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Re: Clunking sound
Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 6:41 pm
by Johnny Roadkill
Hi mtnPatrol,
I got a suspension package put together by Industrial Springs in South Australia - the shackles are greasable, cad-plated and correct for the G60, and they came in boxes from EFS (
http://www.efs4wd.com.au/ ).
I could be wrong about this, but I suspect the front suspension on the earlier 160-series Patrol ( MQ ) may share this part with the 60/G60 ?
The front shackle on the MQ is EFS part #GR355K ( 1 pair ) which may well be the part I used, that number sounds very familiar - I'll see if I can find the boxes they came in tonight...as a price guide, Superior Engineering sell these EFS parts for AUD$90/pair.
Cheers
D
Re: Clunking sound
Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 8:01 pm
by mtnPatrol
RiverPatrol wrote:I guess I was trying to give a quick answer to the quick question.
So I just created a new topic instead.
RiverPatrol wrote:There are probably any number of inexpensive shortcuts you can make for shackles, I have seen all kinds of hardware used. Yes, flat steel stock with holes drilled and bolts from the hardware store will work, I've seen it done before. But if you want to do it correctly so you can count on the integrity of the repair, you should get the correct shackles. ToadPatrol's post here describes the parts well, with pictures:
http://www.60patrol.com/forum/viewtopic ... g&start=90
I don't recall the price of the shackles at Spector, but I got the "friend" discount then anyway. Call Spector, tell them that I referred you, and they will be happy to help you.
On the outer end of the springs there is only a metal bushing that is pressed in to the eye of the spring. The shackle pin fits snuggly in that bushing. Since it is metal to metal you want greaseable shackles to prevent wear. You can easily press the bushing in with tools you have at home. But, from what I am seeing you may not need to mess with the bushing, just replace the shackles.
There is not, to my knowledge, a generic replacement for the shackles. It is Patrol specific. The post from ToadPatrol pretty much explains why.
Don't sell yourself short, there are no stupid questions. We were all newbies once.
Okay, great information Leslie. I'm off to read Toad's post.
Re: Clunking sound
Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 8:17 pm
by mtnPatrol
I will give Specter a call tomorrow.
Can the spring or spring mount be damaged by lightly driving it until it is repaired?
Re: Clunking sound
Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 10:06 pm
by RiverPatrol
You can drive it a bit without causing more damage. Go test it out now that you've got it running.
Re: Clunking sound
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 8:16 am
by Esteban
RiverPatrol wrote:You can drive it a bit without causing more damage. Go test it out now that you've got it running.
X2
All the damage is already done, so why bother. Please note that you will need a grinding wheel to dismantle. The pins are probably deformed and will not want to go through the bushings in the spring and chassis.
Re: Clunking sound
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 8:39 am
by mtnPatrol
Yes, finally!
Re: Clunking sound
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 8:03 pm
by mtnPatrol
Before getting new parts I decided I should further assess the ones I have. When I went to take them apart I found that one end of the pin is threaded with a castle nut on it. The other end of the pin is threaded with a zerk fitting in the end of it. Their is no bolt head to hold while turning the castle nut off. What am I missing?
IMG_20160420_200058.jpg
I removed the zerk fitting in the bottom pin in the picture.
Re: Clunking sound
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 8:27 pm
by RiverPatrol
That's the end of the pin that is supposed to stay on the shackle. Normally the end of the pin is knurled and fits into the shackle bracket; the knurled splines keep it from rotating. Since your's are toasted, this is probably where Esteban meant you might need a grinding wheel. Or just a punch and a hammer.
Re: Clunking sound
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 8:37 pm
by mtnPatrol
So normally unbolting the castle nut would not require a wrench on the other end as the gnurling would act as the wrench against the plate? Then you would push the pin out from the castle nut side toward the zerk side?
From what I can see, the lower pin in the picture is beyond toast. I'm still trying to get my head around how this happened. The springs were recently done and the po never got the Patrol on the road. Based on the little I can see of the pin, there is no way he would have reinstalled it as is. And without being driven it couldn't have been damaged after spring installation. Hmmmm....
Re: Clunking sound
Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 10:20 am
by RiverPatrol
mtnPatrol wrote:So normally unbolting the castle nut would not require a wrench on the other end as the gnurling would act as the wrench against the plate? Then you would push the pin out from the castle nut side toward the zerk side?
Yes. I usually use a deep socket that is smaller than the pin and hammer them out with that.