). The ones on it now are pretty rough as the following pic shows:
Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
Pic of the painted front bumper:
But I am needing two decent headlight rims, and a decent center grille bar. If anyone has any for sale, please message me (not looking for show quality cause this Patrol ain't show quality ). The ones on it now are pretty rough as the following pic shows:
). The ones on it now are pretty rough as the following pic shows:
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Paul
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
Well, about a week ago I was able to drive this thing............now, it's back to being an immovable lump under my Mom's carport. 
The next steps were to rebuild the carb, make up a new exhaust system, and fix the leak(s) between the exhaust manifold and head. So, yesterday the carb came off, pulled what was left of the exhaust downpipe off, and pulled the manifolds off.
Found a few more problems than I expected:
1) Broke off the very rear rear manifold stud. This was the location of one of the exhaust leaks, and I'm thinking having the exhaust leak blowing on the nut caused it to rust very thoroughly onto the stud. At least there is enough sticking out to weld a nut to and try to extract it. Really do not want to have to pull the head to drill this puppy out! Bad thing is the heater outlet (with integral shutoff valve) is right above the stud, and I'm not sure what to use to get the outlet unscrewed -- can't really get a wrench on it, and can't get a socket over it. Any advice?
2) The exhaust pipe "flange" that holds the pipe to the exhaust manifold is broken in two. Are these available?
3) The rear-most manifold exhaust port gasket surface (where the worst leak was) seems kind of rough, so the manifold assembly may need to go to the machine shop to get surfaced. Will have to clean it up and evaluate, of course. This is where the worst exhaust leak was.
4) The rear-most exhaust manifold flange is cracked at the bolt hole. Not sure about repairing this, since cast iron is difficult to weld properly so it doesn't crack again. Nothing has broken off, just a clean crack all the way through. Of course I'll clean it up and evaluate, but my thinking now is to make sure the nut and washer have a good flat surface to tighten up against, and leave the crack there. Any advice?
The next steps were to rebuild the carb, make up a new exhaust system, and fix the leak(s) between the exhaust manifold and head. So, yesterday the carb came off, pulled what was left of the exhaust downpipe off, and pulled the manifolds off.
Found a few more problems than I expected:
1) Broke off the very rear rear manifold stud. This was the location of one of the exhaust leaks, and I'm thinking having the exhaust leak blowing on the nut caused it to rust very thoroughly onto the stud. At least there is enough sticking out to weld a nut to and try to extract it. Really do not want to have to pull the head to drill this puppy out! Bad thing is the heater outlet (with integral shutoff valve) is right above the stud, and I'm not sure what to use to get the outlet unscrewed -- can't really get a wrench on it, and can't get a socket over it. Any advice?
2) The exhaust pipe "flange" that holds the pipe to the exhaust manifold is broken in two. Are these available?
3) The rear-most manifold exhaust port gasket surface (where the worst leak was) seems kind of rough, so the manifold assembly may need to go to the machine shop to get surfaced. Will have to clean it up and evaluate, of course. This is where the worst exhaust leak was.
4) The rear-most exhaust manifold flange is cracked at the bolt hole. Not sure about repairing this, since cast iron is difficult to weld properly so it doesn't crack again. Nothing has broken off, just a clean crack all the way through. Of course I'll clean it up and evaluate, but my thinking now is to make sure the nut and washer have a good flat surface to tighten up against, and leave the crack there. Any advice?
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Paul
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
Well it seemed pretty straightforward at the beginning. Bummer.
You should be able to get a stud puller on that broken manifold bolt without having to drill it out. I've always been able to get a wrench on the shutoff valve to remove them.
I might have an exhaust manifold, headers actually, if you need one.
You should be able to get a stud puller on that broken manifold bolt without having to drill it out. I've always been able to get a wrench on the shutoff valve to remove them.
I might have an exhaust manifold, headers actually, if you need one.
Beyond any hope for intervention
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
Sorry about the broken flange.
I was searching for alternative exhaust flanges. Came up with this site:
https://azcncmanufacturing.com/collecti ... bo-flanges
However, I don't see a 2" I.D. flange with 3" between the studs. But probably other sites might have. There is the collar that goes inside the exhaust pipe at the flange, and the flange seems to have a space to accommodate it. Are you planning on reusing the upper portion of the exhaust pipe? Otherwise, the collar might not be an issue with some other flange.
And regarding the crack on the manifold at the mounting hole, I think you'll be ok with a thick washer, much like the ones that are in the intermediate ports.
I was searching for alternative exhaust flanges. Came up with this site:
https://azcncmanufacturing.com/collecti ... bo-flanges
However, I don't see a 2" I.D. flange with 3" between the studs. But probably other sites might have. There is the collar that goes inside the exhaust pipe at the flange, and the flange seems to have a space to accommodate it. Are you planning on reusing the upper portion of the exhaust pipe? Otherwise, the collar might not be an issue with some other flange.
And regarding the crack on the manifold at the mounting hole, I think you'll be ok with a thick washer, much like the ones that are in the intermediate ports.
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
River, thank you for your comments. I apologize for waiting so long to respond. I did get a stud puller, and hopefully that manifold stud in the head will come out ok. Fingers crossed. Tried getting a wrench on the heater shutoff valve, but it won't work for me -- between the firewall so close, and the rear engine lifting hook that is held in by the shutoff valve, there is essentially no room to move the wrench. I'm making a special tool to get the heater shutoff valve out, will post some pics in a few days.RiverPatrol wrote: ↑Sun Nov 17, 2024 11:07 am Well it seemed pretty straightforward at the beginning. Bummer.
You should be able to get a stud puller on that broken manifold bolt without having to drill it out. I've always been able to get a wrench on the shutoff valve to remove them.
I might have an exhaust manifold, headers actually, if you need one.
Thank you for the offer of the exhaust manifold, but I think I can make mine work. Not really that worried about the crack in that one ear, and Esteban concurrs (see below post). I've had to do additional repairs to the manifold, between drilling out studs, heli-coil repair, and some weld build up. I'll post an update soon.
Paul
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
Thank you Esteban. And my apologies for taking so long to respond! I looked at the site with the exhaust flanges, but agree that they really don't have a ready-to-use flange that would work on the Patrol. And my flange (actually two pieces of a flangeEsteban wrote: ↑Mon Nov 18, 2024 1:36 pm Sorry about the broken flange.
I was searching for alternative exhaust flanges. Came up with this site:
https://azcncmanufacturing.com/collecti ... bo-flanges
However, I don't see a 2" I.D. flange with 3" between the studs. But probably other sites might have. There is the collar that goes inside the exhaust pipe at the flange, and the flange seems to have a space to accommodate it. Are you planning on reusing the upper portion of the exhaust pipe? Otherwise, the collar might not be an issue with some other flange.
And regarding the crack on the manifold at the mounting hole, I think you'll be ok with a thick washer, much like the ones that are in the intermediate ports.
) is just too rough for me to accurately reverse engineer a duplicate. Beside, I really don't like this type of flange used with the flared exhaust pipe end. I'm much more used to just a flat flange, so I've decided to make one of those. Update on that really soon. Thanks for your opinion as far as the crack in the exhaust manifold mounting ear. It backs up my thinking on the crack, that trying to repair that crack is not really necessary (and probably would just crack again).
Paul
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
Updates:
Heater connection/shutoff valve at rear of head -- this needs to come out to be able to get the stud remover on the broken exhaust manifold stud. I can get a wrench on the valve but because of interference between the firewall and the rear engine lifting hook, there is no room to turn it. Here is what it looks like: Came up with a tool design using a couple of old sockets and a piece of tubing split down the center. Bored out the 1/2" drive area of the 7/8" socket on the lathe: Forgot to take pics of the rest of the construction, but here is the finished tool; it's not pretty but should work: The slot in the 7/8" socket and the half-tubing allows the tool to fit over the valve and outlet nipple, and then the 1/2" drive socket piece on the end allows the use of a rachet to get the valve and lifting hook off.
Intake and Exhaust manifolds -- knew that these two manifolds would have to be separated. Here is one reason - a 'blowout' of the gasket (or so I thought) between the intake and exhaust section: Got the two apart relatively easily, the three nuts came off pretty easy with the impact on low setting. Decided to tackle the exhaust manifold outlet studs first. Soaked those with PB Blaster for 3 days until it appeared the penetrant was wicking all the way thru the threads: Used my new stud remover that really grabs onto the studs. Unfortunately, the penetrant had not done as well as I thought.........should have heated them with the torch. Broke both of them off, the first one slightly below the surface of the manIfold, and the break was at an angle -- the hardest situation as far as getting the first drill perfectly centered. The second one broke off about 3/4" above the surface, so was able to cut that one, file it flat, and get the center drilled accurately. The first one I ended up using a heli-coil since the first drill ended up being off center. The second one drilled out and tapped great. After getting the studs drilled out, getting the old gasket off was a bear to do. Since these manifold gaskets were most likely asbestos based, the gasket material had to be kept wet, and no mechanical means could be used (ie, no grinding, etc). Finally got the exhaust outlet flange looking good; here is the flange after finishing with a honing stone: Next started on the gasket between the two manifolds. This one was even tougher because I didn't want to try to pull the two long studs out. Remember the pic of this joint (above), where it looked like just part of the gasket had blown out? It was not only the gasket, guess that having this area blown out for many years had eroded the exhaust manifold in this area; unfortunately I forgot to take a picture of this area 'as found'. Decided to build it up with MIG weld. While trying to weld cracks in cast iron with MIG is problematic, just building up surfaces works well. Here is a pic of the built up area in the process of being dressed down: After final dressing and honing, I was happy with the repair (don't look at what looks like a big crack between the studs ):
More updates tomorrow.
Heater connection/shutoff valve at rear of head -- this needs to come out to be able to get the stud remover on the broken exhaust manifold stud. I can get a wrench on the valve but because of interference between the firewall and the rear engine lifting hook, there is no room to turn it. Here is what it looks like: Came up with a tool design using a couple of old sockets and a piece of tubing split down the center. Bored out the 1/2" drive area of the 7/8" socket on the lathe: Forgot to take pics of the rest of the construction, but here is the finished tool; it's not pretty but should work: The slot in the 7/8" socket and the half-tubing allows the tool to fit over the valve and outlet nipple, and then the 1/2" drive socket piece on the end allows the use of a rachet to get the valve and lifting hook off.
Intake and Exhaust manifolds -- knew that these two manifolds would have to be separated. Here is one reason - a 'blowout' of the gasket (or so I thought) between the intake and exhaust section: Got the two apart relatively easily, the three nuts came off pretty easy with the impact on low setting. Decided to tackle the exhaust manifold outlet studs first. Soaked those with PB Blaster for 3 days until it appeared the penetrant was wicking all the way thru the threads: Used my new stud remover that really grabs onto the studs. Unfortunately, the penetrant had not done as well as I thought.........should have heated them with the torch. Broke both of them off, the first one slightly below the surface of the manIfold, and the break was at an angle -- the hardest situation as far as getting the first drill perfectly centered. The second one broke off about 3/4" above the surface, so was able to cut that one, file it flat, and get the center drilled accurately. The first one I ended up using a heli-coil since the first drill ended up being off center. The second one drilled out and tapped great. After getting the studs drilled out, getting the old gasket off was a bear to do. Since these manifold gaskets were most likely asbestos based, the gasket material had to be kept wet, and no mechanical means could be used (ie, no grinding, etc). Finally got the exhaust outlet flange looking good; here is the flange after finishing with a honing stone: Next started on the gasket between the two manifolds. This one was even tougher because I didn't want to try to pull the two long studs out. Remember the pic of this joint (above), where it looked like just part of the gasket had blown out? It was not only the gasket, guess that having this area blown out for many years had eroded the exhaust manifold in this area; unfortunately I forgot to take a picture of this area 'as found'. Decided to build it up with MIG weld. While trying to weld cracks in cast iron with MIG is problematic, just building up surfaces works well. Here is a pic of the built up area in the process of being dressed down: After final dressing and honing, I was happy with the repair (don't look at what looks like a big crack between the studs
):
More updates tomorrow.You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
Continuing the update............
In my last post, the last picture showed the defect (crack?) in the outlet area of the exhaust manifold.Here is another pic: Looks kinda ugly, doesn't it? The good news is that it does not go thru to the inside of the exhaust port; in fact, it doesn't look like it goes very deep at all. Given that I have not been impressed with the casting of this manifold, this could be a casting inclusion. Will it crack all the way thru next year? Don't know, but don't think so. Given the difficulty in welding cracks in cast iron, and especially the location this defect is in, the manifold is going back on. I will fill the opening on the gasket surface area with a very high temp steel epoxy that I've used before for similar issues.
The heat riser is still free, and the shaft hasn't wallowed out the bushings, so this will stay as is. If someone has a NOS thermostatic spring that they would sell, let me know since this one has lost a lot of its tension. Part number is 14022-58000 (or supposedly p/n 14022-34200 will work).
Got the intake manifold gasket surfaces cleaned also; again, a major amount of work dealing with the asbestos plus these gaskets were really hard and really stuck to the cast iron! Few pics:
Getting the paper gasket off both sides of the carb spacer was even worse than those asbestos gaskets since I didn't want to damage the spacer, but finally got that done:
Exhaust Flange:
The exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold 'flange' was broken in half, and in pretty poor shape......bad enough that trying to reverse engineer it and make a new one on the lathe may or may not have worked. Besides, I've never dealt with one of these type of exhaust pipe connections where the pipe is flared at the end but still has a flat gasket -- much more used to a flat exhaust flange. So, decided to make a flat flange out of a piece of leftover 3/8" steel plate (always save the cutoffs! ). Had already settled on using 2" OD exhaust tubing, so bored a 2" hole in the plate, and slightly over 3/8" holes for the studs, and then cut away everything that didn't look like an exhaust flange. This will use the stock Patrol gasket.
Started fitting new hoses, but only got as far as the bypass hose. When these are done (hopefully this coming Monday when I go to my Mom's house), will post pictures and part numbers of the hoses I used. Also hope to get the rear heater connection/valve removed on Monday, as well as the broken rear exhaust stud on the head.
In my last post, the last picture showed the defect (crack?) in the outlet area of the exhaust manifold.Here is another pic: Looks kinda ugly, doesn't it? The good news is that it does not go thru to the inside of the exhaust port; in fact, it doesn't look like it goes very deep at all. Given that I have not been impressed with the casting of this manifold, this could be a casting inclusion. Will it crack all the way thru next year? Don't know, but don't think so. Given the difficulty in welding cracks in cast iron, and especially the location this defect is in, the manifold is going back on. I will fill the opening on the gasket surface area with a very high temp steel epoxy that I've used before for similar issues.
The heat riser is still free, and the shaft hasn't wallowed out the bushings, so this will stay as is. If someone has a NOS thermostatic spring that they would sell, let me know since this one has lost a lot of its tension. Part number is 14022-58000 (or supposedly p/n 14022-34200 will work).
Got the intake manifold gasket surfaces cleaned also; again, a major amount of work dealing with the asbestos plus these gaskets were really hard and really stuck to the cast iron! Few pics:
Getting the paper gasket off both sides of the carb spacer was even worse than those asbestos gaskets since I didn't want to damage the spacer, but finally got that done:
Exhaust Flange:
The exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold 'flange' was broken in half, and in pretty poor shape......bad enough that trying to reverse engineer it and make a new one on the lathe may or may not have worked. Besides, I've never dealt with one of these type of exhaust pipe connections where the pipe is flared at the end but still has a flat gasket -- much more used to a flat exhaust flange. So, decided to make a flat flange out of a piece of leftover 3/8" steel plate (always save the cutoffs!
). Had already settled on using 2" OD exhaust tubing, so bored a 2" hole in the plate, and slightly over 3/8" holes for the studs, and then cut away everything that didn't look like an exhaust flange. This will use the stock Patrol gasket.
Started fitting new hoses, but only got as far as the bypass hose. When these are done (hopefully this coming Monday when I go to my Mom's house), will post pictures and part numbers of the hoses I used. Also hope to get the rear heater connection/valve removed on Monday, as well as the broken rear exhaust stud on the head.
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Paul
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Re: Rehab of Patrol L60-2-00655
Paul, congratulations on the work done. 
Beautiful pictures with all the details and what you're doing at every step.
I was concerned yesterday with the crack in the manifold, but after reading your explanation I'm sure you'll be right.
Hope you'll find a replacement for the bimetallic thermostatic spring. When mine broke, everything had so much wear that I decided to cancel the mechanism, and welded the axle in the open position, or should I say in the warm engine operating position. In cold weather the carb struggles a bit until warm.
Beautiful pictures with all the details and what you're doing at every step.I was concerned yesterday with the crack in the manifold, but after reading your explanation I'm sure you'll be right.
Hope you'll find a replacement for the bimetallic thermostatic spring. When mine broke, everything had so much wear that I decided to cancel the mechanism, and welded the axle in the open position, or should I say in the warm engine operating position. In cold weather the carb struggles a bit until warm.
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