Cadflat Bead Roller Project.

Got rust? Seats, panels, doors, windows, etc. The old messages from the NPCA 'Body & Interior' category are here.

Postby Oddbod » Wed Nov 28, 2018 6:08 am

Well, I've started constructing my homemade bead roller.
I have scanned several sites and looked at numerous pictures on the internet which eventually had my head spinning.
I figured a bead roller could be a handy piece of equipment to assist with the making of patch panels a floor repairs etc.

I made a check list of the features I thought might be useful which included, that it be;

Powered
On a stand
Relatively easy to move
Have a throat of at least 24 inches
Have a side offset adjustment
A quick release which holds existing settings
Run 1 inch shafts which step down to 7/8" for dies
An adjustable guide
Made mostly from stuff that I have in my stash
Run standard 2 inch dies
Run keyways on all shafts, even if not used
Next post will have some pic's of my first steps.
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Postby RiverPatrol » Wed Nov 28, 2018 10:46 am

This will be an interesting project to watch. 8-)
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Postby Oddbod » Wed Nov 28, 2018 6:45 pm

Got my electric 1/2HP motor and reduction box.
I needed to remove the double pulley and source and attach a small chain sprocket.
Turned out the sprocket keyway did not match my reduction box keyway so I hand filed the smaller keyway and customised my key to get the right fit.
The original key was also pinned into the keyway, something that I had not anticipated...

I believe in an earlier life my motor and reduction box came from a clay pigeon launching tower.
Maybe somebody out there recognises its type.

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Postby Esteban » Thu Nov 29, 2018 11:26 am

A project for the projects! :clap: :clap: :clap:

This will be very interesting to see. Congratulations on your fabrication abilities.
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Postby Oddbod » Thu Nov 29, 2018 5:15 pm

Started to work out what plate I can use for the main body.
I had a 7 foot length of 1/2" plate which is 8" wide that I decided to use.
I did some quick calcs and cut two long pieces with a small piece 1" wide to space the long pieces apart.

I then got cut 4 bearing blocks 2" x 2" x 1 1/4" drilled them to take a bush that I purchased on line.
The bushes basically pressed in and then I just reamed them to take my 1" shaft.
The bearing blocks were also drilled centrally from the side and tapped so they can be bolted to the main plates.

I also got to figuring out my adjustable pressure device with the quick release.

So far so good, no drawings.


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Postby Oddbod » Fri Nov 30, 2018 7:53 pm

I worked out my shaft lengths and machining needs and acquired all the gears and sprockets I think I need.

During this process I also purchase a keyway cutting broach and cut all my own internal keyways with it.
I then hand made all my own keys from cutting up some mild steel flat bar, which worked out good.
I am using 3/16" keys.


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Postby Oddbod » Sat Dec 01, 2018 6:01 pm

After reading posts on machinery forums, I decided to bite the bullet and acquire myself an electronic speed controller unit known as VFD or Variable Frequency Drive Inverter.
There are numerous brands to choose from out there.
My choice was based on price and hope that the supplier was capable of supplying me with support if/when required...

I live in hope that this unit will provide me with variable speed control, forward and reverse ability and accept a foot control pedal.


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Postby Oddbod » Sat Dec 01, 2018 6:15 pm

It seems my pic would not attach, so I try again this time.
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Postby Oddbod » Sun Dec 02, 2018 10:07 pm

I am getting ready to weld up my plates into the C configuration.
I am concerned about warp age and movement, so I dug up an old free stand I was given and added a decent piece of 1" thick steel plate I picked up years ago.
My plan is to tack weld all plate pieces into position and then complete my main welds in the hope that everything stays straight and true.

Previously, when selecting my plate of choice I discovered that it was not too straight and spent some time with a buddy of mine with his 30 ton press straightening the pieces.


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Postby Oddbod » Mon Dec 03, 2018 2:11 pm

I have a set of 6 x 2" dies I secured and have also purchased my VFD from an ebay seller .
Before buying my device I did seek comments from another forum, but I also consulted an electrical engineer friend who also gave this unit a tick of approval.

The shaft gears are suitable to match my 2" choice of dies...
My sprockets are American and my gears are from China via ebay.
My shafts are sourced locally and I know them as 1" diameter bright mild steel.
My bearings also came off ebay, but could be sourced from numerous sources, they are supposed to be self lubricating so I am not sure that I need grease points.

Since I have only ever used a bead roller once previously about 20 years ago, it is difficult for me to really have a list of demands for this machine, I just took what I considered good features that sounded like they may provide versatility to performance.

I am into hot rods and old cars and think owning a bead roller maybe a useful machine to have in my shop.

Just to explain my thread title of "Cadflat Version", I have made several YouTube videos titled "Cadflat" of which I have four.
The name Cadflat comes from a couple of parts I have made to fit and modify a flathead Cadillac engine which was made from approx 1938 thru to 1948 and besides being used in Cadillac cars it was also used in a WWII tank. I am using one in my current hot rod project.

There is a link below to one of them and the others will pop up as well.
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Postby Oddbod » Tue Dec 04, 2018 3:04 am

I saw a post somewhere where a guy had added a bridging to basically shorten the throat depth by bolting a piece of metal between the top and lower arms of his bead roller.

I will incorporate this idea into my build to half the throat depth.
Attached is a pic of that principle I found posted on the internet.

I will be adding some bracing to the side of my two plates to help prevent that walking effect that can occur with deep throat machines.

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Postby RiverPatrol » Tue Dec 04, 2018 10:24 am

Eager to see this in action. This build is fun to watch. :D
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Postby Oddbod » Tue Dec 04, 2018 5:52 pm

I found in my local scrap yard, some off cut pieces of 4" x 2" heavy wall RHS steel tube about the right length to act as additional strengthening to my upper and lower plate arms.

I decided, that I will split the RHS long ways and get two "U" shaped channels that will be roughly 4" x 1" and I will weld them to the side of my plate arms, plus a vertical piece over the welded plate joint at the chain drive end of the bead roller to complete the "C" shape of the unit body.

My current dilemma is choosing a work height that I need to shoot for when making my pedestal.

I don't own the best back in the world and figure slightly higher maybe best for starters.
Should this not be to my liking, I figure I can always cut the pedestal post down a little to try and achieve the best work height for my requirements...

With all the metal involved in this project and my fragile back, I decided to fabricate a plate lifting clamp.
I copied it from You Tube and it does work good.

What with the 1" thick steel base table that I've welding on and then the weight of the actual 1/2" thick bead roller body thing are getting a little too heavy for my liking and since I have the ability to fabricate stuff, I figured this would be the time to do it.


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Postby Oddbod » Thu Dec 06, 2018 12:25 am

I started sorting out some scrap metal to see what will work for a pedestal.
I had a piece of scrap I beam, part of an old basketball post and also part of an old Ford banjo diff that looked interesting.

I found some old cast wheels that may come in handy for mobility since it starting to look kind of heavy now.

Here is what I came up with...


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Postby Oddbod » Thu Dec 06, 2018 9:09 pm

My work height is still a big question mark for and will remain so until I get this unit finished and working so that I can determine how I want to position myself during its operation.

Since I have only ever used a bead roller once many years ago in a factory for a home job and I recall it was quite low, which my back would not like these days.

I recall reading some discussion on a forum, where die/roller run-on was discussed regarding using AC powered bead rollers.
I am beginning to think it is a non issue as running my motor on the bench, as soon as the power is turned OFF the sprocket stops almost immediately.
Even if that does not turn out to be the case in reality, I am figuring with a item in the machine that load resistance should be enough to stop the rolling motion pretty darn quick.

Project progress wise, my next step was to mount the motor and reduction box.
I have no sense of how the center of gravity is going to work out here but lets just see where we end up for balance.
I made a sleeve to support the motor that can slide up and down the pedestal post which will hopefully provide me with chain adjustment later.

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