Cadflat HF Sand Blast Cabinet Upgrades Project.

[Oddbod]

My next step was to acquire and install an airflow control vent over the existing opening.
You may recall I have air out pipe at the rear of my cabinet which will go to a vacuum cleaner and now I need to manage my air coming in.
It seems to be about getting the balance right to draw away the dust in the air during the sand blasting process.

I scored this circular air vent controller from eBay that is compatible with the existing hole opening in my cabinet.
So now, I have accounted for air in and air out.
Next will be to direct it inside the cabinet.

I hope this thread is of some help or at least entertainment for you who are interested.
Nothing really hi-tech about it...

[Oddbod]

No real pictures for this post as all I have done is remove the existing light with the intention of adding a much brighter and more efficient LED light unit.

I see that guys, mostly get hold of magnetic strip lights which makes the whole deal so much easier to install.
I was not able to source lights like I had seen on the YouTube videos, but instead found a small lookalike fluoro LED light with a protective diffuser that does have a magnetic base and also a motion sensor.

I am gambling on the fact that this may work and be better than the existing setup was.
It is coming on a sanpan from China, I ordered it a short while ago, but for now at least their is no sign of it.

So in the meantime, I have gone ahead and used a short length of scrap RHS tube as a duct for my electrical feed in, that I have mounted on the external face of the cabinet.
I know that it is not pretty, but I am using what I found in my scrap pile and the RHS will provide me with a mounting structure to hold a small skirting style double GPO and a external on/off switch for my light when it arrives.

The double GPO will be my plug in point for the vacuum cleaner and leaves a spare plug should I require it later.
The vacuum cleaner I purchased new on sale from K Mart, but I see 2nd hand units can be acquired locally for about $50...

[Oddbod]

Now that the air in and out is taken care of, next the rear of the cabinet has an existing vent port (to vacuum cleaner now) which is connected to a duct inside the cabinet.This duct runs vertical and is open both top and bottom.
I need to seal the top end of this duct and will add a similar duct (which does not exist in the cabinet when purchased) to cover the other existing vent port on the side of the cabinet and ensure it is also sealed at the top.

The ducts help to keep the air cross flowing at about work table height and hence more effectively pull the residual dust away.
The problem with the cabinet prior to doing this is the dust builds up inside the enclosure and this makes it difficult to see the work during sand blasting.

[Oddbod]

Well, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel with this project now, but still no light for my cabinet.

As part of installing new glass to my viewing window which is an up grade from the original perspex that came with the cabinet, I noted one guy in the USA decided to make his viewing window one that can be hinged and opened as an alternative access point.
He seemed to suggest it was quicker and easier to get to your part if something was amiss or needed turning over etc.

Since I am in no hurry to have my unit working, I decided to do a similar thing and have done only an average job in my view of making my window an opening type.
I scored a pair of well priced stainless steel hinges from the local hardware store and got hold of a small piece of MDF sheet off cut and pretty much followed along his mod.

I did discover that the original window frame helped support the opening in the sheetmetal of the cabinet and once the frame was removed it was quite warped and floppy.
This prompted me to add a longitudinal support on the under side of the sheetmetal top area pretty much in line with where my new hinges will mount.

Needless to say things came together in the end.
Originally, I thought just the weight of the opening door/window with the glass fitted would be enough to seal it, but upon a second look, I decided to get some cheap hold down clamps and some stick on foam strip to ensure a good seal.
It looks to have down the job and so now I just sit and wait for the mail man to deliver my light...

A post script to this is, the fact that in general it is recommended to remove the existing nut and bolt fixing setup for the window frame as it is an awkward system to deal with when it is time to change the glass/perspex.
It is mentioned in almsot every YouTube upgrade video.
The idea is to create a quick undo system to simply and easily remove the black plastic window frame.
I used wing nuts, however most on YouTube seem to favour knurled rounded nuts.

My only advice is, to use what you have in your shop or what is cheaply and easily acquired locally.
By the way, an alternative method to dealing with the warped sheetmetal opening could be to produce a 2nd MDF opening surround frame (similar to the door that I made) and fix it to the under side of the cabinet, which in hindsight would be the better plan of attack I'd say.

[Oddbod]

This project ain't rocket science but worth while all the same.
I have a job waiting already, once it is finished.
I have some hood hinges I've modified for a project and sandblasting would make cleaning them up a dream.

I've given up on my Chinese lights arriving any time soon.
Buy local where ever possible I say.
I'm onto another LED light locally, which should be fine, just more effort to install it...

Well, my progress continues and I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now.
I scored 600mm long LED light on sale for $15.
Too good to let go.

Turns out the fastening clips were missing, but no problem and now I have a light installed.
Is working and appears to be bright enough, although in saying that, this will be confirmed later during use.

Nothing fancy but should do the job.

[RiverPatrol]

I had one of these very same cabinets, I just sold it a few months ago. The buyer was very eager to have it.

42FD3D8C-133E-468D-9197-32237DB48B08.jpeg

[Oddbod]

Yes, they are very popular from all accounts.
I've not used my cabinet as it came, so have no idea how it performed.

I purchased my cabinet from a disappointed friend who actually had a hot rod shop and felt it consumed too much of his time for little reward.
By other accounts,I have also heard they were disappointed and hence the rise of the YouTube modifications.

I look forward to running my unit once I am done doing the mods.
Going by the YouTube guys there is a noticable improvement.
I'm sure if it works so well, I will use it more and it will become a hand tool in my shop from time to time.
Once you can rely on the performance it will be another weapon of choice.

[Oddbod]

Today, I did a test run with the sand blaster.
I have a pair of hood hinges that I have modified and wanted to clean all the old coats of paint off and repaint them.

The hinges are now employed for my lift up lid on the back of my old F100.
Between weight and size of the lid, plus they were well worn before I got them, it was time to beef them up.

Anyway, back to the sand blaster.
My first hurdle was to work out the right air/sand setting for my hopper sand supply.
Eventually I got it balanced I guess you would call it.
Not for long, as it run adhoc to say the least.
Sometimes delivering sand to the nozzle and other times not.

I discovered that in the hopper just before the sand entered the pipe work, I would get intermittent movement of the sand as if air was being drawn from outside.
Knowing previously that the hopper dump door was not a really good fit, I had previously added a ring of that sponge foam with adhesive on one side and stuck it inside the door to assist with sealing.

I nearly posted here to see what others suggested, but in the end I decided to add an additional layer of even more sick on foam around the hopper neck.
That seemed to improve things, however, when I get more time I will go back and male a really good seal on the door.

Not ever having used this sand blaster in its from the store original form, I can not with any authority claim a really good comparison between before and after performance.
Needless to say, what I was told by the previuous owner and what was said on YouTube, I figure that it is working pretty good.
Mostly, I was sand blasting off old paint which in some parts was well attached to the metal.
The first hinge has taken me about 1 hour to do which included a lot of fooling around time tweeking stuff.

I have posted a before and after pic of the hinge I mention jst for the record.
The other feed back that I can offer to date, is that I will search for a more flexible sand delivery hose and replace the current new piece of hose as it is too rigid for my liking.

Secondly, the previous owner had one glove not quite right and I have now corrected that, it sure makes doing stuff easier if every thing is as it should be.

Third, I can see why those YouTube lower the screen mesh deck inside.

Fourth, having wheels really helped with a good work height.
My thought is, even if you are shorter than me it would be too easy just to set up a small step or board to get the height really nice. I'm 180cm tall and with the small wheels I used it has worked out just right.

Fifth, my vacuum is holding up well and for a small unit and it really pulls the dust away much better than I had anticipated.
I had my circular air/in vent open fully.
If closed it to half the suction is so strong, it picks up the gloves and holds them out horizontally.
If it can go the distance and not burn out I will be a happy man.
I checked the vacuum recovery chamber and all was good, only a very small/minute quantity of grit fragments, as would also be expected in a patent recovery unit, which we touched on previously.
I have not checked my filter as yet but will do so soon and post an honest account.

Sixth, lighting is good, but a second LED in another location would be good, as in some situations a shadow can be annoying.

Finally, for now at least, I plan to add a 45 degree angle piece of sheet metal strip to cover the flanged connection joint, where the panels bolt together.
So much sand collects there that should be running back down into the hopper.
I think, if I ever lower the mesh deck I would also remove the channel under supports to the mesh and replace them with some kind of prefabbed angle section, so the sand would just run off.
Presently, the sand sits on top of all the channel supports.
I dont think that I'm being too pedantic about this stuff, as I see bad sand return defeating the purpose of the recycle sand system that I am using.

[RiverPatrol]

Congratulations! Nice work as always.

[faux40]

Thanks for the updates! I'm toying with following your lead to improve my blast cabinet

Fifth, my vacuum is holding up well and for a small unit and it really pulls the dust away much better than I had anticipated.
I had my circular air/in vent open fully.
If closed it to half the suction is so strong, it picks up the gloves and holds them out horizontally.

Just a caution -- a few years ago I was dabbling with the vent on mine and admiring the way the suction would inflate the gloves (deflate? -- weird... it's a vacuum). Anyway, I guess I got a little greedy and closed off just a little more vent and almost instantly the window glass shattered!

j