60Patrol

r1lark wrote:I'm surprised that no one has asked about the notches cut out in the outside edges of the backing plates.................

I’ve used that space to fit a piece of flat plate to drive out the drums with a hammer. But probably not the intended use…

Esteban wrote:

r1lark wrote:I'm surprised that no one has asked about the notches cut out in the outside edges of the backing plates.................

I’ve used that space to fit a piece of flat plate to drive out the drums with a hammer. But probably not the intended use…

Yep, that's what they are for. Originally I just had the edges of the backing plates bent out in those places, but wanted to make it look a little better.

I could not help but notice that the prior number was PL-2, makes me wonder about the PL-1 and what it fit? I have a couple sets of M49 as well. Cool brochure and original box.

Progress update...............

This past weekend, got everything ready to go work on the Patrol on Monday. Loaded up all the parts, and the tools that would be needed. Packed the wheel bearings, installed the grease seals in the hubs, and packed the stub axle bearing that's installed in the spindle. Didn't take too many pics of this work, but here are a few including the hub seal box with part number:' Monday was the trip to my Mom's where the Patrol is stored. The goal was to get the spindles, backing plates, hubs, drums, and the Warn lockout hubs installed.

Had already greased the Tracta joint pieces on the axle stub shaft really well at home, so just had to add some to the end that was still in the knuckle. I did use some Permatex Aviation Form-a -gasket on the spindle where it attaches to the trunnion (knuckle) since there is not a gasket here. No picture of that, but the Aviation Form-a-gasket is a brushable sealant that's been around since probably before WWII. it's good stuff, I used it on a lot of things. Here is the backing plate and spindle bolted to the trunnion (knuckle): The thing to make sure of when bolting these on is that the grease 'weep channels' in the spindle are pointing down and match up with the channels in the backing plate. I had preassembled all the brakes onto the backing plates at home, except for the springs. Put them on after some confusion on my part as to which spring went where. The pics in the shop manual aren't the best, but got it figured out.

Got the hub out, along with the spindle nuts, thrust washer, and the lock washer: Had some worry when I tried to install the outer wheel bearing and it seemed like it wouldn't fit over the spindle! But some gentle tapping to get the bearing over the threads on the end of the spindle, and it was fine. Spent quite a bit of time adjusting the spindle nut. Finally got the bearings adjusted to give the 1-3 ft-lbs of turning torque required. Didn't take a picture of this process, but used a small fishing scale, and used stainless wire to attach it to one of the lug studs on the hub. Had already measured the distance from the center of the stud to the center of the spindle to calculate the ft-lbs of torque. Honestly, this put the bearings tighter than I would have adjusted them 'by feel', but decided to stay with it. I was right at 1 ft-lb of torque. Will just have to keep an eye on the hub temperature once I start driving it. Here is a pic with the spindle nut, thrust washer, lock washer, and outer lock nut installed. QUESTION: the lock washer, which nut should the washer be bent over onto? Couldn't figure out a to bend it 'outward' onto the outer nut, so I used a punch to bend it over the inner nut. Seems like it should be bent over the outer nut, but if so, how??? Next step is to measure to determine what shims need to be used between hub and the drive flange (or, in my case, the Warn lockout hubs). Using a straightedge against the end of the spindle, measure the distance between the straightedge and the face of the hub. This is the amount of shims that need to be installed. The only reason I can see for these shims is to provide clearance between the end of the spindle and the drive flange (or lockout hubs). I used feeler gauges to determine the gap, and came up with .021-.022". Luckily I had two shims that had measured out at .011" each. Estaban asked for a picture of how to take this measurement, so here it is, and the second pic shows the two shims: Next, the snap ring was installed on the inner groove of the axle stub shaft: Then, slip the body of the Warn lockout hub (or the drive flange if you are not using lockout hubs) over the axle stub shaft, and install the outer snap ring: Then, the cover of the lockout hub with the gasket can be installed, and bolted on. Since I couldn't find any of the correct locking tabs for these bolts, Blue Loctite was used on the bolts. For the washers underneath the bolt heads, I cut the 'tabs' off the incorrect locking tabs that I got from Walcks 4WD to create plain washers. This is nothing against Walcks 4WD, they list these locking tabs for use on Jeep Warn hubs, which are configured different than the Patrol Warn hubs. I hoped they would work on the Patrol M-49 hubs but no luck. Be sure to put the shims on before installing the locking hub (or drive flange) or you will have to take this back apart to install them.........ask me how I know this......oops. Install the brake drum and the job is done. Couldn't resist taking a picture with the wheel & tire installed on this side. The Warn lockout hubs look really cool installed, but they really stick out far! Seems like they would be easy to damage when driven off road: Couldn't do the other side this trip, since I had some things to do for my Mom. But this Friday will be another trip to get the other side together, and move the Patrol off the carport to its winter storage area.

Looking good!

Your descriptions of the work done, coupled with the pictures and part numbers, is outstanding. Congratulations again. Excellent reference.

Thanks for clarifying the setup of the shims. That picture is straightforward and definitely better than the descriptions in the Service Manual.

Regarding bending the lock washer for the front hub bearings, I‘ve done the same as you (inwards) Almost impossible the other way around and very difficult to have them tightly bent over the nut. And at the end, when times come to dismantle again, the washer will come out easily. Thanks.

Thank you Esteban for the kind words, and for your comments about bending the lock washer.

Update.........went to work on the Patrol today. Got the drivers' side spindle/hub/brakes reassembled, and the wheel back on. No pictures because it was the same thing as the passenger side. Luckily I had just the right amount of shims left (total of .025"). Had to pull the passenger side wheel back off because I forgot to put the two little screws in that hold the brake drum to the hub.

Decided to start the engine up and let it run and get to operating temp. Cranked it for a while to get gas up to the carb, pumped the accelerator, but would not hit a lick!?! It had been starting almost immediately even after sitting quite a long time (weeks, months). <sigh>

I know it has fuel, I actually ended up flooding it, could smell it. Even sprayed some carb cleaner (didn't have any starting fluid, but this carb cleaner can said it was 'extremely flammable') to see if it would at least hit on a few cylinders, but nothing. Pulled the distributor cap, and did have spark at the points. Didn't have much with me to do troubleshooting, but as much as I cranked it and it never hit a lick, it probably has no spark. Pulled the condenser out, and brought it home to check to see if it's gone bad (ie, internal short so it grounds the points). Just got home, haven't checked it yet.

Just had to vent a little...............

Well, checked the condenser with the ohm meter this morning, and it has not gone to ground internally. I believe that, without specific test equipment, this is the only test that can be done on the condenser........but input to the contrary would be much appreciated.

I guess next trip (after Christmas) will be a troubleshooting trip.

It's always something, isn't it.

Packing up for a trip tomorrow to the Patrol. Primary work will be to figure out why it would not start last time. Will put the condenser back in, verify the point gap hasn't changed, and try it again. Still kinda befuddled since points, condenser, and coil are all new and it was starting so easily earlier in the year. Will provide a report tomorrow night.