Moore_rb's 1965 Hardtop Patrol...L60-3-00617

[jwgreen]

What, you mean un-smash it where it looks like someone smashed it with a waffle framing hammer..?

Yeah, I hope I can fix that, too

Otherwise this one might just leak forever.

I thought it looked dented but then I thought it might just be an illusion due to the drop of oil. Guess I was wrong, hope you can work some magic on it.

[moore_rb]

This past weekend I planned to work some more on the 65's engine block and frame, but by the end of the day I hadn't spent a single minute on either one...

instead, I started breaking down parts-donor number 1:

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and I spent several hours doing something long overdue- I started sorting out all my "dp" stamped hardware by size and head-style, getting it ready for its long dip in the de-rusting tank:

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[moore_rb]

I've spent every spare minute over the past 2 weeks with my spinning wire brushes, flapper wheels and pressure washer, cleaning all the scaley rust and dirt off the frame - Today I finally got it all smoothed out and sprayed down with Eastwood Rust Converter - this stuff seals the frame and converts any remaining rust into a flat black finish that helps your chassis paint adhere better to the frame

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A few closeups of some key areas... The battery tray:

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The Steering box:

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Cross member:

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Rear engine mount:

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And then I did a test fit, and some smoothing and straightening of my much-needed passenger side-step, that came in a big box of parts, courtesy of Norville:

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This one is going to have two original side steps on it when I'm done

By this time next week, hopefully this chassis will have 3 coats of gloss black Rustoleum on it...

[jwgreen]

and I spent several hours doing something long overdue- I started sorting out all my "dp" stamped hardware by size and head-style, getting it ready for its long dip in the de-rusting tank

Hey Rob, what's your secret sauce for the de Rusting?

[moore_rb]

Hey Rob, what's your secret sauce for the de Rusting?

for bigger parts, I use a plastic 50 gallon trash can and set up an electrolysis bath using a battery charger, but that only works if you can connect the negative lead to the part being de-rusted.

Since I don't have enough steel baskets to dip all these nuts, bolts and washers in, I will soak them in a 5 parts water, one part molasses solution... it takes longer to de-rust parts using molasses, but the results come out just as clean...

[zed]

I have used CLR or the ZEP (http://www.homedepot.com/s/ZEP%2520rust?NCNI-5) rust remover. It's great for small items. However, the parts can flash rust if exposed to moisture.
Keith

[moore_rb]

I have used CLR or the ZEP (http://www.homedepot.com/s/ZEP%2520rust?NCNI-5) rust remover. It's great for small items. However, the parts can flash rust if exposed to moisture.
Keith

I've used the Zep product as well, and it does work great as a de-ruster, but I agree that flash re-rusting is an issue with any super-acidic solution.

The nice thing about the electrolysis method, as well as the molasses (chelation) method is that they leave a layer of surface oxide on the parts that helps fight re-rusting (it doesn't prevent it, but it slows it way down)

The Eastwood Rust Converter product is also a chelator, and works similar to molasses (although it's quite a bit faster, but not nearly as inexpensive But it was highly impractical for me to soak my entire frame in molasses for 2 weeks ) . The Rust Converter product is nice because it is thin enough to spray, even with a Hudson sprayer - so I could stick the wand from the sprayer into all the holes and slots of the frame and coat as much of the inside as possible, as well .... There were still some deep internal areas of the frame that I could not get to, but overall I am very pleased with how much of the frame I was able to treat -

One other key factor that I think is important is that most really rusty car parts are rusty due to years/decades of exposure to road salt - sodium chloride, and the chlorine from road salt actually binds permanently to the steel- and it's the chlorine that actually oxidizes the metal. When you de-rust a salt-exposed car part using an acid solution, the acid re-activates the residual chlorine, which accelerates re-rusting.

the electrolysis and chelation methods both wipe out all the residual chlorine that has binded to the steel over the years, leaving only native steel, along with some black oxide on top of it.

Not trying to be critical of other people's choices, or the other options out there (this hobby has 10 possible ways to do any task ) - I just wanted to explain my own personal methods, and the reasons why I choose them over other methods...

Next, ask me why I prefer Rustoleum enamel instead of POR15 as a topcoat on car frames.... and I'll give you ANOTHER 2 paragraphs...

[Esteban]

Next, ask me why I prefer Rustoleum enamel instead of POR15 as a topcoat on car frames.... and I'll give you ANOTHER 2 paragraphs...

Please...

Seriously, we need a dedicated thread for this. Too many good tips that are going to be difficult to remember later on.

[pdub]

I like originality as much as the next guy but not sure about re-using any bolts. The metal seems too soft/brittle on patrols. I'm going all original on my patrol except for the bolts. I'm done with drilling out broken ones.

[moore_rb]

yeah, I think most of the Patrol's non-engine hardware is grade 3 at best...

But I don't mind re-using even a soft bolt that has managed to last 50 years. If the threads are good and the rust hasn't reduced the diameter, then a bolt is a bolt, and that little "dp" symbol that is stamped on the original hardware may be a big deal to potential buyers who are looking for originality.

Now, my non-stock Patrol that I am setting up for more dedicated off road use? yeah- that one will get all new hardware.