Minion Missile - 1973 Colombian Patrol Project

[mad4hws]

Thanks Esteban.

So, I was thinking.... Almost always a dangerous thing.

Having to jump start this thing with the battery under the seat is a real pain. just getting the jumper clamps on the battery posts without them contacting the body was a challenge. then putting the seat down so that the driver could actually turn the ignition key and pump the gas was another challenge on top of that. This was in the confines of my garage. if I were out on the road or trail, it would have been really hard....

So, as I said, I'm thinking. How to make this better and more improved. It seems like the option is to install remote battery terminals somewhere else. A couple of questions for this group: 1) has anyone ever done this before? Where did you install? and which types did you use and would you recommend them.

There are several varieties out there. I like these though - they seem simple and have covers so that would be less prone to accidental shorting:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway ... ing%20(CSE)%20(Bing)&utm_term=1100309957785&utm_content=Speedway%20%20(Dec26_2017).

[Esteban]

The idea of remote battery terminals is great! Never thought about it. More and more cars have them since the batteries are located in odd places.

The location of the Patrol battery is a blessing and a course. They do last a lot longer since heat from the engine compartment is not around, but the fact that is out of sight and on a difficult access, makes you forget about it so proper care is neglected sometimes, like adding water, etc.

[RiverPatrol]

I think that may be part of the reason that they all came with the hand cranks. Remote terminals are a great idea. I really dislike seeing a Patrol battery that has been relocated to the engine compartment. I've gotten used to reaching in and operating the gas pedal by hand while turning the key with the seat up because jumper cables are on the battery.

[L60Boerne]

Thank you all for providing these insights.

Battery - I would not recommend the Optima battery, I have two, one in each. They are not intended to be in vehicles that are not regularly started. Each has been replaced during the rebuilds spanning two years.

Remote Battery Terminals - Yes Yes, where do I sign up?

Fuse Block - Has anyone found a commonly sourced cover that shields the fuse block?

Patrolling around the oil puddles,
L60Boerne

[mad4hws]

Thank you all for providing these insights.

Battery - I would not recommend the Optima battery, I have two, one in each. They are not intended to be in vehicles that are not regularly started. Each has been replaced during the rebuilds spanning two years.

Remote Battery Terminals - Yes Yes, where do I sign up?

Fuse Block - Has anyone found a commonly sourced cover that shields the fuse block?

Patrolling around the oil puddles,
L60Boerne

Thanks for the background on optima. good to know - the highest price doesn't always get you what you want. One of the advantages of having remote terminals is you can put a trickle charger on them when not in use. I am ordering up the parts for the remote terminals this week. there are a few places that I'm thinking of: 1) engine compartment - but that would mean really long battery cables, 2) outside of seat pedestal on driver's side: most convenient, but the battery compartment is already pretty tight, 3) pax side seat pedestal. Plenty of space to route the cables. or 4) bed, wall to the battery compartment. This is pretty attractive as it is generally out of the way and pretty accessible. I'll let you know how it turns out and document it here. It seems like the parts are pretty available at hot rod shops, marine stores and even amazon.

Sorry, can't be of help on the fuse block. I replaced mine with the painless performance kit and it is now safe and secure inside the cabin.

[Esteban]

...One of the advantages of having remote terminals is you can put a trickle charger on them when not in use. I am ordering up the parts for the remote terminals this week. there are a few places that I'm thinking of: 1) engine compartment - but that would mean really long battery cables, 2) outside of seat pedestal on driver's side: most convenient, but the battery compartment is already pretty tight, 3) pax side seat pedestal. Plenty of space to route the cables. or 4) bed, wall to the battery compartment. This is pretty attractive as it is generally out of the way and pretty accessible. I'll let you know how it turns out and document it here. It seems like the parts are pretty available at hot rod shops, marine stores and even amazon...

The engine compartment will be the natural choice. If you place the terminals near the area where the starter is located, you only need a short length of battery cable, since you can tie to the starter post terminal. The ground cable will be the long one.

I have installed on mine a battery cut-off switch with a removable key in that area. Inside the cabin it is at the upper side of the vertical wall of the foot well (passenger side). I always disconnect the battery with this switch when the vehicle is not in use for some time (more than a week). I chose that location for the proximity to the starter in order to avoid added lengths of cable. Adding the remote terminals will be the next step.

[mad4hws]

I was actually thinking about the cut-off switch as well. Great minds must think alike. I like your idea, maybe I can incorporate the battery cut-off at the same time.

[mad4hws]

Hi everyone,
long time since I posted to my build thread. so, it needs an update. I sent the '67 axles from the chassis off to Rafael to be rebuilt. the box weighted 880 pounds. First time I used the F250 for real work. So, while those are off getting rebuilt and refurbished, I was thinking about some other things (with a little proding from my friend L60Boerne). I'm thinking of what else could go wrong with this rig and lets get it all taken care of at once. The short list is a) fuel pump, b) water pump, c) gas tank and d) carbuerator.

For the water pump, I was thinking about sending the one off of the '67 to get rebuilt and having it on the shelf "just in case". I called Kelloggautomotive out in arizone and was told that there were two water pumps for the Patrol. I pulled the one off of the '67 engine. the one that is in the Minion Missle is still connected. I'm not sure if they are the same or different. the one off of the '67 has some casting numbers that the one on the other one doesn't - it reads 'E1015'. Does anyone know? I am wondering if these are interchangable - If they are, I'll go ahead and have the one rebuilt. If they aren't, I will pull the one off and send it in to be rebuilt.

thanks everyone.

[Esteban]

Good to know about your plans. We'll be following your progress.

Regarding the water pumps, they are different internally, but totally interchangeable. Probably the water pump on your 73 is an aftermarket. In any case, somewhere around early 70s the changed the design and instead of two individual bearings, the axle is integral with a single bearing. Kellog is already familiar with the older design, so it might be a better choice to send the 67 water pump. The later water pump was fitted in late 73. It doesn't have a nut in the front of the axle, but rather a retainer ring for height control of the pulley that is pressed.

I am running with a water pump that most probably is manufactured in Colombia. It was purchased there by our member Pancho (no longer with his Patrol). Has no numbers in the casting and I had to grind the body in a couple of places to clear the thermostat housing. Has been in place for around 6k miles.

[mad4hws]

Thanks Esteban. You are a wealth of Patrol knowledge.