60Patrol

How do you minimize flash rust.
Keith

Honestly, not sure! My plan is to prime the outside right after drying it, then rubbing some oil (wd40) on the inside.

Ideas?

John

I was always under the impression that metal needs to be primed as soon as it's stripped to prevent flash rust. Bare metal is going to rust.

Baking soda mixed with distilled water may neutralize the acid. I recommend not using tap water (impurities including chlorine.)
Keith

So, I pulled the parts out of the vinegar bath and "rinsed" them with the pressure washer. Honestly, I only needed to "gently" wash them off... the rust really just rinsed away. It was pretty exciting!

Check out the fresh parts! I hand dried them immediately after their bath then put them in front of a fan to finish drying them off. The surface rust was already starting!



So, a quick wipe down with acetone and slapped some conversion primer on the parts to stop that surface rust in its tracks!



Next into the dip... the bell housing goes into the dip! Here are the before pics... That surface rust is deep!



Sadly, the "dip" is not quite deep enough to get it all submerged at once (and I already have to dispose of 13 gallons of vinegar... I don't wanna add more), so I plan to flip it every 12 hours or so. This is the part that was submerged for first 12 hours... Still has a way to go, but you can see some clean metal around the edges!


J

I pulled the bell housing out of the vinegar bath and gave it a pressure washdown

These two were taken at 2:57pm moments after the wash down was done. Looks great! Nearly all the rust and crust are a thing of the past!



As soon as I was done pressure washing, I gave the bell housing a wipedown with a towel, then set it in the hot California sun (97 degrees today) with a fan blowing on it to speed the dry off. I took this picture at 3:51pm -- just a mere 54 minutes later

Wow! What were we saying about flash rusting?


Next I gave it a quick acetone wipe down, then covered it with a rust-conversion primer (the same black stuff I used on the pan and valve cover... I just forgot to take a picture of it), then two coats of the blue engine paint. I didn't worry about bolt holes, mating surfaces or the brass bushings -- I'll clean those surfaces and replace those bushings later... I just don't want any avenues for rust!



Gettin' closer and closer... well, still a long way from drivable, but it's nice to see progress!
j

Looks great John!

Like candy! Excellent job with the vinegar.

Dang! You do good work. Thanks for the play-by-play.

Your easy outs are like mine: neither easy nor out....

This has been sitting on my hydraulic lift table, hiding in a dark corner of the garage since December 22, 2014! It's rebuilt and raring to go! Plus, once this is on the engine stand, I get my lift table back!

Here's the post when we brought this engine home from Mother's Machine Shop! https://www.60patrol.com/forum/viewtopi ... 250#p25250

Really, the only reason why this one is going into Aerogirl and not the rebuilt engine that was in it previously is that this engine is Aerogirl's original engine, so it serial number matches the VIN tag... but that does lead me to my side note, as Aerogirl goes back together, I think it's probably time to part with some of my extra patrols and parts (including the other rebuilt engine with just 1,500-ish miles on it that number-matches one of my parts Patrols!)

Enjoy your Friday and long weekend!
j

Incredible. Seems like I read that post 3-4 years ago.

Makes sense your choice!