Bearing removal on H260 axle shafts

DIYs, FAQs and anything else that doesn't fit in another topic

Postby bgaidan » Sat Apr 13, 2019 2:23 pm

Hi folks! It's been a while!!

I've been putting this off way too long and I really have no excuse. I'd like to actually get the Patrol I've owned for over 10 years, that I've only driven once, running and back on the road!

I've replaced the brake cylinders on all 4 corners and have all new/rebuilt shoes, but I need to fix the leaking fluids so I don't just destroy all the new stuff.

I first had to machine a 6-pin socket to get the bearing retainer nut off. Not like I could find one a the parts store!
IMG_20180715_212117.jpg



I was hoping with the nut off that the bearing would be a light press fit, but I was quickly disappointed. So now I'm stuck at this point and I'd prefer to not destroy the bearing if I don't have to.

Anyone pulled one of these? Any tips? Not sure how different this is from the 216. It's very similar to the H233B, but the 233 doesn't have the 2nd grease seal and retainer so you can easily get a bearing splitter on it.
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Postby Esteban » Sat Apr 13, 2019 9:07 pm

Glad to see you back!

I've been trying to recall to no avail the few times that I have changed those bearings, and if I had your problems. The Service Manual certainly does't help and is very brief (I'm talking the older Service Manual). A later 1978 Service manual, does mention a special tool for taking the bearing and the cage out of the axle. Very cumbersome design, and difficult to replicate. Manual can be downloaded from the Patrolabilia section of the forum.

Removing Rear Axle Bearing.JPG


You probably have to put some penetrating oil, and then, holding the cage by your hands, try to hit the whole axle onto a piece of wood. Numerous blows might be needed to coerce the bearing out of the axle.

Another possibility will be to fit the axle back into the housing, secure with the mounting bolts, and then put some blows to the outer flange of the axle (where the drum mounts). Protect with a piece of wood, and rotate after every blow. (add disclaimer here)

Let us know how it goes and what solution worked for you. Great pictures by the way! Post more.
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Postby nizmut » Sat Apr 13, 2019 10:48 pm

That was the first time in my life I couldn't get a bearing off with out a press.
I am working off memory(that's risky around here) know I removed all the studs. Then I know I used some lowering blocks that came with my 54 Belair, and the blocks that came with the 12 ton harbor freight press I bought that day. Then I am pretty sure that with the studs out you can just get a bite with the largest harbor freight bearing splitter. Your actually pushing against the housing for the race if I remember. The splitter was just wide enough to clear the hub flange. I know that is all the stuff I used, and I stacked it all in there a few times until I got a good bite. I also remember thinking I should of gotten a bigger press on the first axle. Then it popped and everything was good.

I think it was a ford bronco front bearing socket I cut in half to make my tool

20190125_193845-1280x1024.jpg


Heck there is the bearing splitter and lowering blocks laying by the press.
I don't remember having any problems getting bearings and seals, but most seals I get from metric seals.
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Postby bgaidan » Sun Apr 14, 2019 12:05 pm

Between esteban's pic and some stuff I found on another site for H233B, I think I have a plan of attack. Apparently the thing to do is pull against the big flange. I can put something together to make the pullers I have work.
This is apparently the factory nissan tool for pulling the bearing on the H233B:
7dc8ed64b8c98f57c5e25ff21f2ae555.jpg


And the factory tool for removing the nut:
1808dc3cd568f7d8a5dd687b490fdb71.jpg


Almost looks like the same nut as the 260. I need to pull some pathfinder shafts for my Xterra soon. I'll have to see if they're the same:
0bb55da7a36bc09b752b6239e5ca6660.jpg



nizmut wrote:That was the first time in my life I couldn't get a bearing off with out a press.
I am working off memory(that's risky around here) know I removed all the studs. Then I know I used some lowering blocks that came with my 54 Belair, and the blocks that came with the 12 ton harbor freight press I bought that day. Then I am pretty sure that with the studs out you can just get a bite with the largest harbor freight bearing splitter. Your actually pushing against the housing for the race if I remember. The splitter was just wide enough to clear the hub flange. I know that is all the stuff I used, and I stacked it all in there a few times until I got a good bite. I also remember thinking I should of gotten a bigger press on the first axle. Then it popped and everything was good.

I think it was a ford bronco front bearing socket I cut in half to make my tool

Heck there is the bearing splitter and lowering blocks laying by the press.
I don't remember having any problems getting bearings and seals, but most seals I get from metric seals.


Keep in mind this is an H260. They were never available in the US. I'm not sure the entire story on how it ended up under my rig other than I think the PO had it imported along with the 5-speed. I didn't try to source the seals locally since I was already ordering cylinders from Oz, I just had them throw the seals in the order.
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Postby Esteban » Sun Apr 14, 2019 1:30 pm

bgaidan wrote:...
Keep in mind this is an H260. They were never available in the US. I'm not sure the entire story on how it ended up under my rig other than I think the PO had it imported along with the 5-speed. I didn't try to source the seals locally since I was already ordering cylinders from Oz, I just had them throw the seals in the order.


I didn't pay close attention at this. The Service Manual call for the use of regular blocks in the press to support the cage, and then press the axle out. Kind of surprising that they have a special tool for this purpose with the light duty axles.
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Postby nizmut » Sun Apr 14, 2019 10:15 pm

The housing for the bearing is smaller than the drive flange on the smaller axle. So you need to get between the drive flange and housing and still have room to push the axle away. I wasn't sure about pushing against those ears, but it looks like that is the way they do it.
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