1967 Softop Project "Robin"

Builds, refurbishments, restorations, upgrades

Postby RiverPatrol » Mon Jan 08, 2018 3:12 pm

The floors you get will need to be modified somewhat.

The seat bench is bolted on to the tub.
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Postby yuke175 » Mon Jan 08, 2018 5:03 pm

I have seen threads on how the floor pans were modified, do you know of the tubs need modification?
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Postby RiverPatrol » Tue Jan 09, 2018 11:03 am

I'm not sure? I can't think of any differences in the mounting of the tubs. One concern would be the door jamb where the door latch mounts, the latched were different after '67. If the inset on the jamb is the same it should work.
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Postby yuke175 » Wed Apr 25, 2018 9:45 pm

So I was out in Las Vegas for work and decided to cancel my flight, book a rental truck, and pick up some patrol parts from Plateaucal in CO. The most important piece was the frame, which has no rot!

ImageUntitled by Chris Yuknis, on Flickr

Kyle, another member was lucky enough to claim a tub, bulkhead, and some other parts I was unaware of. Regardless, I helped deliver them to him in OH on the way home in return for some gas money. Man I wanted that tub!

ImageUntitled by Chris Yuknis, on Flickr

The doors, hood, transmission cover, and some smaller parts came home with me.

Overall, I am super happy about the frame. It should speed up my process quite a bit. I plan to reweld on one tab that was cut off, open up the crossmember to address any hidden rust, and then have the whole frame galvanized.

Has anyone seen a galvanized patrol chasis?
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Postby L60Boerne » Thu Apr 26, 2018 6:20 am

I told you they were some of the best parts on the globe awaiting a new home.
63 Soft Top
65 No Top
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Postby RiverPatrol » Thu Apr 26, 2018 9:40 am

Very nice score! Thanks for helping out Kyle get his parts and a big thank you to Plateaucal for spreading the love.

There was a recent discussion on galvanizing here: viewtopic.php?f=20&t=4044&p=39485&hilit=galvanizing#p39485
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Postby KyleAnschuetz » Sun Sep 30, 2018 2:26 pm

I would strongly caution against the Troa tub. I bought about 3k worth of their parts and they are Very hit and miss with respect to the quality and fit. The floors are fine to modify and the fenders are close enough to work with, but I doubt the tub will be able to be fixed without a ton of work. I am in the process of repairing the '72`s tub. It is not that hard to get a mig welder and cut pieces that will fix your issues. I can post pictures and repairs that are common to the tubs.
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Postby yuke175 » Sat Feb 02, 2019 12:46 pm

L60Boerne wrote:I told you they were some of the best parts on the globe awaiting a new home.


Ordering new alcan springs on Monday. Helping a buddy strip down his landcruiser so we can have both frames hot dip galvanized. I guess the axles are the next logical approach so I can have a rolling frame put together.

Is it new to replace everything in regards to axle seals or just leave it until I need to? I could just pop the diff cover, make sure it’s clean, do additional cleaning, fill with fluid, and clean them up / repaint.
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Postby Peter60 » Sat Feb 02, 2019 5:00 pm

I would replace the wheel bearings and seals. That means pulling the axles out but not the diff.

Have a look at the diff and clean the housing out as best you can. You may need a new diff gasket as well.

There are wheel bearing kits available on ebay.
Not sure if I will get there.
Not sure if I will get back.
But I usually do!!!
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Postby RiverPatrol » Fri Feb 08, 2019 5:40 pm

yuke175 wrote:
Ordering new alcan springs on Monday.


Out of curiosity how much are they getting for springs now? And shipping?
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Postby yuke175 » Mon Feb 11, 2019 1:14 pm

RiverPatrol wrote:
yuke175 wrote:
Ordering new alcan springs on Monday.


Out of curiosity how much are they getting for springs now? And shipping?


590 Front
650 Rear

I am told these springs are more expensive as they are tapered towards the ends and need to be ground down, so there are more labor hours?

I am having them add 2" of lift to the springs. I hope to run a 32-33" KM3
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Postby yuke175 » Mon Feb 11, 2019 4:07 pm

Got the parts truck down to a rolling chasis.

Heading back to the shop tonight to start removing shocks, swaybars, driveshafts, etc. Basically everything I can before the motors ready to plucked.

ImageUntitled by Chris Yuknis, on Flickr
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Postby yuke175 » Tue Feb 12, 2019 10:04 am

Spent a few hours at the shop last night.

Removed:
- steering column and box
- steering linkage
- front swaybar
- front shocks
- front driveshaft

Are the tie rod ends on eBay compatible?
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayIS ... 6000&ver=0
*** I am told no because they are metric threads vs the standard we need. Sounds like I will be rebuilding the ones on the patrol.

Do we have a source for U joints?
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Postby yuke175 » Tue Feb 12, 2019 6:30 pm

Today I ordered some goodies. Basically all the bushings and suspension pieces I could think of like bushings, boots, shocks, to get the suspension squared away once the springs are in and the frame is back from being galvanized.

Here is what I ordered for my own reference and that of others

Shocks - I ordered 4 KYB 343219 Excel-G Gas Shock
Springs - Being custom made by Alcan Spring as we speak
Sway Bar Bushings - Energy Suspension 9.5124
Tie Rod Dust Boots - Energy Suspension 9.13119
Rear Bump Stops - Energy Suspension 9.9137
Front Bump Stops - Energy Suspension 9.9103
Limiting Rod Stops- Energy Suspension 2.9101
Drag Link Boot -Toyota 45457-60010

Since I was shopping at Energy Suspension I also ordered these pads Kyle A. Used (I stole these bump stop part numbers from him too ;)
These will serve as body mounts.
Energy Suspension - Polyurathene Pad Set Square 9.9533

I need to order some sway bar end links from Energy Suspension too. I need to measure the ones that came off the patrol to decide which ones to get unless somebody has a recommendation for a 2" lift.
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Postby KyleAnschuetz » Sun Feb 17, 2019 10:02 am

Just a heads up, you may need square steel pieces with holes in them to properly distribute the load on the pad. The orginal ones appear to be a rubber pad sandwhiched between two pieces of steel. I used 1/8" thick steel with the energy suspension mounts, but I think I am getting about a 1/4" of body lift out of the setup.

For the bump stops, you will need a way to mount that bump stop. On my thread is some pictures of how I took the plate that used to have bump stops glued to them and what I did to get a bump stop back onto the pad without trying to glue one on there. It was 'Energy Suspension 9.9103G SM. GEN PURPOSE BUMP STOPS' with the original backer pad and two large washers. There are pics on my thread that may inspire you to figure out how to mount yours.

I am excited that you are about to go in the forward direction with a Patrol (pieces on not off)! Keep up the great work.
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