Cadflat Bead Roller Project.

Got rust? Seats, panels, doors, windows, etc. The old messages from the NPCA 'Body & Interior' category are here.

Postby Esteban » Wed Dec 12, 2018 8:01 am

Very impressive your fabrication! :clap: :clap: :clap:

We wish you'll solve promptly the VFD controller setup.
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Postby Oddbod » Wed Dec 12, 2018 6:21 pm

Nice to hear from you Esteban and thanks for your kind words of encouragement.
I do not have much progress to offer right now, however I did find a garage sale light a couple of weeks back which I have mounted and wired up.
It is nothing fancy and I am not sure whether I will even need a light, but since I have it I might as well install now.
I have also made a start on wiring my 3 phase circuitry, but require a couple of parts to complete the task.

In the mean time I have twice emailed the Follin VFD maker in China requesting some help/information, but so far after 10 days have not received a reply.
I guess this is an indication of how they treat their customers once they have taken the money.

There agent is in Melbourne Australia and he at least replies but does not seem to have much knowledge, just takes the margin I am assuming now.

If I do manage to receive the information or work it out for myself which is looking that way I will post what I discover to help out future builders.

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Postby rjiggy » Wed Dec 12, 2018 10:53 pm

Oddbod wrote:While I remain in limbo with respect to my VFD controller mysteries I have continued assembling my unit to help a positive spin on things.

That fortunately has been issue free.
My next step will be to fabricate some brackets to hold and locate my VFD box some where on the body of the bead roller.

Final location of the VFD can be determined later...

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Russ,
Here's a manual I found on the interweb. I think it is for your vfd.
BD330.pdf

Page 19 fig. 3-5 shows how to connect a potentiometer for a speed reference input signal. This potentiometer needs to be greater than 500 ohms. Page 18 shows how connect a switch input between S1 and DCM terminals on the control board. By default, this switch input will cause the drive to start in a forward direction. If you send me pictures of the motor and vfd nameplates I can help you with some other programming necessary to match the drive to the motor, very important to operate the motor safely and protect the motor windings and vfd from an overcurrent condition where one of the two will become an expensive fuse.

The tool looks fabulous. I cant wait to see some video of it in action.

Rick
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Postby Oddbod » Thu Dec 13, 2018 2:09 am

Hey Rick, thanks for taking an interest in my VFD predicament and your kind words regarding my project. :D

I will take you up on your offer in the near future when I have my head around things.

I am currently just trying to keep the physical build moving in the right direction for now.

Between now and new years you should hear from me to discuss the hi-tech side of this project.

More soon and many thanks, :D

Russ.
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Postby Oddbod » Fri Dec 14, 2018 1:17 am

I got a bit more wiring done.
Being a 3 phase motor, and that I want to run a single phase outlet for my light, I need to run a neutral, earth and the 3 active wires to the frame.

I've done about all I can do until my plug and switches turn up in the post. :think:

I also made a bracket to hold my VFD box, that will be in arms reach when operating the bead roller.

During any spare time I've had I have been contemplating some kind of chain guard/s. :think:
Just looking at those sprocket teeth and large chain, I hate for anybody especially little kids to ever get a opportunity to stick their fingers into that mincer combination. :pray:
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Postby Oddbod » Sat Dec 15, 2018 4:08 am

Finished the adjustable guide today so it is another box ticked.
It is just a friction grip arrangement with a threaded knob on the other side to lock it down tight as required.
I seem to be spending much time contemplating and figuring out my next move.
I still have stuff coming in the mail which I must wait for, it gets frustrating when I could use it now...
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Postby RiverPatrol » Sat Dec 15, 2018 10:12 am

It's really coming together nicely.
Beyond any hope for intervention

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Postby Oddbod » Sat Dec 15, 2018 5:51 pm

Still waiting for some stuff in the post, so decided to have a go at making my first of two chain guards.

I had planned like some others to make this my first project using my new bead roller, but boredom got the better of me, so I cut one out and folded it up.

Hey it ain't going to win any prizes, but it sure will save fingers from getting minced...

You may notice the boss sticking out of the guard there.
It has been done intentionally and presently it just acts as a tidy cover to the end of the shaft, but it has been copied from another bead roller I saw online where the guy kept this end of the shaft free to act as a power take off point to drive another tool that he had made.

Not a bad idea I thought.
He used socket universal joints and the extension bars as his drive line and it seemed to work well.
He ensure that his foot pedal had enough length in the electric cable to reach and be positioned close enough to the other tool which was a 3 roller machine to form flat bar into a circle from memory.

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Postby Oddbod » Sun Dec 16, 2018 8:42 pm

Just a side note to anybody who maybe interested while I wait for the mailman.

When it comes to cutting keyways in your shafts, I first thought I would need to go to a machine shop to get this kind of work done and had several keyways cut, but I found the prices for this work to be high considering how quick they can be done with the fancy machinery they have.

So when I managed to work out how my next lot of sprockets needed to work sometime into my project, when I discovered I found the need to add an additional level of drive to get my speed down even more.

I baulked at going back to the machine shop, so I decided to try and cut my own keyways and this is what I did.

Once my shaft and sprocket diameters matched, I set the sprocket in position on the shaft and tack welded the two components together.
I then mounted the pair with the shaft thru my drill press table center hole, center popped the contact line between the shaft and sprocket.

I have chosen to use a 3/16" or 4mm drill bit which when set up right you can drill down between the two components and ending up with half the drilled hole in the shaft and the other in the sprocket.

I used an electronic level to ensure that I was close to perfect alignment before drilling.
Drill slow and steady and pull the bit out to remove the metal cuttings.
If anything I made sure that any drill wander was biased toward the shaft.
The reason for this is I purchased from ebay a slightly used 3/16" keyway broche which will easily take care of any short coming in the sprocket internal bore later.

I figured for the cost of the broche and guide, I was at the end of the day going to be better off, since I would have cut keyways in both components, as my machine shop was not interested in cutting internal keyways with a broche and boy I am glad they were not as it would have cost me a bomb.

You can look on YouTube to see how to broche your sprockets etc, it is quite easy if you have a hydraulic press or similar equipment, again slow and easy is the way to proceed.

With respect to the drive shafts, I used a Dremel tool with a small grinding wheel and gradually squared up the half circle drilled hole to match the measurements I required for me keyway.

My keys are made from plain old mild steel and I just cut a piece off a flat bar scrap and use my grinder, belt sander and hand file to get it to size, it takes no time and to me for this kind of project keyway cutting is a myth, it is relatively simple and saves you decent $'s.

If I wasn't so keen to prove a point, I think I may have even just driven a round pin into the drilled hole and watched to see how well even that would hold up...

Sorry I don't have any pic's to offer right now, but will post some later, but if you have any questions please ask.
At the end of this build I will still own a broche and will be able to add keyways to any additional rollers I purchase or make for no extra cost.

My only other comment is, with your broche is treat it like glass, don't let if fall on the floor, make sure to get a guide to match your shaft diameter and be sure you have at least 1 shim included when you purchase it.

You won't use it much, but each time you do you will save decent money, plus gas, plus waiting time and still remain friends with the machine shop for those job you are unable to do at home.

Give it a go...
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Postby Esteban » Mon Dec 17, 2018 10:28 am

Very interesting read about the keyways. Not that I have any projects in mind, but it's always good to know about your approach.

What I couldn't find any info is about the "broche and guide". Just very curious...
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