60Patrol

Spark plug brand isn't critical, just as long as they comparable heat range.

Are you running the original mechanical fuel pump or an electric one?

Mechanical. The previous owner had some work performed on it, not sure what. I added a fuel filter (there was not one in line) and thought that could be an issue, so removed and tested. No improvement so reinstalled.

When I install new points should I also install new condenser? Not sure where that guy lives but should be able to find.

Once again, thanks.

Dave

The condenser is either on the outside or inside of the distributor, near the cap. Should be obvious. Depending on how old the non-water protect distributor is the condenser might be okay. For that matter the points should be too unless they just aren't adjusted correctly.

The two fittings on the air cleaner are no longer relevant. Plug and forget. Regarding the vacuum advance, it is a thing but likely not your problem. But it should hold a vacuum when negative pressure is applied, which would be a problem if it leaks air. The plunger can get stuck over time and there are ways of fixing that. But that is another story. If there are no vacuum leaks at the carb or manifold, I am leaning towards electrical. Did you check for carbon tracking or other anomalies inside or outside the distributor cap. Try observing the distributor at night with the vehicle in a dark closed room, engine running. Just kidding. Do it at night with the garage door open. See if you see any sparking. Look for excessive carbon or tracks on the inside as well. Same with the plug wires. Another way to check for spark is to get a timing light and clamp it on each wire in turn to see if it triggers the timing light. Irregular flashes could be an indication of bad spark.

Keep us in the loop, we will figure it out.

I'll second the comments from Plateaucal and RiverPatrol. It looks like electrical in nature as Plateucal points out. Check the carbon tracking in the cap as a first. I will also change the condenser definitely. After adjusting the points, recheck the timing. I'm sure that at the end it will be something simple.

Thanks all. I’ll inspect for carbon tracking as I await points/condenser to be delivered. I’ve also ordered a compression test kit as I think I may have deeper engine issues. This patrol burns oil (as I would think most +50 yo engines do), but does not seem excessive. Could be wrong.

Q: if I had major engine issues, what are my options? Order P40 (forklift engine) longblock, or have my engine rebuilt? Rebuilding myself probably not in my wheelhouse. I really like what I have and want to find a way to get back to daily driving mode. Is a P40 engine a suitable replacement for a ‘69 L60 Patrol?

Again, sorry for the myriad of questions, just trying to find a way to get back on the road.

Dave

Another thought…Have you done a compression test? Perhaps an intake valve is leaking slightly. This can also disturb the low rpm mixture of nearby cylinders. Adjusting the valve clearances can also smooth out roughness.
Mild Bill

Thanks Bill. Compression test on the docket. Will let you know outcome.

Dave

How much oil is it burning, how often do you have to add oil? Are you getting oil smoke from the exhaust? Are any of the spark plugs getting oil fouled? How many miles are on your Patrol?

When I was driving daily (about 25 miles) I would add +/- 1 qt per week. Exhaust looks gray but does not seem to me to be excessive, nor has the amount of exhaust emitted seem to have changed in recent weeks. TMU.

I will perform compression test next week.

Dave