The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

DIYs, FAQs, How-Tos and anything else that doesn't fit in another topic

Postby plateaucal » Sat Jul 25, 2020 5:02 pm

Cool, I hope someone would like to have them.
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Postby PetrolPatrol » Mon Jul 27, 2020 11:14 am

What's the correct bolt/thread size for securing the roof to the windshield on a true 69? Mine came with some crazy concrete grade screws that didn't go in correctly. I took them out long ago and finally want to secure it correctly (assuming the PO didn't muck up the threading).
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Postby jwgreen » Thu Aug 27, 2020 4:04 pm

So I was looking at a spare axle I have out back and noticed that it does not have locking hubs on it. So my question is, if it doesn't have the locking portion on the end of the hub then is it always unlocked or always locked?? :think: :think:
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Postby plateaucal » Thu Aug 27, 2020 4:42 pm

That is the drive flange. Always connected.
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Postby jwgreen » Thu Aug 27, 2020 6:24 pm

plateaucal wrote:That is the drive flange. Always connected.


Hmmm... :think: :think: what would be the disadvantage to using this instead of a locking/unlocking hub? Isn't that how most modern 4x4 run these days with all time locked hubs then you only have to shift into 4x4 when you need instead of getting out and locking the hubs or more importantly forgetting to and then having to get out in the mud to lock them..
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Postby Esteban » Thu Aug 27, 2020 7:25 pm

jwgreen wrote:
plateaucal wrote:That is the drive flange. Always connected.


Hmmm... :think: :think: what would be the disadvantage to using this instead of a locking/unlocking hub? Isn't that how most modern 4x4 run these days with all time locked hubs then you only have to shift into 4x4 when you need instead of getting out and locking the hubs or more importantly forgetting to and then having to get out in the mud to lock them..


The locking hubs were an option available in the States, but not overseas at the beginning, and then, never offered by Nissan on the 60 Patrol. A true original, doesn't have locking hubs :twisted: . Manufacturers started getting rid of the locking hubs, because they invented this gimmick of "shift on the fly" or other names. I just laugh at it, since I've been doing a shift on the fly since I got my hands on my Patrol. There's no mystery for it. All the parts are moving at the same speed (provided the tires are the same) so when you engage 4WD, there's no grinding noise or anything else.

In theory, you save a little on mpg with unlocked hubs, since there's no drag of all the moving parts of the front axle. I use to get 13 mpg with the hubs locked, and maybe 13.5 unlocked. I have yet to install the brand new hubs that I purchased a couple of years ago, and it's over 16 years of driving without them. The sole idea that you can engage at will is the one that has prevented me from installing them (besides laziness :twisted: )

With parts being unobtanium for a ring and gear set for instance, it makes sense to avoid running them all the time, although without load, since worse case scenario, you can install the front set in the rear (I've done that in 2 Patrols).
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Postby jwgreen » Thu Aug 27, 2020 8:32 pm

Thanks Esteban,
I was pretty sure that would be the case but just wanted to double check. I've only ever heard of the locking hubs so when I saw that today I was surprised. I have a set or 2 of locking hubs as well so I will have to ponder which way I will run it.
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Postby moore_rb » Sat Aug 29, 2020 11:39 am

Another thing to consider is where the Speedo cable hooks up on the transfer case. I have seen 3 variants:

1) Very early Patrols connected the speedo at the front drive flange on the transfer case- This requires the front driveshaft to be spinning for the speedo to work. Obviously, if you put locking hubs on one of these trucks, it disengages the front driveshaft, and no more speedometer; unless you put the transfer case into 4wd :?

2) The second style speedo cable connection (came along in 64-65 ish) moved the attachment point to the rear driveshaft output flange. This style of speedo hookup can be used with front locking hubs and with the transfer case in 2wd, because as long as the rear driveshaft turns, so does the speedo cable.

3) 3rd style (looks to be about 68-ish and newer) the speedo attachment point moved to the belly/center of the transfer case, and is driven off the main shaft. This style of speedo connector is also compatible with locking hubs since the speedo cable always spins when the transfer case main shaft is spinning.

So there you go... more than you ever needed to know about which style Patrol transfer case you should look for, if you wanted to run front locking hubs.

BTW Justin- Those factory front hub flanges are becoming pretty scarce... Don't scrap them.
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Postby jwgreen » Tue Sep 01, 2020 11:50 am

Anyone know what the name of these style connectors are and/or a source for them? I found some on a site but they want $12 for 2!!! :shock: :shock:

Fuel sender connectors.PNG


Is this an ok post for this thread RP???? ;) ;) ;) :pray: :pray:



Edit.....figured it out!! Packard 56 or just 56 series terminals!!!
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Postby jwgreen » Wed Oct 07, 2020 2:47 pm

Does anyone have a source for the correct headliner material? I've searched the forum but can not find where someone listed a part number or source.
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Postby RiverPatrol » Thu Oct 08, 2020 11:24 am

jwgreen wrote:Does anyone have a source for the correct headliner material? I've searched the forum but can not find where someone listed a part number or source.

viewtopic.php?f=23&t=2151&p=11127#p11127
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Postby jwgreen » Sat Oct 10, 2020 9:43 am

RiverPatrol wrote:
jwgreen wrote:Does anyone have a source for the correct headliner material? I've searched the forum but can not find where someone listed a part number or source.

viewtopic.php?f=23&t=2151&p=11127#p11127


Thanks River, I saw this post but there where no pictures. Guess you fixed that!!
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Postby Peter60 » Sun Oct 11, 2020 3:52 pm

Does the fuel tank needs to be earthed?

I'm putting in a second non-standard fuel tank and plan to put rubber strips over the metal brackets to reduce rubbing. Therefore it won't be earthed.

Should I earth it?
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Postby Esteban » Sun Oct 11, 2020 7:08 pm

Peter60 wrote:Does the fuel tank needs to be earthed?

I'm putting in a second non-standard fuel tank and plan to put rubber strips over the metal brackets to reduce rubbing. Therefore it won't be earthed.

Should I earth it?


The sending unit already is connected to earth by means of one of the two wires that come to it, so in theory you don't need to have the fuel tank earthed. However, it's good practice. I've notice on mine that there's a grounding connection at one of the mounting bolts for the fuel tank.
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Postby zed » Mon Oct 19, 2020 10:57 pm

What mounts to the two threaded holes on the bulkhead (noted by the yellow circles)?
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