1967 Family Patrol Project

[faux40]

I decided to expand my water-resistant work-on-cars area. Today I added this:



This evening, I added this!



John

[faux40]

The next project will be to clean up and get the axles ready... so I need something strong to hold them steady to work on! Jay offered to craft up some metal saw horses for me!


Next, a golden package arrived today from Mild Bill (THANKS!) -- In it... Hydraulic clutch parts! Yea, that's right, I plan to ditch that clumsy, lumpy, mechanical clutch linkage for that smooth, gliding control one gets from a hydraulic clutch system!



Progress!
John

[Esteban]

Excellent pictures of the progress, John. Great to see your son working on it as well!

Hydraulic clutch parts! Yea, that's right, I plan to ditch that clumsy, lumpy, mechanical clutch linkage for that smooth, gliding control one gets from a hydraulic clutch system!
John

I have to burst your bubble on this one. In both systems you apply exactly the same effort. You can only argue that the pivots of all the parts on the mechanical will increase a tiny bit the force needed. But don't get me started in reliability.

[faux40]

Excellent pictures of the progress, John. Great to see your son working on it as well!

Hydraulic clutch parts! Yea, that's right, I plan to ditch that clumsy, lumpy, mechanical clutch linkage for that smooth, gliding control one gets from a hydraulic clutch system!
John

I have to burst your bubble on this one. In both systems you apply exactly the same effort. You can only argue that the pivots of all the parts on the mechanical will increase a tiny bit the force needed. But don't get me started in reliability.

Thanks! I love that our Patrol is a family thing. I doubt they'd let me ever sell Aerogirl!

You are absolutely correct -- the effort would essentially be the same. You engineering types! Although I wasn't suggesting an effort change, but a smoothness change. Also, not claiming that a strictly mechanical clutch cannot be smooth... rather, simply boldly claiming MY mechanical clutch linkage was awful!

I really appreciate all the awesome feedback and advice we all get on this board!

John

[faux40]

Quick update -- Rear Axle Week!

I spent a bunch of time wire brushing and pressure washing the rear axle -- boy that is a crappy task!


Then I began the rattle can rebuild with this --


Resulting in this!


Happy Sunday!
John

[faux40]

Put the top coat on the rear axle -- shiny! So shiny that I decided to open it up! Yes, new paint, gooey oil... but then it's clean and more enjoyable to work on!

First drain the oil. Note that shine!


There were a few tiny metal shavings on the plug... that is all of them.


That is the largest piece... it was metal, but soft-ish and easy to bend when I picked it up.


It felt to me that both axles had too much end play. Not front-to-back/top-to-bottom, just the in-and-out. This one appears to have a bunch of shiny chunks around the perimeter... but turns out that its just a shiny grease! Weird.


It's actually pretty clean inside -- somewhat smelly, yes. But no sludge or anything. And the smelly is not super bad... has that new gear oil smell!


The gear wear looks good to me... but then I haven't a clue when it comes to differentials! What do you think?


So, I was thinking of a couple options:
1) Change the two end bearings and seals and probably the pinion seal, then leave well enough alone. I will need a shop to help as I don't have a puller or a torque wrench that goes to over 200 ft pounds!
or
2) Packing the axles on Southwest and showing up on Rob's doorstep and asking for help!

Anybody able to help?

John

[RiverPatrol]

You can do the axle seals and bearings yourself, it's not that difficult. Same with the pinion seal. You don't need a fancy puller, there are 'shade tree' methods to use. Same with the torque. You'll need a gauge to set the end play when it goes back together, but usually just using the same shimmy will be good enough.

[Esteban]

Looks really good!

So, I was thinking of a couple options:
1) Change the two end bearings and seals and probably the pinion seal, then leave well enough alone. I will need a shop to help as I don't have a puller or a torque wrench that goes to over 200 ft pounds!
John

I think you're on the right track on this. Dealing with the axle bearings and seals have been covered before. I'll try to find the links. The good thing is that you never have to add shims, so don't worry about sourcing an unobtanium item. You always take a shim or two to compensate for the wear of the tips of the axles that rub a little bit inside the differential carrier.

The amount of tiny shavings you found looks more than normal. I will be worried if there's a piece of a shim (happened to me).

To deal with changing the seal, the later Service Manual covers that in good detail, even dealing with changing the pinion seal while on the vehicle, with the appropriate torque values in that case (different torque if a new bearing to the case of reusing the bearing) Look for section Propeller Shaft & Differential Carrier.

Regarding the ring and pinion pattern, they look good, and the only way to check it is with the special paint for the contact pattern, and applying some restrictive turning force for the wheel axles. But if ain't broken, don't fix it. Specially with unobtanium carrier bearings that need a different solution. I still owe a write up on how I solved mine.

[faux40]

I'm starting to put together an axle shopping list -- I pulled all the Nissan Part Numbers from the part number book I have; the much of this from the Patrol Parts list and some from posts... I still have a ways to go to find the actual parts in the real world.

Here's what I want to track down before digging in any further...

Rear Axle
Qty	Description	Nissan PN	Alt PN	Notes from Parts DB
2	Outer Grease Seal	40227-32201		Outer Seal: NOS-550225 48x65x7 mm https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOS550225 https://www.amazon.com/48x65x7-Rubber-C ... B00SVIPCFQ (per Esteban)
2	Inner Oil Seal	38212-01300		Inner seal: ATM 2116213 35x55x11 mm https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ATM2116213 (per Esteban)
2	Wheel Bearing	38440-25660		Bower 30208, 40210-85000 NSK 30208 (stamped on the bearing that was on my axle)
2	Bearing and Shaft Lockwasher	43069-44000		Whittet-Higgins W-08 Bearing and Shaft Lockwasher
Front Axle
Qty	Description	Nissan PN	Alt PN	Notes from Parts DB
2	Outer Bearing	40215-45460
2	Inner Bearing	40211-45460	NSK HR 30209J
2	Grease Seal	40227-44001		TCM Part 65X88X12TC-BX. Ebay item --replaces stock part 40227-44001 65 x 85 x 11-5 mm
2	Roller Bearing	40588-44000	RUS305
4	Knuckle Flange Bearing	40215-10360	30304A	HR30304BJ, Equivalent nissan number: 40215-P0100
4	Knuckle Flange O-Ring	40597-44000
2	Grease Seal/Wiper	40578-46500
Differential
Qty	Description	Nissan PN	Alt PN	Notes from Parts DB
2	Pinion Oil Seal	38189-44000		https://www.avxseals.com/Shaft-Oil-Seals-TC50x73x12-p/tc50x73x12.htm

All fun and games!

J

[faux40]

And... Look what just arrived! Something for research! Not saying I'm committed, just thinkin' that it looks good...

Fits a late '70s GMC K15 4x4 -- Discs and calipers are a dime a dozen

John