60Patrol

Thank you both. Ok, based on your input I'll leave the tube there because it runs very good as is, plus it may get a WP distributor later.

Then, Eddy plans to switch to an alternator in time. I want him to do the brakes next. He has an OEM alternator bracket being delivered this weekend. I've asked for remanufactured American Vs new Chinese.

It I recall, from way back, the head lights are much stronger with alternator.

Patrolling clandestinely,
(This one still on the super down low)
L60Boerne

Greetings Patrol Whisperers,

Please take a look at the re-assembled carburetor Eddy did for me.

Question- Is it supposed to have a insulation spacer between the carb and exhaust manifold?

I have several, so it needs one for sustained hot operational with a minimum chance of vapor locking then now is the time to put it on.

I'll look forward to your reply when we get into our jungle hut which is claimed to have wifi.

Patrolling by foot this week,
L60Boerne

Yes, it needs the insulator.

Greetings Patrollees,

Eddy is getting to work on the dash now. The knobs provided within the forum sure look great!

Eddy the Eagle just completed the fuel tank replacement with new sending unit from Columbia.

The fuel gauge isn't working. Assuming it is not the new sending unit what can be done to fix the gauge itself?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Almost Patrolling in Phoenix Patrol,
L60Boerne

The fuel gauge sends voltage to the sender -- the sender acts like a variable resistor to ground. The closer to zero resistance, the more fuel you have. The more resistance, the emptier the tank. (Although some cars reverse this)

A couple ways to test.

1) You should see voltage between the wire and ground when the ignition is on.
2) You can quickly short the sender wire to ground to see if the needle jumps. (If you're worried about shorting it, put a 100 ohm resister or a small light bulb between the sender wire and ground) -- BUT ONLY DO THIS FOR A FRACTION OF A SECOND.

If the needle jumps, the problem is in your sender. If it does not jump or no voltage at the wire to the sender, the problem is with the gauge.

john

Thanks John, very much appreciated.

L60Boerne wrote:Greetings Patrollees,

Eddy is getting to work on the dash now. The knobs provided within the forum sure look great!

Eddy the Eagle just completed the fuel tank replacement with new sending unit from Columbia.

The fuel gauge isn't working. Assuming it is not the new sending unit what can be done to fix the gauge itself?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Almost Patrolling in Phoenix Patrol,
L60Boerne

Also check the gauge regulator. It feeds the fuel and temp. gauges. If it is not working, neither of these gauges will work.

plateaucal wrote:

L60Boerne wrote:Greetings Patrollees,

Eddy is getting to work on the dash now. The knobs provided within the forum sure look great!

Eddy the Eagle just completed the fuel tank replacement with new sending unit from Columbia.

The fuel gauge isn't working. Assuming it is not the new sending unit what can be done to fix the gauge itself?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Almost Patrolling in Phoenix Patrol,
L60Boerne

Also check the gauge regulator. It feeds the fuel and temp. gauges. If it is not working, neither of these gauges will work.

The '66 doesn't have the gauge regulator, that started in '67. And I think it only feeds the temp gauge as I recall, but I could be mistaken.

Thanks to all.

That makes sense. The early gauge I brought to David is a marvel of complexity compared to the later fuel gauge which has one moving part. On my 69, the gauge regulator does feed the fuel gauge and temp. gauge; according to the wiring diagram and my experience. But I will review that diagram as soon as I can find my reading glasses.