Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655

[RiverPatrol]

Great news!

Yes, the adjusters are very sensitive on Patrols. I think that's where many folks go wrong thinking the brakes are inadequate. They adjust them like they've adjusted any other drum brake system and still end up with a spongy pedal. I actually learned this method in one of the Patrol service or owner's manuals. It has worked like a charm for me and I've put thousands of on and off road miles on Patrols always confident with the brakes.

[r1lark]

Only a face a mother could love?

OK, what do you think, look number one................:

DSC08571 resized.jpg

................or look number two??

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It will look better once the paint is cleaned up and polished, and I get the really really nice front turn signal lights on that I got from RiverPatrol. Need to scare up a pair of decent headlight rings -- they don't need to be perfect, because this won't ever be a perfect Patrol. The current ones, you can't see it very well in the pictures, but they have a lot of coarse surface rust on the tops

Since I really don't think I'll ever mount the Western snowplow on the Patrol, decided to pull the support frame off. Gets a little weight off the front end. There is scant clearance between the front axle tubes and the rubber jounce bumpers -- about 1/2 of what the drawing in the service manual calls for -- and some of the reason may have been the weight of all the snow plow equipment. (This Patrol was used in the winter to plow the dealership and the car wash my family owned, and they also had some contracts to plow other businesses.) Guess at some point I'll get the front springs re-arched. The frame was a bear to get off, because the nuts/bolts were rusted up pretty bad. One came off with an impact, but I had to cut the heads off the other three with a angle grinder to get the plow frame off. (In the second picture, the tow hook and bolts have not been reinstalled.)

I also pulled the hood spotlights off, they were there for lighting when the snowplow was installed.

Of course, I'm also on the lookout for a vintage North Carolina State University Wolfpack license plate to replace the rusty bent up one.

Question: how many tow hooks were on the front of the early (circa '62) Patrols? Mine only has one, mounted on the passenger side. The bolts holding the drivers side of the bumper on (as well as the plow frame) where short ones and would not have been long enough to mount a tow hook. That doesn't mean it couldn't have been removed and shorter bolts put in, but I kinda doubt it -- why keep the hook on the passenger side and chuck the one on the driver's side?

[rdarnell]

Number 2. I think they all just had one hook and I think the license bracket goes on the drivers side.

[L60Boerne]

What a geat Patrol . If it were mine I've leave that paint just the way it is.

[rdarnell]

Wipe her down in some boiled linseed oil to give it a little satin shine. For comparison, the bottom has been wiped down with BLO and the top is untouched.

[RiverPatrol]

Some TR3 Resin Glaze with make that paint shine.

[r1lark]

Some TR3 Resin Glaze with make that paint shine.

That's what I plan on doing. Got the TR3 already, but going to wait until spring to work on the paint.

rdarnell, I've used linseed oil before on one of my Studebakers, but still on the fence as far as using that again. In fact, I plan on trying one of the newer wipe-on satin clear coats on that same car.

[r1lark]

Went to my Mom's today, so got a little work done on the Patrol. One big thing was to finish fine-tuning the brake adjustment. After this was done, it has a GREAT pedal!! Again, thank you RiverPatrol for explaining how to do this.

Also put on (loosely) the new Energy Suspension (part number 9.5124G) 20mm Stabilizer Bushings. They fit great, here is a picture:

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They are on loosely because the sway bar links still need to be installed. Tried to install them, but the stepped smaller diameter area on the bushings was too large to fit into the holes in the sway bar and mounts. Guess I'll make a mandrel and trim the diameter of the step down on the lathe to match the holes, so I can get this finished up next trip and drive the Patrol up and down the long dirt driveway next to my Mom's house.

Also pulled one of the front shocks off (just cut the nuts/threaded shafts off) to verify the extended and collapsed lengths. I'm considering either the KYB # 343219, or the Monroe 31069. Both have been recommended on this forum.

[r1lark]

After measuring the original Patrol shock, and comparing to the KYB and Monroe, I've settled on KYB.

Considering two different KYB shocks -- KYB Gas-A-Just KG5517, and the KYB Excel-G 343219. The Excel-G is a 'OEM replacement' type shock, and the Gas-a-just is a heavier duty shock for higher center of gravity vehicles, wider tires, heavier loads.

Cost for the Gas-a-Just at RockAuto is about twice the cost of the Excel-Gs ($33.99 versus $17.26) but I'm leaning towards the Gas-a-just.

Any input? Anyone used these shocks?

[Esteban]

I'm running the KYB GR-2 on mine, installed since 2006 (aprox 17k miles). Just checked since I have not kept the record of the model number, but a pdf with the KYB application guide. So the GR-2 seem to be the G that you refer. I've only used this brand.

However, on mine I modified the bottom anchor of the shock absorbers to be with an eye (long story...)

By looking at your post, I definitely would go with KYB Gas-A-Just type. The other is probably best suited for street driving only.