Weber Carb install

[IVAN]

Hello all,

Installing a Weber is accomplished quickly and requires basic hand tools if you have been thinking about upgrading.

Parts used were a used Weber 32/36 DGEV, and a Trans Dapt adapter purchased off the internet. The adapter I used in the pictures fit with some grinding, but I would recommend the single barrel adapter sold by the same company if I had to do it over again.

The main reason I accomplished this install was when I first purchased my Patrol, it had issues with both maintaining an idle and running for more than a few minutes at a time. I already had the Weber sitting on a shelf so that was a good of a starting point as any to trouble shoot what was going on.

So to start off, I removed the oil bath air cleaner, disconnected the fuel/vacuum lines, and unbolted the original carb from the intake.

[IVAN]

Before I installed the Weber it required a rebuild due to sitting for so long, I picked up a rebuild kit for $30 bucks from a local dune buggy shop. The components were simple enough, some gaskets, diaphragms, and replacement springs/washers...but they only provided an exploded diagram of the carburetor and no instructions.

[IVAN]

Internet search provided a step by step guide to disassembly of a similar Weber model, which allowed me to break down, clean, and replace the parts that came in the rebuild kit.

[IVAN]

Everything put back together, ready to go on the Patrol.

[IVAN]

The first issue I came across were the mounting studs sat at 1" tall. The Trans Dapt adapter flares at the same height preventing it from seating flat against the manifold. So, I threaded the nut down 3/4" (seen on the stud on the Left side) and used it as a guide to cut the top 1/4" of the stud off with a hack saw. Then backed off the nuts to ensure thread integrity. The Trans Dapt adapter now sat flush against the manifold.

[IVAN]

Second issue was the flared portion of the Trans Dapt adaptor did not leave room for the nut to turn on the stud closest to the engine. So, I used a combination of a dremel and a metal rasp file to attack the material on the side of the adaptor. The light and angle is off in the picture, but it required quite a bit of material to be removed.
Once that was complete, it dropped into place with gaskets on both ends and bolted in tight.

[IVAN]

Hooking up the stock throttle linkage required two modifications.

First, spacing the throttle actuator arm away from the body of the carburetor, since it was binding against the butterfly linkage assembly. I ended up using a bunch of washers to accomplish this but it is not my long term solution. I've dug through the parts bin at the dune buggy shop thinking if anybody would have what I needed, it would be them. But have not found an extension piece that connects to the linkage as I require.

[IVAN]

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Second issue with the linkage was the lower arm connection point, when I assembled everything and depressed the accelerator pedal the carburetor would not go to wide open throttle. But this was an easy fix, it just required a hole getting drilled about 1" aft of the stock hole location bringing the linkage angles to the appropriate range of travel.

[IVAN]

Once it was installed, I started the truck and sprayed a bunch of starter fluid below the carb to test for leaks. If the adapter fit poorly and air was leaking it would have caused the engine to surge in RPMs, but everything was tight. Minus the underlying fuel supply issue which I'll post to a separate thread, this upgrade worked out well.

There is a two barrel to one barrel adapter made by the same company that may fit better depending on the stud distance. I did not see this product when I originally did this modification and I am not ruling it out as a future upgrade either.

For the linkage, the washers are a ghetto fix for now. I am thinking a throttle cable set up will be the safest option since these are sold as kits.

[RiverPatrol]

Thanks for the great "How to"! I've made this a sticky so it doesn't float away.