60Patrol

Nice job converting that carb! Congratulations on getting it running.

To try to isolate where the knocking is coming from, you can use a long screwdriver as a stethoscope. Place the tip of the screwdriver on the engine somewhere, valve cover, block, wherever, and put your ear on the end of the screwdriver. Trust me, it works.

Thanks. It was a bit of a learning experience but so far it has worked out ok. I just have to figure out a adapter for the air filter to the carb and some way of mounting the choke cable . I've got a mechanics stethoscope I use at work for diagnosing worn bearings on refrigeration equipment but am having trouble I soaring the sounds. It's alot easier with a flange or pillow block bearing on industrial fans and such as you can put the scope right on the grease fitting.
Oh by the way if anyone is ever looking to block unused vaccum ports on a carb , rubber caps for capping pneumatic control lines fit perfect. You can usually get them at any pneumatics or controls supplier's

Glad will all the progress you've done.

Regarding the engine noise, first try to get familiar with general troubleshooting of engine noises. I found this on the internet, and looks like a good guide with tips on how to isolate the source of specific noises and when to expect them. What RiverPatrol said will make sense after you read it:

http://www.onallcylinders.com/2014/01/2 ... ne-noises/

Also, a piece of rubber hose will help hearing some noises, like inside the valve cover once you take the oil filler cap.

Regarding the choke cable support bracket, this is what I improvised on mine. I'm running a Carter carb. I think the bracket shown came in a kit to convert the automatic choke to manual.

I will definatley have a look at that article tonight.
That choke bracket would work perfect. I think I've got some scrap metal I can use to make one up.

Does anyone have any ideas on the hose rigged up from the rocker cover to the air breather assembly lid. I'm still trying to wrap my head around that one. I've got the same breather tube that is in your picture Esteban. Which should provide the breathing for the crankcase.

I took the valve cover off and noticed that the front rockers have a bit of surface rust. Could this have been from storing the vehicle on an incline for years and the oil draining off? Is there any way to clean out the oil system and make sure it has enough pressure and is circulating well as I don't know if my oil g works

mattmctree@gmail.com wrote: Does anyone have any ideas on the hose rigged up from the rocker cover to the air breather assembly lid. I'm still trying to wrap my head around that one. I've got the same breather tube that is in your picture Esteban. Which should provide the breathing for the crankcase.

See:
http://www.60patrol.com/forum/viewtopic ... hose#p8466
Keith

Does anyone have a part number for a oil filter as I need to change my filter element

Many part numbers can be found here: http://parts.60patrol.com/

I think the last one I used was a Fram PH2850

John

OK cool. What weight of oil does everyone use. I think I recall the manual stating 20w40?

mattmctree@gmail.com wrote:OK cool. What weight of oil does everyone use. I think I recall the manual stating 20w40?

I've been running 5W-30. Sometimes 10W-30 as well, and normally I buy Penzoil regular dyno oil. I have some leaks, so using synthetic is an overkill. Also, since I don't have a close system since my engine has the exposed breather tube in the back, oil changes must not go beyond the 3,000 miles. I end up changing once a year, since I normally don't go beyond 3k miles in that period.