ckhorne's 1967 project

[ckhorne]

I'll be seeing him Tuesday. I can ask which Chevy rope seal he used if that helps.

Thanks - I do appreciate the offer, but I'm not sure I can let a project like this just sit there for the entire weekend!

I talked to my machinist and based on what RiverPatrol and others have said here, I think I'm going to go with what I've currently got in place. I may plan to hook up the starter when I get a little further and apply power for just a second, just to confirm that things will turn over. Not my first choice, but better than waiting until it's in the Patrol to test...

[moore_rb]

I may plan to hook up the starter when I get a little further and apply power for just a second, just to confirm that things will turn over. Not my first choice, but better than waiting until it's in the Patrol to test...

that's what I would do...

[Esteban]

Excellent progress and nice photos. I agree with Robert. Go ahead with your plans.

What is the source for you connecting rod bearings?

Please take pictures as you progress. Always good as a visual reference.

[ckhorne]

Excellent progress and nice photos. I agree with Robert. Go ahead with your plans.

Thanks, and thanks for the vote of confidence with going forward.

What is the source for you connecting rod bearings?

Connecting rod bearings was the tip you gave me - from Rock Auto:

Code: Select all

Go to the main page http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/
At the top, choose Part Number Search, and then enter:

Part number............ MS1569P
Manufacturer .......... Clevite (from the drop down list)

The main bearings I ordered from both Amazon (here) and Summit Racing (here). Both of those orders were cancelled on me, and I ended up finding some on ebay (here). And then Summit came through in the end.

I got a set of camshaft bearings from Motor Power, but I ended up not putting them in - the machinist said my existing ones were fine and recommended just leaving them.

So... I have an extra set of main bearings and camshaft bearings, both unopened. If anyone needs them, just PM me.

[ckhorne]

I've been meaning to get my intake and exhaust headers cleaned up and painted for a while. I tried using a wire wheel, but it was just too much work. A friend today had the afternoon free, so I hit him up to use his wet sand blaster. It's a Harbor Freight sandblaster hooked up to a pressure washer, reducing both the amount and size of the pressure system needed (and the hassle). The downside is that parts will flash rust. So a bit of blasting:

blasting2.jpg

blasting4.jpg

and some high-temp exhaust header paint later, and the headers are set aside for a few days from now.

painted_headers.jpg

Also in this picture are the pistons with new rings and bearings, ready to go in tonight. The freshly machined head is still in the bag.

Unfortunately, I found a pretty good crack in the exhaust header - one too big to ignore for long. I can either find a local shop that can properly weld cast iron or try to find a replacement...

[faux40]

I've been meaning to get my intake and exhaust headers cleaned up and painted for a while. I tried using a wire wheel, but it was just too much work. A friend today had the afternoon free, so I hit him up to use his wet sand blaster. It's a Harbor Freight sandblaster hooked up to a pressure washer, reducing both the amount and size of the pressure system needed and the hassle. The downside is that parts will flash rust.

Absolutely brilliant! I love the modification!

John

[RiverPatrol]

Do your mean the exhaust manifold is cracked? I might have one.

[ckhorne]

Do your mean the exhaust manifold is cracked? I might have one.

Oops - yeah, the manifold - the big cast iron one with the flapper / diverter valve. If you have one, that'd be great!

[RiverPatrol]

I'll take a look.

[ckhorne]

I made some good progress this weekend, but it was slowed down by having to go back and take care of some things.

First up, I decided to remove the rear cap to both inspect the seal and to add some RTV silicone between the rope seal and the rubber seals on the side, to ensure no leaking. I'm not sure how metal to metal is supposed to keep the oil out, so I added some insurance.

IMG_0880_b.jpg

The rope seal looked pretty well bedded in (which I suppose is to be expected after being torqued down):

IMG_0879.JPG

After re-installing the bearing cap, I was checked the existing bolt torque values, and noticed that not one, but three of the split washers on the main bearing caps were broken. All the pieces were held in place by the bolt head, but those things falling out while running wouldn't have ended well. So I replaced them all with new ones. I'd recommend anyone replacing their main caps to at least replace the split washers.