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Re: Just joined 11-8-13...L60 in Calif
Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 8:35 pm
by Esteban
The panel looks perfect! Congratulations.
I'm sure the discussion regarding automotive paint could be intense, and although I've painted mine 3 times myself, one with oil based, that was decades ago, so no match for today's technology, and therefore no expert opinion.
But factoring cost, convenience, retouching when needed, all will be playing in your field. Certainly others will be watching your project closely.
One question, are you using an off the shelf color?
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Re: Just joined 11-8-13...L60 in Calif
Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 10:34 pm
by moore_rb
The question od using the cheaper, oil based paint versus a modern, urethane acrylic automotive paint is simply one of shine and color stability over time... and, as mentioned, extra cost
using either a single or two stage base/clear automotive paint will yield a deeper shine, and better light reflectivity. It will also be less prone to color fading over time.
Does all that merit the extra cost of having to use chemically matched primers, reducers, etc...? I don't know. Are you building a show car?
Personally, I think that the rustoleum oil-based enamel would probably provide a very good representation of the level of shine, reflectivity, and smoothness that came with the original laquer paints being used in the early 60's, so if you wanted your Patrol's paint job to look more like it would have originally looked from the factory in the 60's, then the cheap oil based enamel might actually be a better choice ...
The enamel should be just about as hard as acrylic urethane when it cures, so chip resistance should not be a greater concern with either paint option...
Just keep it waxed, and it should last many, many years.
FWIW... I am planning to paint my red Patrol with off the shelf enamel, if I can find a color that is somewhat close to the one I see in my head...
Re: Just joined 11-8-13...L60 in Calif
Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 12:37 pm
by antiquecyles
Esteban wrote:The panel looks perfect! Congratulations.
I'm sure the discussion regarding automotive paint could be intense, and although I've painted mine 3 times myself, one with oil based, that was decades ago, so no match for today's technology, and therefore no expert opinion.
But factoring cost, convenience, retouching when needed, all will be playing in your field. Certainly others will be watching your project closely.
One question, are you using an off the shelf color?
Sent from my iPad using
Tapatalk
Thanks for your response.
I used a quart of Rustoleum oil-based paint, right off the shelf. Available at Lowe's for 9.97
It seemed to come out great and it looks real shiny. I am not going to use it though since the color is much too light. It was more of an experiment. My biggest concern was durability. The paint seems real soft. Maybe it just takes longer to cure since it doesn't have the chemical hardners like automotive paint (?)
The man who sold me my Patrol offered a gallon of the same paint he used to paint it. I need to get over to his house and pick it up!
thanks again,
Kris
Re: Just joined 11-8-13...L60 in Calif
Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 12:50 pm
by antiquecyles
moore_rb wrote:The question od using the cheaper, oil based paint versus a modern, urethane acrylic automotive paint is simply one of shine and color stability over time... and, as mentioned, extra cost
using either a single or two stage base/clear automotive paint will yield a deeper shine, and better light reflectivity. It will also be less prone to color fading over time.
Does all that merit the extra cost of having to use chemically matched primers, reducers, etc...? I don't know. Are you building a show car?
Personally, I think that the rustoleum oil-based enamel would probably provide a very good representation of the level of shine, reflectivity, and smoothness that came with the original laquer paints being used in the early 60's, so if you wanted your Patrol's paint job to look more like it would have originally looked from the factory in the 60's, then the cheap oil based enamel might actually be a better choice ...
The enamel should be just about as hard as acrylic urethane when it cures, so chip resistance should not be a greater concern with either paint option...
Just keep it waxed, and it should last many, many years.
FWIW... I am planning to paint my red Patrol with off the shelf enamel, if I can find a color that is somewhat close to the one I see in my head...
Robert,
Good stuff, thanks!
You have definitely shed light that I needed.
Since the previous owner offered to give me a gallon of paint he used to paint it, I will go that route. I believe it is a single stage. A small investment of reducer and hardner and I will be on my way.
I used the oil-based paint as an experiment. I was considering it on another project (old gas pump) and decided to try it on my Patrol panels. I spent the weekend prepping the interior and got ALL my seats primed. I filled a bunch of previous errors and discovered some cover ups. Someone used a mastic or caulk to fill in voids then painted over them. These voids were at the rear inside corners by the doors. Not sure if something was there before(?) The voids appear to be about 3/4"-1" square spaces.
I prepped the battery compartment so I can put the battery back where it belongs. I have about 70% more prep/primer before I will be ready to mask/shoot.
Totally forgot to take pics!
I will take updated shots on Thurs and load em on Friday.
Thanks again for your input, I appreciate it
Kris
Re: Just joined 11-8-13...L60 in Calif
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 12:29 am
by moore_rb
antiquecyles wrote: My biggest concern was durability. The paint seems real soft. Maybe it just takes longer to cure since it doesn't have the chemical hardners like automotive paint (?)
Yes, oil based enamels are going to take about 4 times longer to fully cure, due to the lack of catalytic hardeners
you could reduce this curing time if you had an oven large enough to drive into, or if you happen to live in Phx, where the summer sun provides a reasonable substitute

Re: Just joined 11-8-13...L60 in Calif
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 3:06 am
by ratpatrol66
50car, Did you but that Patrol from Will Datz? I saw that on a car lot in Shoreline maybe 15+ years ago? The salesmen told me it was the only Patrol in Washington? I kindly informed him the I owned 3. Back to the original program. Craig
Re: Just joined 11-8-13...L60 in Calif
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 3:15 am
by ratpatrol66
antiquecyles, Do you need a horn button and ring? Also did you make the outer door handle on the passenger side? If so any chance you could post pics of it disassembled? Thanks, Craig
Re: Just joined 11-8-13...L60 in Calif
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 6:38 am
by sleepyzzz
our company i rep for sells Yenkin Majestic Paints under the Magic label. They offer a line of equipment enamel paints, and a pint size reducer, and a hardener in a 8 or 4 ounce size for spraying. i bet you could roll it on with good results.
The rep told me to do that myself on my Patrol after showing him pictures of it. he allowed with mostly flat panels to work with, it would be really easy to paint with a roller.
I'm not ready to try it, because when i do, it will be taken down to the frame and done right. but i admire those of you that have taken the task and run with it.
Re: Just joined 11-8-13...L60 in Calif
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 3:11 pm
by antiquecyles
RiverPatrol wrote:Nice work! When your done there I've got a few tasks here to keep you busy a while.

Jut saw this post... HA! Sorry, if I get I have any spare time I will use it to clean up "land mines" in the back yard

Re: Just joined 11-8-13...L60 in Calif
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 3:21 pm
by antiquecyles
ratpatrol66 wrote:antiquecyles, Do you need a horn button and ring? Also did you make the outer door handle on the passenger side? If so any chance you could post pics of it disassembled? Thanks, Craig
Hi Craig,
I have the horn button, ring and spring. I removed it so I could clean it up.
As for the door handles, I bought it like it is. I have seen a few models with ones like mine. I thought I had a rare model but was educated differently. I was told that someone had converted the stock handles using 1/2" solid steel stock. I guess this was common practice since the stock handles are prone to breaking. I really like this look, it seems more utilitarian and military-like. No photos, sorry.
Call if you need anything...951 609-7554, Kris