Cadflat Bead Roller Project.

Got rust? Seats, panels, doors, windows, etc. The old messages from the NPCA 'Body & Interior' category are here.

Postby Oddbod » Mon Dec 17, 2018 11:12 am

Well, I managed to assemble a couple of pic's to support my keyway post.
The exercise of creating the two keyways and making the key took about 1 hour all up and I was not in any hurry.

Apologies that these pic's are no particular order.

The broche is the toothed bar, then you have the guide which is the round cylindrical piece and the shim.
The broches are ordered according to the width of the teeth, the guide is ordered according to the hole diameter and the shims control the depth of the keyway depth and are added only after a first cut is made by the broche.
I found one shim depth was sufficient for my work.

You can look at the whole process of broaching via a YouTube search.

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Postby Oddbod » Tue Dec 18, 2018 7:12 pm

I've mostly got the lower chain drive & guard worked out and made.
I needed to add the 2nd tier of chain drive to get me close to the speed range I need.
Still waiting for that slow boat from China with my switches...

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Postby Oddbod » Fri Dec 21, 2018 5:57 pm

Well, the boat from China arrived today and I will get started on wiring the unit over the next couple of days.
Kinder lost my train of thought due to the wait, but I am keen to see it run.

I have now installed my switches and wired them into a the main 3 phase circuit.

The VFD is providing power to the motor and from the VFD main panel I have forward and reverse and some level of speed control, but I am of the belief that that is more performance to be had by programming.

I have not wired in my emergency stop or alternative forward/reverse switch and I am still waiting for a momentary stop/start foot pedal.

I still need help with those other circuits and must say I am finding that help difficult to obtain.

Anybody I ask around here seems to run a mile when VFD programming is mentioned. :roll: :o

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Postby Esteban » Sat Dec 22, 2018 4:13 pm

Good news.

The pictures show how good fabricator you are. Great following it coming along

Wish you’ll figure out all the intricacies of the VFD.

Happy Holidays!
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Postby Oddbod » Sun Dec 23, 2018 8:21 pm

Thanks Esteban for your kind words of encouragement and may I wish you, yours and all other folks who have taken an interest in my build a very merry Christmas and a happy G60 4 x 4 new year.

I decided to make a box cover for my VFD unit, so when it is sitting around not being used the unit will be protected from dust and light bumps etc.
I had some scrap off cuts of plastic sheet that I used in my hot rod project as trim backing board.
It is a great product and works much better than the old trimmers cardboard stuff.

It can be easily cut joined, glued and curved with a heat gun.
It can also be planned, shaved, drilled and scored according to ones needs.
I used the old shaving and mixed them with acetone to make a kind of glue which works real well for butt joints.

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Postby Oddbod » Fri Dec 28, 2018 7:55 pm

I came a cross a very informative video that I found helpful in deciphering my VFD manual even though my VFD is not the same make/model as the one demonstrated.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_axxMWkEvsk

So far I have been able to activate the potentiometer which is helpful, however I am not able to raise the frequency value above 50hz which I need to do to provide myself with faster speeds when required.

Presently, my speeds are very slow and great for intricate work but not much fun doing straight line runs.

My unit is a Folinn model BD600 so if anybody out there has any idea or experience that can help me increase my Hz level to something like 100Hz, I would really like to know about it.
It seems by increasing the Hz's increases the motor speed.

I have also worked out and wired up my remote fwd/revs and emergency stop switches, but have held back on hooking them up to the VFD until I have ticked a few other boxes.

I also have my 3 wire momentary foot pedal and would l like to work out how to wire it in.

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Postby Oddbod » Mon Dec 31, 2018 7:26 am

I got my foot pedal and have devised a simple circuit they I expect will satisfy the use of my emergency switch, foot pedal and fwd/rev switch.

I know from reading my VFD manual that I can hook in a 3 wire reverse switch which is what I have, as there are designated tag points for that.

However I don't easily see any such information directing me for my foot pedal or emergency stop switch.

Not being any thing like an expert I have decided to incorporate all items into the one single circuit as per my attached diagram.

I just need to figure out a couple more things with respect to the tags I propose to connect to before I finally commit.

Well, it turns out I am unable to attach my diagram for a pixel issue that I don't seem to be able to beat.

Basically the common wire used to power the rev switch is interrupted firstly by the foot pedal which is NO and then via the E Stop switch which is NC.

Hit the foot pedal and every thing is live and running.
Hit the E Stop switch and very thing has no power to run with.

In a perfect world I am told I should consider running a 3 phase relay directly in contact with my motor and have the E Stop switch isolate power totally from the motor.

I may consider some way into the future, but right now I'd just like to have any E Stop and more on.
Especially one that I can do myself at low cost.
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Postby Oddbod » Sat Jan 05, 2019 3:49 am

After email comments from an Electrical Engineer acquaintance of mine, I have discovered a section in my manual which allows me to key in my electric motor parameters for the VFD to know.

I am getting a little more confident with the process of finding a parameter in the system and selecting a characteristic that suits my demands or setting a characteristic such as max and min motor speeds etc.

So since last posting I had a good sit down in front of the VFD with manual in hand and set a min and max motor speed.
Speed is measured by the number of Hz set in the VFD.
In my case I have set my min to 20Hz and max to 120Hz.

A rough count of revolutions after installing those settings gives me an axle speed range from approx 2.5 rpm thru to 7.25 rpm.
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Postby Oddbod » Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:11 pm

I have discovered quite by accident that once lower than approx 20 Hz there is a real possibility of major heat risk to my motor, so I set my lower limit of running speed to 20 Hz.
Fan cooled motors may overheat if run slow for too long.
The fan has an optimal speed, and the motor will produce more heat being run on lower hertz.

Also new to me is the fact that as the upper speed is increase from 50 Hz, the motors torque performance diminishes quite significantly.
This maybe a concern, but for now I am telling myself that due to the amount of mechanical gearing I have in my drive it should not be noticeable.
Here is hoping it will not... :think:

Previously, I had started compiling a small set of tools that I wanted to have attached to the body of my bead roller, so if any adjustment was required I would have the correct item at arms length to get me by. 8-)

I knocked a small plate that just by good luck covered the open top end of one of my reinforcing members, drilled some holes in it and prepped a couple of Allen keys and a socket as part of my tool kit.

Nothing fancy and pic's even worse but all part of my build. :oops:
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Postby Oddbod » Wed Jan 09, 2019 8:48 am

Both my VFD advisors have been away with work and then vacation so I have just left it on the back burner for now.

In the meantime I have been machining some parts to assemble that are generally sold to assist with straightening and aligning differential housings.

Not wanting to buy one of these kits, I decided that I could replicate it for little money and more of my time than I would prefer, but I do need the machining experience and practice.

I wont be posting that as a thread as I am not documenting it at all.
I do own a Ford 9" housing that is bent and so there will be no harm done trying to get it straight again...

Got to keep the mind busy.
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Postby Oddbod » Fri Jan 11, 2019 3:34 am

Well flying solo, has not worked out for me with respect to programming my VFD unit, so I have sought help from another more specific Forum.

I am being well looked after there right now, but there just seems to be a bug that we have not discovered yet which is causing several malfunctions or sorts.

Here is hoping the guys on that forum will be patient enough get me thru it soon.

For fear of this thread becoming boring while I sort out my VFD controller problems, here are a couple of pic's of my Ford 9" diff straightening and narrowing jig.
So far I have only compiled the alignment bar and control points that indicate whether the housing is straight.
The next step is to make up a stand where the housing can be held and jacked at certain points to get the straight alignment back.

This stand will also be used to hold the housing when cut and narrowed and welded back into its new width.
Again the alignment bar and centers indicate whether the exercise has been successful by showing that all is true and in line...
Tricky business.

I may venture later to building a support jig which allows me to transfer brackets from a different make and model diff and then weld them accurately onto a Ford 9" diff.
The Ford 9" diff is a very common choice as an alternative these days particularly because it handle additional HP well and has many ratio options as well as brake options and axle lengths.

This should keep me off the streets for a while now... :violin:
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Postby Esteban » Fri Jan 11, 2019 9:42 am

Oddbod wrote:...
For fear of this thread becoming boring while I sort out my VFD controller problems, here are a couple of pic's of my Ford 9" diff straightening and narrowing jig...


Very interesting and entertaining. It looks that you don't shy away of any difficult situation.

This reminded me of a bent rear axle housing on a 72 Patrol that my brother in law was servicing from time to time. After one of the rear axles had broken a second time in a matter of weeks, with the owner assuring that he had not done anything odd with the Patrol, they decided to check for a bent housing at a machine shop, and it was effectively out of alignment. They sourced a used housing and it was good to go again.
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Postby Oddbod » Fri Jan 11, 2019 2:16 pm

Thanks Esteban.
I was given an old Ford F100 bent housing which is pretty bad and figured this could be the opportunity to use more stuff out of my junk stash to build/copy a set of items that will allow me first to assess how straight it is.
The center alignment bar remains in the housing during straightening and the end of the bar acts as a indicator as to improvement of straightness during jacking.

I find this stuff interesting and challenging, as I have no machining training and have gradually taken on more difficult tasks that require a greater degree of accuracy.

Hence I am very slow at what I do and sometimes go the long way around and have spent way too many hours standing in front of a lathe achieving small steps.
My lathe is a small locally build pre-WWII unit, which I acquired because it was small and fitted into my workshop space and knowing that I did not have the skills or possibly even the motivation in the early days to make much use of it needed to be low priced.

Once I have this diff straight, I was considering narrowing it as a next step, to a size that is much more sought after, which would then make it more valuable and if sold would help cover my setup costs.

I already have a buddy wanting to use the narrowing capability as well, so owning this unit helps increase ones circle of friends- hahahaha!!!
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Postby Oddbod » Fri Jan 11, 2019 8:21 pm

Jig like this for bracket transfer. :)
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Postby Oddbod » Sun Jan 13, 2019 2:20 am

I finished assembling all the items for doing diff housing straightening, he is a sneak peek. :shhh: :shhh: :shhh:
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