAFT-REAR AXLE
18 SEAL-GREASE HUB (outer) (if you changed)
25 SPACER-AXLE BRG
26 BRG WHEEL
27 WASHER-LOCK
28 NUT-LOCK,REAR AXLE

You'll have to follow the procedure of adjusting the free play for the rear axle in the manual, by adjusting the number of the big shims (#5 in that image). Because the axles are rubbing slightly inside the differential, they wear a little over time, so normally you have to take out shims during the adjusting.

A couple of versions of the Service Manuals are in the Patrolabilia section of the forum.

Before I forget, how did the new locking washer and nut are? Please post some pictures and the place where you ordered them.
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Postby yitzac1990 » Thu Aug 29, 2019 4:46 pm

thank you for the info, this is great!

for the new axle nuts and lock washers, I havent received the hardware yet. But here are links to where I ordered from exactly:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Lock-Washe ... 2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/N-08-Locknut-1 ... 2749.l2649

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D8 ... UTF8&psc=1

I couldnt find the LH thread nut on ebay, so I had to spend a bit extra on it...
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Postby yitzac1990 » Fri Aug 30, 2019 1:21 pm

so, just to be 100% sure that I assemble this correctly, this is the correct order here? (Yes I cut the backing plate down)

Image

Also, bad news on the front brakes...the 4runner rotor inner "hat" diameter is considerably smaller than the Patrols front hub, so I will need to find a bigger rotor. BIgger rotor may mean a bigger caliper as well. Back to square 1 on the front side :(
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Postby Esteban » Fri Aug 30, 2019 2:00 pm

Sorry to hear about the rotors!

Regarding the rear axle, it looks correct. Could be the angle of the picture but it looks like the bearing nut needs reversing so the chamfered edge faces the lock washer.
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Postby yitzac1990 » Fri Aug 30, 2019 2:09 pm

Esteban wrote:...so the chamfered edge faces the lock washer.


interesting....when I took the axle shafts apart, the flat side of the OEM nuts were against the lock washer. I figured I would put it back on the same way....do you know how its supposed to be?
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Postby Esteban » Fri Aug 30, 2019 2:35 pm

The 1978 Service Manual has this note:

Notes: a. Be careful to place faced side of nut to washer side, so that washer is not damaged.

Don't have a clue about what that note means with "faced side of nut"

I guess the best thing is for you is to look at how the washer interfaces with the nut and refer that back to us. Maybe the flat face as you have will allow a whole teeth of the washer to be bent fully onto the nut. Doing the other way around might leave a portion of the teeth unbent (no secure). I just found some pictures of my axle, and I have the chamfered edge towards the lock washer. Help!

On the other hand, why have the chamfered edge on the nut if it's going to do nothing. Might as well fabricate a totally squared nut.

On pictures of mine, I have the chamfered edge towards the lock washer, but that axle has had the bearings changed a few times.
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Postby yitzac1990 » Fri Aug 30, 2019 3:19 pm

the only reason I can see for a chamfered edge, pointing away from the lock washer, is to allow for room between itself and the axle housing. SImilar to this:

Image

where a "squared" nut wouldnt fit. But, if you say yours is installed with the chamfer towards the lock washer and it all still fits, then maybe the above situation just doesnt apply. The only thing that really has me wanting to put the flat side towards the washer, is that is a bigger surface area of the nut, which will allow for more strength against the bearing. I would just have to hammer the lock washer flat so it doesnt interfere with the nut.
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Postby yitzac1990 » Thu Sep 05, 2019 7:27 am

well i just ordered new shocks, shock boots, steering damper, front rubber brake lines, and front rotors. I went with 2002 Rodeo rotors this time, as I saw another guy on the forum use these with success. We will see how everything goes!
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Postby yitzac1990 » Mon Sep 09, 2019 3:16 pm

can anyone point me to some instructions for rear axle shaft shim installation? or tell me how to measure it all out correctly? When I took them out to be modified for the brake swap, there was 1 shim on one side, and 3 shims on the other. something tells me that may not be right haha.
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Postby yitzac1990 » Tue Sep 10, 2019 7:42 am

Well I think I figured out the shims. I wound up having to use 3 shims on each side to get the play down to a minimum, but All I had were 6 shims total anyways, so it will have to work. This is the assembly of the new axle shaft nut and lock washer. After cleaning the threads of the shaft up a bit, it went pretty well. I got the nut on snug, but not too tight, and then bent a tab up into one of the slots.

Image

This allowed me to start mocking up the rear brakes! Here the caliper is not bolted on or anything, just sitting there, to get an idea of how it will look:

Image

Image

I also welded on front shock mounts and got my new shocks on:

Image

I did the rear shock mounts and shocks as well, but didnt get a picture of them. And here is a shot of my custom high steer setup:

Image

The only problem with it is, the "socket" on the steering arm hits the tire on the wheels I have. I put the wheel directly onto the hub for the time being with no rotor or anything, so it may get spaced out a bit more, but this will be something I need to check for sure.
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Postby Esteban » Tue Sep 10, 2019 8:08 am

Glad you figured out about the rear axle shims and free play. I was about to write something when I saw your post.

Rear Axle Free Play: (0.002" to 0.006") [0.05 to 0.15mm]

[b]Caution:[/b] The 1978 Service Manual has an incorrect number for the free play on page RA-7, and at the end of the process, on page RA-8 they put the correct number!

The progress you're making looks great. You work fast as well! :clap: :clap: :clap: The disk brake conversion looks at home in the pictures.

The only thing that I'm not totally convinced is the extension that you welded for the steering link, but I don't have a clue if there's some other way to do it.
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Postby yitzac1990 » Tue Sep 10, 2019 8:18 am

about the steering, I couldn't think of another way to do it either. Its definitely strong though. the vertical piece is 1.25" solid steel round bar, and the top horizontal piece is 0.8" thick, about 2.75" wide by 1.4" deep. its all pretty beefy!
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Postby mdawg4x4 » Tue Sep 10, 2019 12:35 pm

Your overload spring is resting on the spring clamp? Maybe moves off the clamp and onto the second leaf when sitting on the axles and not suspended?
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Postby yitzac1990 » Tue Sep 10, 2019 2:03 pm

mdawg4x4 wrote:Your overload spring is resting on the spring clamp? Maybe moves off the clamp and onto the second leaf when sitting on the axles and not suspended?


the springs were all done by a PO...so im not sure what was used or why....meh
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