An open forum for all enthusiasts of the classic 60 series Nissan Datsun Patrol to gather and share information and gain knowledge. Members share off-road stories, restoration advice, modification ideas in an atmosphere free of a single controller. The fo
I am trying to think through all the implications of going totally topless on my Patrol - as in windshield down, softtop frame and door window tops removed. I know I can fully remove the entire door but for some reason I kinda like having that bit of protection there to keep me in the vehicle (you know, in hard cornering!!! ).
Question: if I undo the 7 screws that hold the door window frame/channel and then remove it, is the glass inside the door still held securely or do I need to remove it too? If the latter, I likely will abandon this line of thinking all together but I have seen pics like the one below where this has been done. Thoughts?
Here is OffRoadKid's from 2015 with the look I am thinking about:
T4.jpg
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I have two distributors. One from my 77 (first image) and another spare year is unknown - perhaps an early 60s.
Looking at the governor springs (see images). The one from my 77 has two springs but different sizes . The other has only 1 spring (I assume one is missing)!
Its not clear in the manual if the springs should be the same.
Should I take the one spring and replace the short other spring?
How much difference does the governor weights/springs make to the running of a G60?
dissy 1.JPG
dissy 2.JPG
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Not sure if I will get there.
Not sure if I will get back.
But I usually do!!!
Peter, most probably the springs are a set, just like in your first picture. However, in one Parts Manual, they are the same in the drawing and were sold as a set.
I was reviewing some pictures I took 8 years ago when I change the vacuum advance and serviced the rotating plate that holds in place the points. The plate rotates with the vacuum advance, and the cam of the distributor changes its angle with the centrifugal advance (governor springs). Of all the pictures that I have of the dismantle, according to Murphy's Law, I'm didn't take any pictures of the centrifugal advance. Sorry.
The centrifugal advance is key and very important. Some European cars of the 70s only had that system and not the vacuum. In your case, if one the springs have been changed, you might be getting more advance at high rpms, or sooner. You can check if the advance is correct with a little bit of patience, if you have a tachometer and a timing light. According to the manual, you should get 8 degrees more of advance at 1045 rpm than at 400 rpm (you probably have to disconnect the vacuum advance for the test) So if you have 10 degrees at 400 rpm, you should get 18 degrees at 1045 rpms.
Very few of us here in the States are running that distributor with the exception of those who had installed an aftermarket distributor instead of the waterprotect original one. For that reason, it will be difficult to get an answer for your question. Hope some of the Aussie members can chime in.
Just rcatching up reading through this thread for the first time in about a year. Once again I am amazed with all the helpful people out there, especially Esteban! A real 60 champion. Cheers, sir.
Ignition switch purchased on eBay from Mid East. Not sure if switch is bad or wiring incorrectly. This was sold as never used had lots of nissan keys. And some weird ones with horses. Seamed to be in order when I received. After installing as per the instructions. I find the acc. Won't work or get power. Although it will turn over as it should when the key is turned to start position. I am not a wiring genii use by any means. Any way to know for sure if switch is bad or do I have it wired incorrectly. Not really sure this is an omen switch or something they are passing off. I had a bargain which from schucks installed and operating fine. Just liked the idea of fancy nissan keys and Orem switch. Any one help with sure fire test? Don't really want to pay auto electric guy. Thanks.
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