Thermostat housing

[timber]

The one on the driver’s side is an oil pressure plug. You can connect a separate oil pressure gauge there.

Thanks River and Esteban. Esteban, isn't the yellow circled item the oil pressure outlet? The petcock near the starter and the red circled bolt thing look exactly alike....
I defer to the pro, though. I'm just a newbie, tryin' to learn this beast!

[Esteban]

On that side of the engine you actually have 6 outlets on the oil pressure passage (all are inline) 5 with plugs and the other with the oil pressure sender.

Each hole corresponds to a main bearing location, with the oil filter on another. This engine has 7 main bearings.

[timber]

Thanks again Esteban. You do not disappoint. Tom

[timber]

A few days ago I took out the petcock plug for the engine block which is just above the starter. I had to use a breaker bar to get it to turn. Got it out and the inside part of the plug was very corroded. No coolant came out. I stuck a cut wire hanger in and tried to clear it. Very corroded in the block. Basically mud came out, then after I filled the front end of the engine with water where the water pump should be, the water just came out like a little stream. I though that might be normal since I did not see anymore rust.

Today, I saw what I thought was a mouse dropping just in front of the openings to the engine block where the water pump attaches to the engine (It is off getting fixed). I thought there might be a mouse inside the engine. I again put the pressure washer to it and pulled the trigger. No mouse. Lots of clean water. I looked at the petcock opening (I did not re-install the plug) and I saw no water streaming out. I figured that is weird, so I got come compressed air and blew it into the petcock and all of the sudden a bunch of rusty water gushed out. I kept water flowing into the block through the water pump opening and periodically sprayed compressed air into the petcock opening and held my hand in the flow and a bunch of rust particles continued out the petcock outlet. I repeated the process until there was no more debris coming out the petcock.

I am glad I checked for a mouse because if I had not, the petcock would still be clogged and rust mud and junk would still be in the lowest part of the cooling system making havoc. Bottom line: If you take out the petcock, you should see liquid gush out. If not, then there is something wrong.

The picture shows the power wash wand in the block and water gushing out where the water pump goes. I could not take a good picture of the petcock. I appreciate Esteban for informing me on how to do this task. Now I can put it back together.......

[timber]

I made some progress. s.l.o.w.l.y.... I went to the Doorman website and search for thermostat housings by bolt diameter. I ordered 3 and here they are. All are within a few thousandths of an inch of the original housing. After cleaning everything, I am trying the original housing and hope it does not leak. I cut some gaskets with the templates I found on this site. Plus, since the surface area of the housing and of the water pump were pitted some, I am using grey gasket sealer also (thanks Estaban!). The steel plate that goes between the water pump and the engine block had some sever rust, so I had one made out of stainless steel at the local sheet metal shop ($73). Don't judge me by the fancy paint I used on the components and the fan. I painted the fan stripes that vary 1/4" so I think it should look like a spiral when running. We'll see....

Everything went together pretty good and I used studs vs bolts where I could because I think that is better. The last thing I want to do is strip out threads in the engine block with my poorly calibrated in the flesh torque "wrench". Plus when putting it back together, the components can rest on the studs whereas the bolts and components must be held by each hand (then I smear the gasket sealer and its a half ass mess.

I replaced the old belt with the one that Estaban recommend (sku 19270210) but it is too big (wide) for the alternator pulley, so I now have to order a new alternator pulley (also the one he recommended in another post.

[timber]

I have not been able to drive the truck but only a few blocks since I bought it because of the issues it has had thus far. With that in mind, I did get the alternator bench tested and it put out 50amps (I think) for the test but it looks rough and it has been opened in the past. Also the part number that is stamped on it has worn down so much that I cannot make it out.

Regarding the fan belt, the old belt was worn out and stretched to the max, so I got this new belt Esteban recommended : https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/day ... m=19270210

As you can see in the photos, and I discovered, the belt is too wide for the alternator pulley. So I need a new pulley. This is a link to the new pulley: https://www.just8ns.com/98NAA5825-Years ... gle-Groove

Questions: If I get the new pulley, will it fit on my old Hitachi alternator?
Would I be better off just getting a new alternator with the proper pulley?

I could not find a replacement alternator here in the forum anywhere; will any alternator work as long as the mounts are compatible? Are the mounts standardized?

Thanks,
Tom

[timber]

Here is a better view of everything. Fan housing is still off and the thermostat housings are not on in this picture. That is a fancy fan, isn't it!

[Esteban]

Looking good Tom. I like the personal touches you've put on the engine bay.

Regarding the alternator I have my doubts that it will put out 50 amps. The standard alternator was always only 35 amps with optional ones producing 50 amps. It could have been changed at some point. You could source a replacement using the following part #: 23100-C1100, 23100-C1101, 23100-C1102

I found the following with 23100-C1102, a remanufactured at $87.26
https://www.liftpartswarehouse.com/prod ... -c1102.htm

Or at $111.84 from this other vendor:
https://trupar.com/p/komatsu-forklift-r ... 00-c1102-r

The above should fit right in, since they are for Komatsu forklifts that use the P40 Nissan engine (Komatsu belongs to Nissan). The pulley should be good as well.

A 50 amp alternator will be good for most applications, but if you put an electric winch you might need something extra, so the batteries can be replenished faster. For that, the best alternative will be de Delco One-Wire alternator that doesn't require an external regulator and comes in many outputs and are easy to come by.

There's also a good write up of the electrical connections done by member moore_rb on the older type GM alternator: How-To: Wiring a GM 3-Wire Alternator into your Patrol:

https://www.60patrol.com/forum/viewtopi ... 46&p=29297

You will need to adapt the support. The following pictures are for a made up base that are on a spare engine that I have:

Alternator bracket 1.JPG

Alternator bracket 2.JPG

And there are some universal alternator brackets that can be used:
https://alternatorparts.com/alternator-brackets.html

[RiverPatrol]

Love the custom paint!

[timber]

[quote="Esteban"]

"Regarding the alternator I have my doubts that it will put out 50 amps."

I am sure you are correct!