Minion Missile - 1973 Colombian Patrol Project

Builds, refurbishments, restorations, upgrades

Postby RiverPatrol » Mon Jan 14, 2019 10:28 am

Nice work! :clap:
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Postby mad4hws » Mon Jan 14, 2019 9:45 pm

Esteban wrote:If adapting another voltage regulator, this is the one I've installed on mine: MOTORCRAFT Part # GR540B (also at Rockauto) Will need also the connector. I can send what terminal goes where. It's possible that you have now a similar one installed.

Please note that in an alternator, the voltage regulator controls the field voltage of the rotor, and not the total current output that is the case of a generator, so any voltage regulator can be adapted. Generators on the other hand are very particular and require a dedicated one.



Thank you Esteban. My unit looks similar to yours. The female connectors keep coming off, so I need to get tighter fitting ones. If you have a schematic of what goes where, that would be a great help. I have a new wiring harness installed, but I'm sure I can figure out your directions. I will order up a new rotorcraft part just to ensure we're working with the same part. It looks like the original mounting point may have been somewhere closer to the headlights, so that might be where I relocate it - on the other side of the windshield wiper fluid container. In the P engine manual there's a bit of a discussion on the voltage regulator, so I can also refer to it.
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Postby mad4hws » Fri Jan 18, 2019 8:22 pm

I'm cleaning up the frame where the leaking brake fluid had eaten through the paint. Not looking to make this a show car, but do want to seal it up so that more rust is prevented. Question for this esteemed group. Do you see the piece of support metal above the spring bracket? Is that supposed to be there? Initially I had bad thoughts about this maybe being evidence of the frame being spliced together; however, there is no such additional support on the other side of the frame. There is also one on the other frame rail, but also only in the inside. Appreciate your thoughts.

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Postby Esteban » Fri Jan 25, 2019 9:55 am

I've forgotten to take a look at mine to see if that reinforcement plate is there. The quality of the welds look great, almost as if that plate is part of the original fabrication, so I don't think it should be of any concern.

Going back to the voltage regulator, I have prepared the following diagram with where each cable from the regulator connector should go. The Ford voltage regulator has the letters noted stamped in the plastic piece over the terminal blades. The I is separated a little bit more from the other 3, A, S, F. All Hitachi alternators with external regulators from the 70s and up have the same connector, with N (neutral) and F (field) marked. Neutral corresponds to Stator in a Ford Alternator, so basically we have the same terminals.

Voltage Regulator Ford.jpg


Forgot to include the color codes that the Patrol has at the alternator end (all years up to ~79)

F Terminal: WB White with Black line
N Terminal: Y Yellow

Here's the picture you send me of your alternator. It's worth noticing that you have a Painless wiring kit installed.
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Postby mad4hws » Sat Jan 26, 2019 6:38 am

Thank you Esteban. This is more helpful than you know. the Booster/master cylinder set up is really large and there is no room for the regulator where it was mounted, so I have to relocate. With your diagram's it will be easy! Thanks again.
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Postby mad4hws » Sat Jan 26, 2019 8:00 pm

The new booster, booster bracket, Master cylinder and proportioning valve are installed. Today, thanks to Esteban, re-positioned and rewired the voltage regulator. It's a pretty tight fit on that side of the engine bay. The front brake lines are all fabricated and installed. The back ones will have to wait until next weekend. Once those are in, I can put brake fluid in and see if i have any leaks. I also have to get the rest of the suspension installed (sway bars, shocks, travel limiters).




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Postby Esteban » Sat Jan 26, 2019 8:37 pm

Once again, you're doing a neat job in that engine bay. Congratulations. :clap: :clap: :clap:

The voltage regulator is in a good position, and the brake booster combo looks like it always was there.
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Postby RiverPatrol » Sun Jan 27, 2019 11:31 am

Great progress! :clap:
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Postby mad4hws » Sat Feb 09, 2019 5:11 pm

Now that the master cylinder/booster is all fixed up, time to move onto connecting the rest of the front axle.

I found some universal tie rod dust boots from energy suspension. When I installed them though, they went too deep around the tie rod end. They didn't have any of the same size that were just a bit shorter, so I pulled out my tin snips and trimmed off a little more than 1/4". then I took it to the bench sander and sanded it smooth. They now snug up much better (part #9.13119 for those who are interested).

6130

Next, the bushings for the front sway bar, 20mm (part # 9.5124) - they fit really nicely too.

The sway bar end links that I got for the front sway bar seem a bit on the short side. Would like some comments from the group on those who have done replacements. Using the Energy Suspension website, I ordered 9.8122, which is supposed to have a spacer the same length as the one I pulled off (2.5"); however, it is clearly shorter. I found the same thing on the rear sway bar link. Does anyone have any experience with these? It's about an inch shorter, I could go the next size up on the energy suspension universal parts to 9.8123. Thanks!

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Postby mad4hws » Sat Feb 09, 2019 6:06 pm

Another obscure question. Does anyone know of a good headlight adjustment screw set substitute? Mine have a bit of rust and are dinged up. I am taking them apart to send to the plater. The adjustment screws and plastic nuts are shot, so when they come back, would like fresh new ones to install. thanks.
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