60Patrol

Another stupid q: What is the recommend method to disconnect the Pitman arm from the draglink? YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME FOR HELPING ME OUT!!! I am a long term motorcycle guy who has caught the PAtrol restoration bug bad and am learning as I go....

It’s probably caked with crud, but the end of the drag link is screwed in. It’s adjustable.
Mild Bill

poinrobe wrote:Another stupid q: What is the recommend method to disconnect the Pitman arm from the draglink? YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME FOR HELPING ME OUT!!! I am a long term motorcycle guy who has caught the PAtrol restoration bug bad and am learning as I go....

The end where the cotter pin goes through is threaded- remove the cotter pin, and put a REALLY BIG flat head screw driver in the slot and unscrew the cap

(or: What I found was a steel punch with a 1 inch flat head, and a hex-shaped body that accepts a 5/8 wrench. I blunted the end of the punch with my grinder so it fits in the slot like a giant screwdriver, then I hold the punch in the slot, and use the wrench on the punch to break the cap loose)

Once the cap is off, the internal ball rider will pop out with a pair of pliers, and then the arm can be wiggled around until the ball on the pitman arm slips through the top slot/gap on the arm.

and of course, you're doing all of this blind, since the assembly is still inside the rubber boot once the ball can slide through the slot, you have to stretch the neck of the boot around the ball to pop everything apart....

Or, you can tear the boot. which leaves you with another dilemma, because the boots for LHD Patrols can be pretty rare to find, and the best substitute Toyota boot that I've found is quite a bit smaller, and takes extra stretching to get it all back together.

you could use a drag link socket - which is much better flat head than any screwdriver:

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J5 ... 556&sr=8-1

When I was doing this on the Minion Missile, I started off using the toyota drag link rubber; however, I later learned that new-datsun-parts.com has these. They're not cheap ($35 each, you will need 2), but they are way better than the Toyota imposters... These were also pretty expensive if memory serves

http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/nissan- ... parts.html

mad4hws wrote:you could use a drag link socket - which is much better flat head than any screwdriver:

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J5 ... 556&sr=8-1

When I was doing this on the Minion Missile, I started off using the toyota drag link rubber; however, I later learned that new-datsun-parts.com has these. They're not cheap ($35 each, you will need 2), but they are way better than the Toyota imposters... These were also pretty expensive if memory serves

http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/nissan- ... parts.html

Agree- the drag link socket is the superior tool, but my old 40 year old steel punch was free...

We have three Patrollers in Lake City today. Mark left with a couple of hard tops for his 66. What a great guy. He really understand mechanics of machine and man.

We will see him back here again and we are looking forward to it.

Patrolling away from a few parts,
L60Boerne

So I am Going to try to resurrect this thread. Despite my lack of posts, I have been working diligently on this project and it is progressing.



Today's questionPertains to the engine.Specifically the intake manifold. When I disassembled the motor I found a sleeve between one of the outermost intake ports and the manifold. It was deformed aa it appears it was not aligned correctly during assembly. See pics below.

My question is: is this sleeve a part of the original assembly and if so what purpose does it serve?

Is the part you are referring to pm this diagram?
https://www.carpartsmanual.com/nissan/p ... e/manifold
Keith

Here is the picture

zed wrote:Is the part you are referring to pm this diagram?
https://www.carpartsmanual.com/nissan/p ... e/manifold
Keith

Thats it! Thanks. My parts diagram didn't include that image