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Re: Compression test
Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 11:54 am
by RiverPatrol
Actually it's not weird toget such even numbers. That just means that the engine itself is in perfect shape, and that the problem lies elsewhere.
Re: Compression test
Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 8:43 pm
by Coyote Patrol
Reading this i think you are saying that the #5 spark plug is burning the gap on the electrodes? If this is correct and by the compression you have i believe you might have a bad plug wire. So try this, swap that wire out with another cylinder of the same length and see if the problem follows that wire.
If the problem remains with #5 cylinder than you probably have a vacuum leak causing your problem. Can you post a pic of the bad spark plug?
Re: Compression test
Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 9:25 pm
by mattmctree@gmail.com
My engine doesn't run at the moment and I'm wondering if I can still do a compression test cold to verify piston ring and valve condition
Re: Compression test
Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 11:31 pm
by RiverPatrol
As long as it cranks over you can run a compression test.
Re: Compression test
Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 10:55 am
by Esteban
When was the last time the engine run? Was trying to see something in your postings but couldn't find anything.
If it's been a long time, the results from the compression test might be inconclusive. First I will make shure the the engine is moving freely, and that you don't have the piston rings stuck, etc.
Re: Compression test
Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 10:59 am
by moore_rb
Agree-
If the engine turns, then spending the effort to get spark and gas into it would be time well spent. Get it to idle and rev smoothly, and then you can break out the compression and vacuum gauges and do a full validation of the engine's internal condition.
Never assume that you have to rebuild an engine, just because it looks dirty on the outside...
