60Patrol

Greetings to all Patrolles,

The aftermarket "smoothies" arrived today and Eddie says they fit! Thanks again Rob. Eddie painted them today, then rubbed them in the dirt a bit for authenticity. Tomorrow they will be mounted and balanced. By Thursday we should be road testing the new disk brake set up.

Now, I have an extra set of conventional OEM 16" rims. I have an idea for those.

We are confident this will work and I look forward to using those disks on the trails in CO over the 4th.

More to follow,
L60Boerne

Greetings to all Diskless Patrollees,

Eddie finished reassembly of the disk brake upgrade this morning. It works! He says it will not skid to a stop as it might need a booster for that but otherwise it is safe and approved for duty. Thank you to Justin for getting this lined out and organized.

Justin's disk upgrade is a recommended upgrade and much safer when a dual reservoir MBC is included. Please just be aware you will need new rims if you still have OEM rims.

Rolling and Patrolling,
L60Boerne.

Congratulations!

Hi L60boerne

Thanks for the update. I've ordered a set of Justin's brackets. It good to hear you are happy with the result.

Did you use a proportioning value? I have a duel MBC with booster and unsure if a valve is necessary. I guess time will tell.

Hi Peter, Yes we used the proportional valve. I’m not sure what it does but Eddie made the bracket for it today.

L60Boerne wrote:Hi Peter, Yes we used the proportional valve. I’m not sure what it does but Eddie made the bracket for it today.

David, on cars without ABS like our old Patrols, if during a stop you lock the rear wheels, you will loose control of the vehicle easily, specially on wet pavement. If you lock the front wheels but not the rears, the vehicle tries to stay in course, and you still have the steering to help you. That the reason of the proportioning valve that prevents full pressure from going to the rear wheels. This issue is more important when you have disk brakes at the front and drums at the rear. Disk brakes although they have a more precise braking, require more pressure of the system to lock the wheels than the rear drums. So to prevent the rear drums from locking, the proportional valve actuates limiting the pressure in the lines to the rear.

The original Patrol brakes have a simple feature to prevent locking the rear wheels to some extent, by providing double brake cylinders at the front, and only single cylinders at the back. Like double the force excerpted at the front wheels that at the rears.

Thank you Esteban, they is my experience. Full braking results is a controlled rolling stop. Mountain testing to begin Sunday.
Rolling and Patrolling,
L60Boerne

Greetings from the High Country,

It turns out that the high high country trails don’t open until late June due to snow. By that time it is hot enough to cause vapor locks after about 45 minutes in low 4. I understand and have returned to Patrolling after cooling the carb with water. However it locks at the worst time or at least when options for stopping on relatively flat ground are a low probability. So I don’t press on into deeper trouble after it restarts I head downhill.

My question is…..knowing the block is cast iron ….how long of a run has anyone had in low 4 after you have cooled the carb bowl? 15 minutes? 30 or longer?

I’m thinking that bowl will quickly reheat from the still hot cast iron block. These trails are legit and I can expect another hour in low 4 uphill to reach the trailhead or destination. Don’t forget a UTV might very well need to get around me on these one track trails while I’m cooling down at a frightening incline.

So if you have experience with the vapor lock cool down cycle please share.

FYI - all vehicles with a carb over exhaust manifold arrangement will have the same problem which includes Jeeps and most other carbureted motors. Why? Cheapest way to build a motor.

Electric fuel pumps help a little, but I like my mechanical ones.

Rolling and Patrolling,
L60Boerne

In all the Patrolling I've done, even at high altitude, I've never experienced this problem even during the heat of the summer. I don't know that anyone has regularly. That makes it a tough question to answer.

Whats the altitude and temperature? I've had vapor lock in an old fiat. Just had to wind the clock to fix it....

Fuel vaporizes easier under less pressure / higher altitude as I'm sure you know. It may also be heating up in the fuel lines from the fuel pump around the front of the engine. Can you insulate those lines somehow?

I am running a rubber fuel line from the fuel pump up over the valve cover to the carb. I'm not sure if the fuel temp would be cooler or hotter with my setup, but I am pretty confident the fuel runs cooler in the rubber lines vs in metal fuel lines around the engine front. It would be easy to try a rubber hose bypassing the metal ones temporarily to see if that helps.

Maybe and electric fuel pump in line after the mechanical fuel pump would help. Turn it on when you need it. Off when you don't. Consider it a boost pump. Thats what lots of aircraft have.

Take some pics. Patrollin' pics beat garage pics any day. Stay safe.
Tom