The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread.

DIYs, FAQs, How-Tos and anything else that doesn't fit in another topic

Postby Peter60 » Mon Jan 22, 2018 6:52 pm

Another quick question.

I have two distributors. One from my 77 (first image) and another spare year is unknown - perhaps an early 60s.

Looking at the governor springs (see images). The one from my 77 has two springs but different sizes . The other has only 1 spring (I assume one is missing)!

Its not clear in the manual if the springs should be the same.

Should I take the one spring and replace the short other spring?

How much difference does the governor weights/springs make to the running of a G60?

dissy 1.JPG
dissy 2.JPG
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Postby Esteban » Mon Jan 22, 2018 9:17 pm

Peter, most probably the springs are a set, just like in your first picture. However, in one Parts Manual, they are the same in the drawing and were sold as a set.

I was reviewing some pictures I took 8 years ago when I change the vacuum advance and serviced the rotating plate that holds in place the points. The plate rotates with the vacuum advance, and the cam of the distributor changes its angle with the centrifugal advance (governor springs). Of all the pictures that I have of the dismantle, according to Murphy's Law, I'm didn't take any pictures of the centrifugal advance. Sorry.

The centrifugal advance is key and very important. Some European cars of the 70s only had that system and not the vacuum. In your case, if one the springs have been changed, you might be getting more advance at high rpms, or sooner. You can check if the advance is correct with a little bit of patience, if you have a tachometer and a timing light. According to the manual, you should get 8 degrees more of advance at 1045 rpm than at 400 rpm (you probably have to disconnect the vacuum advance for the test) So if you have 10 degrees at 400 rpm, you should get 18 degrees at 1045 rpms.

Very few of us here in the States are running that distributor with the exception of those who had installed an aftermarket distributor instead of the waterprotect original one. For that reason, it will be difficult to get an answer for your question. Hope some of the Aussie members can chime in.
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Postby Peter60 » Tue Jan 23, 2018 6:45 am

Thanks Esteban

I'll do the test as you suggested and see what happens. Thanks for the technical info - invaluable :D
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Postby jazie » Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:23 pm

Just rcatching up reading through this thread for the first time in about a year. Once again I am amazed with all the helpful people out there, especially Esteban! A real 60 champion. Cheers, sir.
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Postby IrishPatrol » Sun Mar 18, 2018 12:53 pm

Ignition switch purchased on eBay from Mid East. Not sure if switch is bad or wiring incorrectly. This was sold as never used had lots of nissan keys. And some weird ones with horses. Seamed to be in order when I received. After installing as per the instructions. I find the acc. Won't work or get power. Although it will turn over as it should when the key is turned to start position. I am not a wiring genii use by any means. Any way to know for sure if switch is bad or do I have it wired incorrectly. Not really sure this is an omen switch or something they are passing off. I had a bargain which from schucks installed and operating fine. Just liked the idea of fancy nissan keys and Orem switch. Any one help with sure fire test? Don't really want to pay auto electric guy. Thanks.
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Postby IrishPatrol » Sun Mar 18, 2018 12:55 pm

Ignition switch purchased on eBay from Mid East. Not sure if switch is bad or wiring incorrectly. This was sold as never used had lots of nissan keys. And some weird ones with horses. Seamed to be in order when I received. After installing as per the instructions. I find the acc. Won't work or get power. Although it will turn over as it should when the key is turned to start position. I am not a wiring genii use by any means. Any way to know for sure if switch is bad or do I have it wired incorrectly. Not really sure this is an o.e.m switch or something they are passing off. I had a bargain which from schucks installed and operating fine. Just liked the idea of fancy nissan keys and O.e.m switch. Any one help with sure fire test? Don't really want to pay auto electric guy. Thanks. There are 4 posts numbered on the Bach of switch 1 is from battery, 2 for acc. 3-4 are said to be starter and like function. .
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Postby IrishPatrol » Sun Mar 18, 2018 4:51 pm

Answered my own question.. Note wiring instructions may have been bogus. Did a little trouble shooting ignoring everything I thought I knew. Answer is the switch is good. Sweet.
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Postby RiverPatrol » Sun Mar 18, 2018 8:40 pm

As an added caveat, the US Patrols did not have an ACC position on the ignition switch, nor the wiring to accommodate it.
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Postby IrishPatrol » Sun Mar 18, 2018 11:05 pm

I wouldn't know. The switch I purchased had 4 posts. The description he gave to install wasn't correct for me. How ever I did find a way to make it work properly. May have just been in the on position for acc. As described. Never the less I have the original box (what's left of it) with part number etc.. And a Nissan key. Not sure why that makes me feel all warm and fuzzy. The reverse light I fit from him works as well. He seems legitimate to me. May go shopping again.
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Postby RiverPatrol » Mon Mar 19, 2018 10:24 am

The correct ignition switch for your Patrol would have three posts, although it is certainly possible to make the 4 post switch work, as you have found. If it was Ukstar that you purchased from, I can vouch for his legitimacy. I have purchased many Patrol parts from him. As with anyone selling Patrol parts, they are not aware of the changes in the various years, so they really can't be held responsible when you purchase a part that was for a later model, which it sounds like you did. The reverse light he sells is indeed correct for our '69 Patrols, glad you were able to get one.
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Postby IrishPatrol » Sun Mar 25, 2018 9:04 pm

Any hot tips on how to remove the small extremely strong pin that hold the doors on the vents in the wind screen? I have some replacement doors I need to install but the pins in the hinges are bent on both ends trying to bend one end straight but seems nearly impossible with the screen in the upright position. Very tight area to work in . I am trying not to have to remover the hard top and drop the screen down. May have to go that route but thought I would try and see if any one has a good tip or tool for this endeavor.
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Postby Johnny Roadkill » Sun Mar 25, 2018 11:18 pm

Maybe cut one end off with a dremel or similar precision cutter and replace it with a new piece of stainless wire when fitting the new doors?

Of course that comes from someone who isn't a stickler for keeping everything original...

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D
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Postby Peter60 » Mon Mar 26, 2018 3:59 am

I found the hinge pins were made of soft steel. They were easy to bend.

I wrote it up here viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4792

Replacing the vent flaps are one of the most difficult tasks I have done on a Patrol!!
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Postby IrishPatrol » Mon Mar 26, 2018 9:14 pm

Thanks for the tips I find the pins to be extremely tough. I remember retreating the doner doors from a wind screen that was off the patrol. They were still a Pain. The pins on my patrol are really in good condition and very strong. Can't find the right combo to bend the straight. May have to heat them up I am thinking. Solder gun? Maybe.
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Postby Johnny Roadkill » Tue Mar 27, 2018 4:51 am

If you've got access to a gas fired solder gun that might work with the tip removed and some foil behind the pins...I'd be surprised if an electric iron would get hot enough, most top out at 450degC. Worth a try...

Cheers,
D
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'78 G60H Ute Cab - the cherry on top.
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'07 Challenge Camper - home away from home.
'12 Outlander - the grumpy bunny.
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