Minion Missile - 1973 Colombian Patrol Project

[Esteban]

Interesting about the size differences. I didn't even consider the horn and turn signal differences. Adapting the early turn signal assembly might be tricky, the wiring is quite different due to the later models having hazard lights, the hazard lights run through the turn signal assembly. Of course the connectors are entirely different as well.

No hazard lights on models sold in South America, so using the early style turn signal shouldn't be an issue.

[mad4hws]

haha. Good point!

Doesn't much matter though since I did the wiring upgrade. there's not much left of the original wiring.

[RiverPatrol]

Interesting about the size differences. I didn't even consider the horn and turn signal differences. Adapting the early turn signal assembly might be tricky, the wiring is quite different due to the later models having hazard lights, the hazard lights run through the turn signal assembly. Of course the connectors are entirely different as well.

No hazard lights on models sold in South America, so using the early style turn signal shouldn't be an issue.

Thank you for the knowledge, Esteban!

Hard to believe something smells worse than epoxy.

[mad4hws]

Hard to believe something smells worse than epoxy.

Ann says it smells like the orthodontist and the cement that is used to attach braces to teeth. Or, worse, the mix that is used to make dental impressions... whatever it is, it doesn't bring pleasant memories... Maybe I'll send in a suggestion to add in some bubble gum essence to make it better. Worse yet, when you sand it, it starts to smell all over again.....

As I'm sanding through this stuff, the stench seems to be worth it. It's really difficult to tell the difference between the plastifix and the original wheel material. I would definately recommend this to anyone who is doing a similar repair to hard plastic. I thought I would need more of it, but the one kit is plenty - I don't think I'll use half of it - which is saying something given the amount of material that was missing from the wheel when I started.

[Edgar]

I look forward to seeing the final result. Please include pics when done.

[mad4hws]

here's the update on the wheel. that plastifix stuff works really well. I got all of the cracks filled and sanded. My original plan was to paint the wheel once that was done; however, I kinda like it the way it is. the filled in areas have a story to tell - and this story would be lost if I painted over it... so, we're going to leave as is. If we don't like the look later, we can paint whenever we want. Still needs a little sanding and buffing, but she's going to look good.

the wheel installation will have to wait until the steering column/gearbox is painted. The plan is to paint with epoxy primer, then add a few coats of 2k urethane primer, followed by the Daytona Yellow basecoat and finally topped off with clear. This will give me a little practice with the paint gun in a not so conspicuous spot... More to follow on that front next time.

[Esteban]

That wheel repair looks great, and I like your idea of leaving it unpainted.

What did you use for sanding it, or what grades?

[mad4hws]

Sanding was pretty unremarkable. I knocked down the high spots with the dremel, and used 150 grit to do the heavy work. The wheel itself had lots of micro cracks in it, so it too got the 150 grit treatment throughout. then it was onto 220. I think I can stop at 220.

Last night I got the epoxy primer on the steering gear/shaft. It's raining over the next few days and since I'm painting outside, I'm stuck on other things. I'm still working on finalizing the wiring. The gauges aren't working and after a back and forth with Justin, I discovered a big oversight when I replaced my wiring harness. I neglected to put in a voltage regulator. It sounds like the voltage to the fuel gauge should be 9v. This regulator seems like it would work - appreciate any thoughts from the forum. I'm hoping that I didn't burn out my fuel gauge as a result of this oversight...

https://www.amazon.com/Magnolian-Effici ... 298&sr=8-3

[plateaucal]

It seems to be a regular question, but my Chilton's wiring diagram shows the fuel and temp. gauges being fed by the regulator. Is it the same on all years? IDK, but that is the way it is on my 69.

Nine volts does seem to be the number to shoot for. Gauge regulators were also used on a lot of older cars, however, it is hard to find the specific voltage output.

IMO, doubt you hurt the gauge.

[mad4hws]

Thanks. I'll give it a shot - pretty cheap if it's a total bust. nothing ventured nothing gained.