Well, its time to replace my G60’s clutch.
I’m heading off on a 2,500km trip to Lightning Ridge at the end of May 2022 (for more information see Outings) and the clutch is my weak point.
After spending a heck of a lot of time of trying to work out if there is a suitable clutch plate and pressure plate combination for my G60 and Marks gearbox combination, I have totally given up researching. There is not enough detail out there to make a correct decision. On top of that some of the information is absolutely incorrect!
So I decided to just buy a G60 pressure plate and separately buy the clutch plate to match the Marks spline (275 x 24T x 25.5). And of course, a spigot bearing and release bearing.
I placed orders in early May with allpartsautomotive.com.au. They were the only place I could find who had the Marks specified clutch plate R10767W and the pressure plate listed separately. All in stock and delivery in a few days.
So I set about removing the old clutch.
POWERTRAIN REMOVALThe manuals (and forum advice) said “pull the whole powertrain - engine, clutch housing, gearbox and transfer case out in one”. This does seem extreme and perhaps the recommendation was made in the days when car hoists and gearbox jacks were not common place. As I didn’t have either I thought I’d do it that way anyway.
The removal is pretty slick as the G60 has been designed for the removal to be undertaken in one. Disconnect electricals each side of the grill, take grill and radiator out as one, disconnect bits and pieces and haul the powertrain out.
Just a tip for Marks gearbox owners – to remove the gearshift you need to unscrew the thing holding it in.
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About 30 hours later job done! (I may not be the most efficient worker!). Powertrain on the shed floor.
I did have a few problems with the removal. I didn’t see and therefore didn’t disconnect the earth cable from the chassis to the starter motor! This is a fairly solid cable and I wondered why I couldn’t roll the G60 back! Using a winch, I finally moved the car backwards (and broke/snapped the earth cable). Enough said!
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CLUTCH REMOVALI pulled off the gearbox/transfer to expose the clutch housing. The housing was full of grease and oil.
The grease was there from 45 years of mechanics over-greasing the clutch lube points. These are the two nipples on the clutch yoke release mechanism. They must only need a TINY amount of grease, any more and it goes directly into the clutch housing.
The oil looks like it comes from the engine – main seal or just oil leaks. It was just sitting at the bottom of the clutch housing but wasn’t too bad. I had fixed a couple of engine leaks and decided to take no further action.
I removed the bearing, plates etc and also the flywheel.
The pressure plate had the three fingers ‘buttons’ unevenly worn.
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The clutch plate looked good (no oil/grease) along with the release bearing and spigot.
ACQUIRNG A SPIGOTI decided to replace the spigot.
Because of the Marks gearbox I needed a non standard G60 spigot.
I removed the existing spigot (using the wet paper trick) and found my spigot was 32mm long!
Standard G60 spigot ID 19mm OD 23.8mm L 22.2mm or maybe 25.5mm (3/4” x 15/16” x ??”)
Marks spigot ID 16mm
Of course, there were nothing in Australia the correct size. For the standard spigot search eBay part no ASB515.
So I had one machined by a mate of a mate. His advice was 32mm was too long and it would make aligning everything more difficult. ID 16mm OD 23.8mm L 25mm. Cost $50. Other places weren’t interested in talking to me.
He also made up a tool for me to hit the spigot in (worth its weight in gold!).
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ACQUIRNG A PRESSURE PLATEI definitely needed a new pressure plate. Unfortunately, the supplier I order one let me down. They were out of stock. The clutch plate and release bearing were shipped and received.
Well, I thought – there are plenty on eBay for the complete kit – I was getting desperate as I wanted all this done well in advance of my trip.
Ordered and paid for one (about $800). eBay listing had 5 is stock. Nope - out of stock. Ordered another. Same thing. I just lost two weeks!
I then tried to get my pressure plate rebuilt – sure but 6 months waiting list!
I visited my local clutch place. Pretty much the same thing. However, the guy was friendly and understanding. He knew I was desperate. He sent me to a small engineering workshop that used to build clutches 20 plus years ago. I spoke to the guy on the phone. He hasn’t rebuilt clutches for years but yes, since I’m out of options, bring it out…. He thought he had parts (or could make them) and it would be ready in 2 days.
Then on the way home he called. Good news. He had one on the shelf with 20 years of dust.
I picked it up the next day for $385 and left my old one for him to recondition.
FLYWHEELWhile waiting for parts I had the flywheel ground. $100.
I don’t know if it was really necessary but it couldn’t hurt. It was easier enough to get off and on. However take note. The 6 bolt holes appear to not be equally spaced and takes a few flywheel rotations to get it aligned.
CLUTCH REASSEMBLEAll the clutch ( clutch plate and pressure plate) was easier enough to reinstall with a plate alignment tool (19mm x 24Tooth). Getting the release bearing in and set up was a bit tricky. There isn’t lots of space and my release bearing sleeve was a bit worn where it rubs against the yoke and its spring retainer wire was a bit stretched. No new ones available. But they worked.
NEW SEALS FOR TRANSFER CASEI split the gearbox and transfer case. I replaced the output oil seals for the forward and rear drives (ID 50mm OD 73mm W 15mm) on the transfer. The manual shows 3 seals with the third one between the gearbox and transfer. I couldn’t see that- I assume the Marks configuration is different.
DRIVETRAIN REASSEMBLYI initially tried to reconnect the engine/clutch housing with the gearbox/transfer. That proved too difficult so I split the gearbox and transfer case again.
Getting the gearbox connected to the clutch housing was fairly easy. As was the gearbox and transfer. I cut a new gasket for in-between the gearbox and transfer.
REINSTALLING THE POWERTRAINAgain, a fairly easy process. It took time and effort to align the engine mounts and gearbox mounts.
A tip about the engine mounts. I removed the two nuts on the top of each engine mount to remove the engine leaving the mounts in place. Then when I tried to get the engine back in, the alignment was impossible. I ended up taking the bolts out from UNDER the mounts, connect the mounts to the engine and then they just slid into place without too much difficulty. I'm sure most mechanics would know that.
Everything else slot into place, was easily to reconnect etc
It was ready to test. The guy who made my spigot said I should start it in gear so the clutch plate doesn’t move. I don’t know about this. Without reconnect the propeller shafts I started it. All worked. I ran through the gears and all good.
I’ve been for a long drive and all very pleasing.
SUMMARYIt took me about 30 hours to remove the powertrain and maybe about 50 to install new clutch and reinstall the powertrain.
All up say 100 hours.
It’s a big job and providing you have the right equipment is is fairly easy to do.
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Not sure if I will get there.
Not sure if I will get back.
But I usually do!!!
by G60michael » Wed May 03, 2017 3:53 pm 
