So one thing led to another

[RiverPatrol]

Lots of good progress there.

[PetrolPatrol]

Why do something once when you can do it twice and take 10x longer? The past few months have been spent going back over things I've already done but that I wasn't pleased with, so progress is still agonizingly slow.

Last time I updated the engine was in, but I couldn't get the thing to line up, so out it came.

This time it got a fresh coat of paint. Also stripped and repainted the oil pan as I didn't like how it had turned out previously.

Engine Painted.jpg

Now that I'd done that twice I purchased an engine hoist leveler to try to get the engine straightened out as I was installing it, but that only worked so well as the engine still listed like the Titanic regardless of how I arranged it. The second problem was the engine wouldn't reach the mounts when the hoist was positioned in the 2 ton pin. Moved it to the 1.5 ton position for more reach and wouldn't you know, my ceiling is too low for it to lift high enough thanks to the engine leveler. After much swearing, failing, flailing, and beer I can say the engine is fully in and bolted down. I've only ever installed one other engine but that was an absolute cake walk in comparison to this truck.

With that done I turned to the intake and exhaust manifold and got those cleaned up and painted to match the engine. Also installed all new freeze plugs since two of mine were the universal kind and why be lazy.

Manifolds.jpg

One unfortunate bit is the hardened washers that go to the manifolds were incomplete. One of the POs had used a few stacks of normal washers to clamp them down instead. It worked, but I'd like to have something a bit more proper on there if anyone has a lead. I've purchased two sets from Amazon and when I go to the local auto parts store they can never help w/o a make and model.

New exhaust is ready to go as well. Got an o2 sensor bung welded on so I can get the engine dialed in once it's (I hope) running again one day. Still deciding if I want to do EFI and try that Autolite 1100 kit, but not sure I want to spend the money. Also not sure where I'll put the gauge as I hate the idea of cutting up the dash, but that's for future me.

Exhaust.jpg

Keeping up with the theme of doing everything multiple times. The front axle, brakes, and hubs got another go around. Again I wasn't quite please with the job I had done prior and wanted to do better, so now I'm even faster at taking everything apart. Of course you can barely tell the difference, but hopefully it'll prove worthwhile down the road. Fun fact about these tires! They collect nails like a 10 year old collects Pokémon cards.

Front Axle.jpg

So now I'm finally one step away from a rolling chassis. Just need to redo my drag link, install that, and then bolt up the fresh axle work on the truck.

Drag Link.jpg

Of course, having done so much twice I'm also thinking of some things I didn't do very well in the back, so that'll come apart as well to get redone, but maybe I can update in another six months.

Last thing - I read that GM part # 14069600 works as the reverse light switch and threads right in. It absolutely does not for me. Not sure if there's a difference between the 69s and earlier years or if there are multiple parts with the same number, but it doesn't work in my truck. If anyone knows of one that does fit though I'd love a suggestion.

GM part 14069600.jpg

[RiverPatrol]

Imagine putting the engine in with the body still on.

'69 was the first year that had a reverse light so there were no earlier switches. I'm not positive but I think they were universal throughout the Datsun line. I do know the same switch was used for the 4wd light in later models. The only thing I'm unsure of is the threads. That being said, this is probably your best bet: https://www.ebay.com/itm/175228463673?f ... R_DLw53qYQ

[zed]

Here we go again... putting metric threads on a standard thread Patrol

This may be good ole standard thread, but I would confirm with seller before buying:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/262547430684?hash=item3d210bdd1c:g:U58AAMXQ9otTjyXa&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8B%2FL1%2FPLmekZyRQJVfanH5DCDSRnOna6B7Vcch2av%2FV2tsxKKRoIuWnuBEy3%2FaoeA1jiqAXjv3UJAfvLqjDwkD9kKVT18BFAuU6%2FDMCKeUsxpakSTFnknOjfMCBidTtKJiZSzLfjDuBWv7TV3fbw9K4nqZayCxEa9QpP03f6%2F2h2gnRQQKDOaUWQd9qLQwv%2Byr%2FLxQgqM16c1jOX%2F%2B5zn3Do8NLewIFmPO3hna6thwcnh5F5KQk7GB21sJGOhDmN1jGyC5VAm5%2B7jLdOBp80PH9MBgF2vsYtyy3f%2B4q0mRDLnSt8qCoFSCLGLEEvKPNx7g%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6SpkajqYQ

Keith

[PetrolPatrol]

Imagine putting the engine in with the body still on.

I'd absolutely get help for that then! I'd also have had to move the truck out of the garage, so I'm glad that's not the case.

Unfortunately, neither of those reverse switches work. They're14MM fine thread and the switch needs to be 5/8 fine thread

[RiverPatrol]

I'd rethread the switch then. It's not like it needs to secure anything, just stay in the hole.

[Flaggoni]

I considered modifying some available 14 mm switches a few years ago.
But the 14mm is already about 2 mm smaller than the 5/8 hole. That would require a VERY thin-walled threaded bushing. My 68 1/2 has the correct switch from my 69 parts Patrol, but I have a spare trans and a bunch of 14 mm switches (from forktrucks) to mess with. I may experiment with JB weld and a 14mm spark plug and mold-release agent to see if it’s possible to cast-in-place a threaded adapter bushing.
Mild Bill

[PetrolPatrol]

The truck sitting on her own weight!

Rolling Chassis.jpg

No leaks, it rolls, stops if I use the hand brake, and steers!

One thing I was waiting on was trying to figure out the driveshaft situation. Removing the old U-Joints ruined them and there aren't any replacements. I know some have mentioned Toyota U-Joints and then grinding them down, but I didn't like that idea. I tried heat, cold, took them to a couple of shops, but nothing/nobody could do it. So I just had entirely new driveshafts made with easily replaced parts.

Drive Shafts.jpg

Now uses Dana/Spicer 1350X non-greaseable joints mounted to 3-28-777 Yokes. The main difference between these and the stock ones is basically the bore size for the joints, so we were all pleasantly surprised.

Sadly, in my gusto to clean everything I fracked up the steering box fill cap. It was covered in dirt, grease, and grime, and I didn't realize it was a plastic material until it was too late.

Steering Cap.jpg

Need to find a replacement for that now

Next up I got the exhaust mounted up to see how well the shop did. All told, they did well considering the truck wasn't in their possession, just the old rusty exhaust. What I'm still not sure about is the exhaust strap that goes underneath the passenger side door. The shop cut it off and, though I have it hanging there, it's not doing anything. Is one really needed?

Rolling Chassis w Exhaust.jpg

Super minor, but while I was in there getting things bolted up I fixed the air filter mounting. Prior to this I had a long screw with a few bolts & a washer for clearance going down the top into the carburetor. Needless to say, it looked like crap and I never liked it. So now both the carb & air filter side are wingnut mounted and the screw comes out the top like it should.

I also cleaned up the Alternator mount now that that everything was bolted up. That too is something I never liked, so I cut it, welded it back shorter, bent it into shape, and tidied it up a little.

Alternator Mount.jpg

Since I don't care about originality much I also went ahead and swapped the brake system to AN3 fittings all around. My old flexible hoses were shot and honestly I'm a little surprised I never ruptured a line given how they looked before. New T fittings, some adapters, and she should stop a lot better once it's all done.

Brake Lines.jpg

Need to do some more line bending, but I need to get some body panels on first, so now I'm starting on the bed.

Rear Bed.jpg

It's in pretty rough shape. You can see the doors are both bent, bolt holes are warped, and a plethora of other issues. The first of which

Lower Rear Door Hinge.jpg

How the **** do I get to the inner bolts holding these in? It looks like you have to cut a hole and then patch it back up once done, but I'm really hoping I'm just missing something simpler.

[Esteban]

You've done a lot of work! Congratulations. It is looking great.

I was a bit surprised by the U-joints problem. It's not an straightforward solution what you need to do, but after the problems you faced you've come with a great solution.

Also the work done to the brake fittings is looking good and will last forever.

Regarding the hinges of the rear doors, they are probably captive nuts inside that allow for some up and down movement. If the bolts come out easily, then you're ok. but if they are rusted solid inside, there's no other solution that what you've figured out. A royal pain. I was trying to look at pictures of a repair I did 3 years ago, but I ended up replacing the whole rear panel on both sides with some aftermarket parts done in Colombia. I had to improvise how to secure the hinges. You take zillion of photos, but I'm missing a detail of the captive nuts. The panels were so rusted that I just trashed them.

The aftermarket panels were different and easier to solve the hinge problem since they had an opening on the inside. The originals are a blind box in that part and you'll have to cut a hole on the side facing the cabin. I welded the 2 nuts to a 1/8" plate and had to do some tricks to prevent them from falling to the bottom. Hope that following picture can give you some ideas.

Idea for hinge nuts 2.JPG

[v30crewcab]

I would consider drilling the screws out carefully and retapping the threads to clean them up.