60Patrol

Welcome to 60patrol azpatrol! Its nice to have another guy in az here!

Pm sent...

Welcome to 60Patrol! Ask away! There is no such thing as a stupid question.

Check the jumper wire - the wire inside the distributor that goes from where the black wire connects on the outside (from the coil) to the points. It looks like it has been spliced or repaired. I have seen those cause that problem.

Thanks for all the input, to answer some of the questions:

-I do have power coming from the coil

-I have replaced that wire that appears spliced, and was, but to no avail.

-I haven't checked the condenser yet, that was my next step. I had to get home. (patrol is at my work for now, til I convince wifey to let me bring it home. Figured I should probably get the engine going first.) If it is the condenser, are these available? I think I'd still like to get a pertronix even if I do get it going. Would you recommend this rather than replacing the dizzy with a new one?

Can we confirm that this is a true 69'? I've seen to look on the left door jam for a vin plate, no luck. Is it possible this was removed or possibly primered over?

Thanks again for the help!

square turn signal = 69

round turn signal = 68

It can be a 68 1/2 if it has round park lights but registered as a 69. It looks as though this has the vin plate on the rad panel vs the firewall sooooo 69 was the first year they moved it.

uh.... my 68 1/2 with round turn signals hve the vin plate on the radiator support....

The 'true' '69 has the rectangular parking lights, the later style steering wheel, auto-cancelling turn signals, a single wiper motor with the switch on the dash, the map light is mounted to the inside of the glove box door, the tail lights are mounted at the outer ends of the bumper (not in the rear body panels), a back-up light mounted inside of the left rear bumperette and a VIN plate on the left door 'B' pillar. Those are the significant changes.

You should be able to check the condenser with a test light. It should be hot. FYI - they are no longer available but you might be able to find something to fit. The points should be hot also where the arm comes from the junction with the jumper wire connection. Checking with a test light, are there any other places in or on the distributor that are hot? If you've got power coming to the distributor from the coil, and your jumper wire is okay, then from the jumper wire to the points should be hot also. That might help narrow down the problem. What did you use to fix the jumper wire? If you used a regular piece of wire you might be getting too much resistance; it is a special type of wire used for the jumper.

But, you may just save a lot of grief and put a Pertronix kit in it.

bosque wrote:It can be a 68 1/2 if it has round park lights but registered as a 69. It looks as though this has the vin plate on the rad panel vs the firewall sooooo 69 was the first year they moved it.

68 was the first year for the VIN plate on the rad support. It was also the only year that the VIN tag did not have a date of manufacture stamped on it anywhere.

AzPatrol69 wrote:Is it possible this was removed or possibly primered over?

Thanks again for the help!

Before going the Pertronix route, you'll need to make sure that all the mechanisms inside, including the centrifugal advance, all the pivoting of the points plate that move under the vacuum advance, are in good condition. Spray a lot of penetrating oil to all the moving parts first. If all is good then order the Pertronix.

If not, probably going to the new type distributor is easy.

I'm not good typing on the iPhone. The quote should have referred to the Distributor. Sorry.