Bosque 67 Patrol

[Coyote Patrol]

Nice to see you back Dave, one thing we didnt talk about is the power supply to the coil. Is it good? should be battery voltage at idle as well as revving. Maybe run a temporary power from battery to the + side of coil. When you do this it will stay running with key turned off until that wire is pulled off the battery. Have you had the chance to see the spark at the coil wire while cranking? What does the advance plate look like in the dist. Is anything excessively loose?

[Swerve]

Thats one neat engine bay

Welcome back Dave, can you be sure you have a constant 12v at the coil ? plus the earth to the dizzy has no loose connectors ?

[50car]

Hey Dave, Great to see you here! Another item to check is your advance on the distributor. If you are revving up and something has let loose inside the distributor, the weights may be allowing it to advance or not advance properly... Need to check the diaphram for the vacuum advance to make sure you haven't ruptured it. Does it have plenty of fuel? blocked fuel filter?

Good luck with the issue.

[bosque]

I have been derelict of duty to my Patrol is the biggest lesson, keep up on maintenance.
I could not done any of the following without the help of a few of you and especially Ron for walking through some good lessons over the phone.
The wires were a problem that needed fixing first. BTW, I do have good spark from coil wire now. At idle it sounds normal, although I do hear a bit of tap so I'll adj valves again. Having swapped out a cracked exhaust manifold eliminated other problems. Unfortunately I can feel suction coming from the diz side vac tube at idle. This means the vac advance is engaging at idle which means my Hitachi VC-42 is doin' the funky chicken. For brevity sake I will swap it out with a GM Rochester I was rebuilding anyway.
Funny thing is that a little problem with the carb, exhaust, old plugs & wires can add up to big confusion. Diagnosis tricks are primo!
Some vid of the current state...

[moore_rb]

Looks and sounds to me like the accelerator pump might be part of the problem...


with the engine off, and looking down the throat of the carb- can you see raw gas get squirted into the throat when you cycle the throttle..?

[Esteban]

Dave, glad to have you back. I had to download the video since it was not playing.

Looks and sounds to me like the accelerator pump might be part of the problem...

with the engine off, and looking down the throat of the carb- can you see raw gas get squirted into the throat when you cycle the throttle..?

I'm with Robert on this one. The accelerator pump system is not working. The engine otherwise sounds perfect. Also, nice to see the valve in the exhaust manifold working while you work on the gas.

If you raise slowly the rpms, let say to 2000 rpm, does the engine remain at it without hesitating?

[moore_rb]

Dave- I read back through a couple of the last posts regarding the timing and the vacuum - and if it is true that your vacuum advance is being activated at idle, then the timing is worth checking again -

the timing should be on the 10 degree mark that you have painted white, and it should be on this mark at idle with the vacuum advance totally disconnected, and the vacuum port on the carb blocked off.

Once you are sure you have this 10 degrees of initial timing dialed in, then you can look for a vacuum port on the carb that is not active at idle -- does your carb have 2 vacuum ports? if so, then one should be constant vacuum (which you would feel at idle) and the other should be ported (meaning you will only feel the vacuum at higher sustained cruise-level RPM's)

if you have a ported outlet, then that is the place to plug in your distributor advance

The constant vacuum port is where you would plug in the vacuum lines that lead to the body of the distributor, and are used as part of the water-protection system.

[bosque]

Dave, glad to have you back. I had to download the video since it was not playing.

Looks and sounds to me like the accelerator pump might be part of the problem...

with the engine off, and looking down the throat of the carb- can you see raw gas get squirted into the throat when you cycle the throttle..?

I'm with Robert on this one. The accelerator pump system is not working. The engine otherwise sounds perfect. Also, nice to see the valve in the exhaust manifold working while you work on the gas.

If you raise slowly the rpms, let say to 2000 rpm, does the engine remain at it without hesitating?

Thanks Esteban. I have to brush up on uploading vids/pics again but I see it working.....?
I have one last thing to finish on my rochester rebuild.....do I need to make a hole in the provided throttle body to manifold gasket? It lack this and would cover a single port in the body bottom.
You know my druthers is to run with the awesome Hitachi VC-42 but I am amped to drive a strong Patrol today! Before I take the Hitachi off I'd like to go through the things you and Rob't have suggested for knowledge sake.
Gas does cycle in the carb....I just had to light a match to see down the carb mouth!!! No....I did not......
It seems to hesitate when raising rpm.

[Esteban]

...
Gas does cycle in the carb....I just had to light a match to see down the carb mouth!!! No....I did not......
It seems to hesitate when raising rpm.

Dave, with the engine not running as Robert suggested, check to see if the accelerator pump is injecting fuel through the small pipe in the middle of the venturi.

If you raise the rpms little by little, the accelerator pump does little, so once you keep it a a steady 2000 rpms, does the engine hesitates or not? This is to check whether it's starving of fuel or not.

[bosque]

Dave- I read back through a couple of the last posts regarding the timing and the vacuum - and if it is true that your vacuum advance is being activated at idle, then the timing is worth checking again -

the timing should be on the 10 degree mark that you have painted white, and it should be on this mark at idle with the vacuum advance totally disconnected, and the vacuum port on the carb blocked off.

Once you are sure you have this 10 degrees of initial timing dialed in, then you can look for a vacuum port on the carb that is not active at idle -- does your carb have 2 vacuum ports? if so, then one should be constant vacuum (which you would feel at idle) and the other should be ported (meaning you will only feel the vacuum at higher sustained cruise-level RPM's)

if you have a ported outlet, then that is the place to plug in your distributor advance

The constant vacuum port is where you would plug in the vacuum lines that lead to the body of the distributor, and are used as part of the water-protection system.

Thanks for the guidance Rob. I was going to video blowing smoke near the vac tube to demonstrate the suction but I passed out from the cigarette smoke.
I did have the pulley mark at 10* and the diz ended up at 0* at about 500rpm.
I did not block the carb side, just took off the diz side. I can time again of course. I am a bit unsure about the vac ports...there is a brass plug left of the only port I know of.