Starter

Won't run? Engine, cooling system, fuel pump, carb, clutch, tranny, brakes, etc. The old messages from the NPCA 'Engine & Mechanical' category are here.
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Re: Starter

Post by mtnPatrol »

For now, I plan to reassemble and install my starter with the existing spring. If I can find a replacement spring, and the starter continues to occasionally grind, I will take it back out and replace the spring.

At the suggestion of the starter guy I talked with today, I bent the broken end so that it now matches the rest of the spring and will seat correctly and then I stretched the spring a small amount.
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Re: Starter

Post by Esteban »

mtnPatrol wrote:After finally getting my starter disassembled I was able to give it a good cleaning. The Model P Service Manual recommends polishing the inside of the core if it is rusty. Does that mean the case where the coil field is? Should you clean the poles?
The service manual is referring to all bare metal exposed areas of the armature and the poles that the coils wrap. Clean all traces of rust, and then apply a light coat of oil to prevent rust (to be honest, I've never done this except for cleaning). Avoid any oil at the commutator area, since it could ruin the carbon brushes.
mtnPatrol wrote:After a good cleaning I was able to further inspect my starter. Again, mostly everything looked good. There was a bit of wear on the rear case bushing (#19). As I looked closer, I noticed a good sized recess that extends approximately 25% of the way around the bushing. It is fairly wide as well. The recess is near the far end of the bearing. In it sits something like felt. That material was only in about half of the recess. Is that recess and material supposed to be there?
The felt there makes sense to keep some of the oil that you should apply from time to time through the exterior of the cap. In fact, the owner's manual recommends 5 or 6 drops of engine oil periodically in the oiling port. Don't over apply the oil, since it could end up splashing over the commutator.

Thanks for all this mtnPatrol. With your efforts all of us learning and are probably looking to give it a try at dismantling and servicing the starter.
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Re: Starter

Post by mtnPatrol »

I hadn't even noticed the oiling port. Now the recess and felt make sense. So to oil externally, you depress the oiling port ball and add 5 or 6 drops? Here is a picture for those wanting to do an external service of their starter. You can see the ball on the top of the protrusion on the back plate.
IMG_20160308_104916.jpg
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Re: Starter

Post by mtnPatrol »

Starter went back in today. While she is now clean and well-oiled, the unfortunate news is it didn't make a darn bit of a difference. It still regularly grinds. My guess is that it is likely due to the wear on pinion gear.

The only thing I have to show for all that work is a hole in my thumb where my scribe slipped and stabbed me :clap:

Since mine grinds more than occasionally I'm going to get a new starter. Will this one do the trick: http://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-SHI ... B00AWMRLGM?
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Re: Starter

Post by Esteban »

mtnPatrol wrote:Starter went back in today. While she is now clean and well-oiled, the unfortunate news is it didn't make a darn bit of a difference. It still regularly grinds. My guess is that it is likely due to the wear on pinion gear.

The only thing I have to show for all that work is a hole in my thumb where my scribe slipped and stabbed me :clap:

Since mine grinds more than occasionally I'm going to get a new starter. Will this one do the trick: http://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-SHI ... B00AWMRLGM?
Too bad about the finger!!

The starter part number in the Amazon link certainly matches the newer type starter and the price is unbeatable. Good find! I was checking with a link that I saved, but it was broken. The newer type of starter is more powerful (1.2KW compared with 1KW of the older type, and on top of that it's lighter.

By any chance, did you try to adjust the bolt at the solenoid? Maybe turning in about 1/16" or so to see if it makes a difference. It's possible to just take the solenoid out and leave the starter in place, although it's cumbersome to work there.
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Re: Starter

Post by mtnPatrol »

Esteban wrote:
mtnPatrol wrote:Starter went back in today. While she is now clean and well-oiled, the unfortunate news is it didn't make a darn bit of a difference. It still regularly grinds. My guess is that it is likely due to the wear on pinion gear.

The only thing I have to show for all that work is a hole in my thumb where my scribe slipped and stabbed me :clap:

Since mine grinds more than occasionally I'm going to get a new starter. Will this one do the trick: http://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-SHI ... B00AWMRLGM?
Too bad about the finger!!

The starter part number in the Amazon link certainly matches the newer type starter and the price is unbeatable. Good find! I was checking with a link that I saved, but it was broken. The newer type of starter is more powerful (1.2KW compared with 1KW of the older type, and on top of that it's lighter.

By any chance, did you try to adjust the bolt at the solenoid? Maybe turning in about 1/16" or so to see if it makes a difference. It's possible to just take the solenoid out and leave the starter in place, although it's cumbersome to work there.
I didn't try that but I will give it a go tomorrow before I order the new starter. It is worth a shot. I want to make the arm shorter, correct? So it is a bolt you turn rather than a nut you loosen? Do you turn the arm at all or does turning the bolt take care of the length?
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Re: Starter

Post by Esteban »

I think there's a smaller nut that you loose first and that will allow the head with the two prongs to rotate. The idea will be to shorten the length of the head so it moves the drive gear a little closer to the flywheel.

The idea is that the drive gear ends up fully engaged before the starter turns.
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Re: Starter

Post by mtnPatrol »

Sounds good. Will report back.
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Re: Starter

Post by mtnPatrol »

I pulled the solenoid off today. To adjust the arm length you have to loosen two nuts and turn the arm. I shortened it by 1/16". That was the free length that I lost in my spring.

I put it back in and, while it still ground a couple of times, it seemed much better. Out of 20 turns of the key it only happened 2 times. Before it was closer to 50%. However, I was just bumping the starter to see if it caught on most of those attempts. Perhaps with normal use it will still happen with the same regularity. Until I get my water pump back and installed I am going to hold off on ordering a new starter. Once I have the water pump on I can test the starter normally.
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Re: Starter

Post by andy1963patrol »

Hi mtnpatrol! did you fit the starter you purchased from amazon? and did it work?

I'm having issues with mine right now and am looking at possible options!

Thank you!
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