Harmonic Balancer? Vibration Dampener?

[Gryphyn]

1965 patrol, 4.0 ltr, 6 cyl. has a nasty mechanical vibration in it. Simple question is what dampens the engine vibrations? The front pulley does not appear to have any type of dampening in it and I don't recall there being anything at the flywheel when I removed it for re-surfacing when the clutch was replaced.
A little insight would be appreciated.
G
PS, The 0 timing is not correct when set to TDC

[Esteban]

The P engine on the Patrol doesn't have any vibration dampener, since by default it is statically and dynamically balanced (provided all the individual components are balanced themselves). Very strange what you describe, unless the timing order is not correct, some cylinders are not firing, or a serious problem like a bent connecting rod is inside.

Timing, withing few degrees of the intended target, won't cause the vibrations, like having it at 0 degres BTDC instead of the 10 degrees called, or going even to 15 or 20 degrees BTDC. At least at idle the engine will still run relatively smoothly.

Hope you can trace the vibration.

[Gryphyn]

The P engine on the Patrol doesn't have any vibration dampener, since by default it is statically and dynamically balanced (provided all the individual components are balanced themselves). Very strange what you describe, unless the timing order is not correct, some cylinders are not firing, or a serious problem like a bent connecting rod is inside.

Timing, withing few degrees of the intended target, won't cause the vibrations, like having it at 0 degres BTDC instead of the 10 degrees called, or going even to 15 or 20 degrees BTDC. At least at idle the engine will still run relatively smoothly.

Hope you can trace the vibration.

I confirmed the firing order on more than 1 occasion.

I solved the majority of the vibration by removing the "Dry Rotted" w/pump belt. I also found the relucter is held to the main shaft in the distributor by a small screw. The screw was loose causing the strange timing issue I was having. The relucter was physically moving on the shaft during acceleration causing a crossfire.

Thanks for the info on the engine balancing.
G

[Gryphyn]

Well, it appears L60 is going to have me pull the engine and go through it to solve some of the issues I have found. Naturally it will need at least a set of rings, bearings, lifters (can I regrind the lifters?) and basic components to insure I don't have any further issues when I am done. He is getting a carb from someone in Virginia who apparently has done his share of these carbs. I pray it doesn't have the same issues this one did when I pulled it apart. He feels more comfortable with getting it done that way.
A simple question I have is "Where do I source Parts from?" Are over-sized bearings, pistons, rings etc still available? Will I be polishing the crank? Grinding it? Hone block vs over-sizing? What can we expect while trying to source parts? If any are available? Remember we are in Texas, USA. I have been working on vintage vehicles most of my Career, 36+ yrs. Sources have been drying up on vintage vehicles.

G

[RiverPatrol]

The source for engine rebuild part is Motor Power Inc. Here is a thread: http://www.60patrol.com/forum/viewtopic ... inc#p10904

The lifters are solid so the can be reground, although it is infrequent that they need it especially on a light rebuild. Just remember to mark the lifters and push rods as they come out and put them back in the same order.

Polishing vs grinding, honing vs boring - all depend on the specs when you get it apart. Again, for a low mileage light rebuild you should only need to polish and hone. That is usually left to the machine shop.

Search the forum, plenty of threads on rebuilds.

And while you've got it apart be sure to balance the flywheel and clutch.