Patrol u-joint / universal joint source turns into project

Original and compatible parts

Postby Esteban » Wed Aug 22, 2018 8:18 pm

This is the picture of the original u-joint cross that I mentioned. The part # is 37126-85460.

The measurements are exactly the same as posted by curlrider11

U-joint cross.jpg


For those interested in the price tag, it's 50 sucres. That was the Ecuadorean currency in those years (now is dollars). The equivalent was $2 at that time.
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Postby curlrider11 » Thu Aug 23, 2018 10:14 am

Wow thanks for the photo and the part number Esteban. So no luck on my end finding u-joints from Japan. They said they're out of stock on the bearings they had listed online. It'd be interesting to see if any of those that you might be chasing down Esteban will be a fit or similar. But having that part # is helpful!

As for now, the u joints have been serviced, greased and reassembled into the yoke. I'll upload a few photos of that process if anyone is interested in seeing what it's like. Back on the road and running well!
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Postby mad4hws » Thu Aug 23, 2018 1:31 pm

I know that 4WD Products in Australia stocks ujoints. I think they work too. When I had the Minion Missile's transmission rebuilt, I think the transmission guys installed them. I'm not 100% sure though - the new ujoints were in the box of parts I gave them and I didn't get them, back, so I think they work. Anyone else have experience with them? With the axles being rebuilt, I will be placing another order in the next few weeks. If there is any interest in these, let me know and I can include more in the order.
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Postby curlrider11 » Sat Aug 25, 2018 9:15 am

I wonder of they were a perfect fit or if the grinder was required. I am in process of putting my repacked and cleaned ones back in the patrol since they were still in pretty top condition. Will keep you guys posted.
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Postby Esteban » Sun Aug 26, 2018 7:25 pm

Unfortunately the SKF UJ331 U-joint that arrived over the weekend has the same diameter for the cross at 0.773" than the ones member Curlrider11 purchased. It was a big disappointment. As a reminder the original measure 0.679".

I'll contact member Raul Rodriguez from Colombia to see what options are over there.

Thanks again to Curlrider11 for his insight in this issue, that certainly will help avoid some frustration to those that do decide to install these alternates U-joints grinding the yokes.
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Postby curlrider11 » Mon Aug 27, 2018 8:43 am

Thanks a ton for looking into that Esteban. Seems like the conclusion this far if anyone is looking to replace u joints is that servicing existing joints if they're in decent shape is a viable option. I'll post photos of the reassembly procedure at some point soon. Everything is back together without any play in the u joint bearings and is driving down the road again great. Guess I'll keep looking for that Easter egg unobtanium u-joint.
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Postby curlrider11 » Mon Aug 27, 2018 11:26 am

Pressing the u-joints on was a relatively easy task. The challenges were mainly aligning the the caps with the t of the u joints to assure the joints didn't pinch and bend the bearing caps when they were being pressed or hammered on....

First, I test fit the t joint or spider into the yoke. I started with the non driveshaft side....
ready to reinstall.jpg


test fit.jpg



Remembering this time to not install the grease fitting ensured that I wouldn't risk snapping it off when pressing it back together was helpful. I used my trusty old Reed bench vise to set the u joint caps nice and straight into the yoke...
seating the cap straight.jpg

I found that using some kind of press to begin the process was very helpful as a I had a hard time setting it straight in just using a hammer and punch. it takes too much force to use a vise grip to press the U-joint on completely but at least getting it started made the whole job a lot easier.
IMG_20180822_130309969-768x1024.jpg


While hammering a cap in can seem intuitive, it was a bit of a careful balance of striking with force but not too much so as to risk hammering in too far or crooked. The yoke on a sturdy bench with a punch and good weighted hammer will do the job just fine.
IMG_20180822_131041646-768x1024.jpg

I hammered these caps down checking after every stroke and stopped just after they passed the lip of where the snap ring seats. This was to ensure that if it was a little too loose it could be struck once or twice more without having to somehow hammer it back out because it fit too tight.
bearing cap depth.jpg


I installed the snap ring on one side before beginning to hammer the other side in. This was to ensure that when hammering the other side in I wouldn't risk backing the first one out.
IMG_20180822_131250688-768x1024.jpg


Installing the second bearing cap is done by eye and feel. One hand on the t joint/spider and the other on the cap to ensure that the cap slides on and doesn't smash into the lip of the u joint body... I pulled the tea joints halfway up to seat in the lip of the bearing cap while the other half was in the bottom bearing cap that was already pressed in. This just helped with alignment and making sure I wouldn't damage the seal by hammering it in at a slight angle. One swing at a time seeing that it is going on evenly. I checked and rechecked after getting close to the snap ring indent. The fit and the feel of the U joint was fluid and not binding up.. You want the bearing caps down enough that there is no play in the U joints laterally but also not overly smashed on to cause binding up.
half done.jpg


one logical thing that could have been done would have been to measure the final outside diameter of the U-joints and compare it to the stock U-joint dimensions and see if they are at or near tolerance to one another. I didn't do this final measurement but had zero play and also a nice fluid motion in my U-joints and just called it good. It's bolted up easily and smoothly and after bolting the yolk 2 the rear axle and front transfer case I added the grease fittings and filled the U-joints to their capacity. I'm sure servicing extended the life of these joints and hopefully I won't ever have to take them apart again. My eyes will be on the lookout for an adequate replacement none the less like Esteban. Hope this helps anyone who was wondering about servicing or repairing their U joints.
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Postby jwgreen » Fri Oct 19, 2018 4:43 pm

I used Precision 331 and 331A ujoints for my rebuild and I don't recall having much issue with them but it's been several years since I did them. Here are the specs
Precision331ujoint.PNG
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Postby L60Boerne » Fri Oct 19, 2018 6:33 pm

I'm going to keep my good eye on Justin, he gets it right.
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Postby jwgreen » Fri Oct 19, 2018 7:24 pm

L60Boerne wrote:I'm going to keep my good eye on Justin, he gets it right.
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Only because I usually do things at least twice, wrong the first time, correct the second! :doh:
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