60Patrol

Back on the Patrol. With the repair of the exhaust manifold completed (last fall ), it's time to mate the intake and exhaust manifolds. I debated whether it would be better to bolt the manifolds to the head and then tighten the two manifolds up, or figure out a way to bolt them together first. Finally decided, right or wrong, to bolt them together before installing them onto the head. This way I could make sure the faces of the manifolds are even, and the joint between the two manifolds is tightened evenly.

Here is the gasket that seals the two manifolds, a NOS Datsun/Nissan:
I've got a slab of granite (the cut out for the kitchen sink when the kitchen was redone) that is super flat, so hopefully will be perfect to clamp the two manifolds down to when bolting them together. Here are some pictures of the manifolds clamped to the granite slab: The clamps are primarily used for metal fabrication, in my case sheetmetal work on old cars. I didn't have enough clamps to clamp every point, but moved the clamps around until both manifolds were tight against the granite.

Interestingly, the two long studs are 3/8" fine thread, and the short bolt is 3/8 coarse thread. I torqued the nuts on the two studs, and the one bolt, to the recommended torque for grade 5 fasteners with fine thread (35 ft-lbs) and coarse threads (32 ft-lbs). For low torques like these, I like to convert the values to inch-pounds and use the in-lb torque wrench:
The stud nuts and the bolt got high temperature never seize applied to them:
Cleaned up the special washers, nuts, etc so they are ready to install. The stud is to replace the very rear stud that broke when taking the manifolds off:
And a little bonus............for those who have wondered what the heat riser valve looks like, and which way is "open" (i.e., normal warmed up position), here are a couple of pictures. I'm pulling the weight towards the exhaust manifold, which is the open position:

Excellent pictures and explanations as always . Very easy and entertaining to follow.

Years, years ago, the bimetallic spring that actuates the heat riser valve broke on my Patrol. There was no spare available and on top of that the axle of the valve had worn out a bit and the opening was creating some back fire noises from time to time. The solution for me was to place the valve in the normal opened position and weld shut the valve axle at the pivot holes in the manifold. Obviously I have some problems in cold weather, but after some 10 minutes everything goes to normal.

Thank you for the kind words Esteban! There was a heat riser spring on eBay a while back, but if I remember correctly it was $100+ My spring still seems to work, although it looks a little rough.

Finally some progress! "Other stuff" has really kept me busy lately. Over the last couple of weeks, I've been able to spend some time on the Patrol.

Did a final cleaning of the head and the studs in preparation for re9nstalling the intake/exhaust:
Pulled the "sleeves" that were in a couple of the head ports, and put them into the same ports on the intake, and installed the gasket. This is a NOS Nissan gasket, so the last thing I wanted to do was mess it up. The sleeves would hold the gasket on the intake/exhaust, and help locate the assembly. I've heard a lot of folks throw these away, but thought they would be of value for this.
Installed all the washers and nuts and torqued to 25 ft-lbs per the later Patrol service manuals:
Decided not to reinstall the heater block off valve in the rear of the head for right now, so chased the pipe threads with a tap and installed an allen head plug with some sealer:
Decided to clean up under the hood and inside the cab a little. The wiring for the extra lights on the hood (used when plowing, had taken these lights off already), the hydraulic snow plow valve & rod/handle, the trailer brake intensity adjuster, and the trailer brake control in the cab all came out. Here is a pic of what was removed. The hydraulic snow plow valve was saved, but the rest of the stuff was trashed:
Next is to get the carb reassembled (everything is clean and ready) and get it installed, and fab up the exhaust.........and it will be a runner again!

You do good work.

Thanks River. But this project has really challenged me to keep my OCD from taking over! For example, not painting the intake manifold, and not blasting and coating the exhaust manifold, and not cleaning and painting the block while the intake/exhaust were off. Oh yeah, and not taking pieces off the engine to get the paint color matched. But I said this was going to be a "get it running and preserve it" and I'm trying to stick to that.

I'm more of the 'get it running' mind myself also. I don't need it to be shiny, just run well.

Progress! The Hitachi VC42 carb rebuild is done: The full rebuild will be on the sticky in the How-To sub-forum, still working on the reassembly part of that post.

And, back on the exhaust system. Started mocking up the bends to match what little I have left of the original headpipe:
This is the muffler I'm thinking of using. It was purchased for one of my Studebaker trucks as part of a stock exhaust system, but changed my mind and put a stainless dual exhaust system on it. It has a 2" inlet and outlet. Hoping this will fit under the passenger side door area, and still provide room to kick the exhaust outlet out just in front of the rear tire.

That muffler looks like it should work. Congrats on finishing the carb.

Got the first part of the exhaust pipe tacked together. I'll take this, the other 90 deg bend, and the muffler late this week when I go to my Mom's and figure out what needs to be added to put the muffler in the right place.

At some point, I'll have to take my welder with me so I can tack weld the flange (that bolts to the exhaust manifold outlet) in the correct position.