65 hardtop

[Esteban]

I don't think that the chemical could have done any damage. The block and the head are extremely sturdy, as well as the radiator. Good thinking about flushing everything out with the compressed air. If you're still concern about some residual water, pour just a bit of antifreeze inside.

Sometimes starting in this cold weather can be challenging, and you won't be the first to flood the engine. Try to get some starting fluid. That will definitely help. I always keep one on hand. If the battery is a bit low on charge, you'll compound things even more.

Hopefully tomorrow you will have more luck.

[mattmctree@gmail.com]

Started making up a bracket for my choke cable tonight. I tried to start the truck again temporarily withou the rad on. Even with ether I can get it to catch. It's cold here. Minus 13 today and my shop has no heat so it is a pain trying to get it warm enough to start. Also does anyone know of an adapter i can get to make the air cleaner cover connect to a Rochester carb?

[mattmctree@gmail.com]

pics to come shortly as my wife is getting her ipad fixed. i bent up a bracket to hold the choke cable and it seems to work well. i started the motor and it fired up and seemed to idle ok with a bit of adjustment of the idle speed screw. one thing i noticed is that there is quite a bit of smoke coming from the breather stack on the back of the crankcase as well as the rocker cover?
tommorrow i am getting more water and will flush the entire cooling system again as we are supposed to have above freezing temps over the next few days.
ive started to notice some hackjobs that the previous owner did which really makes me shake my head at times. i will post up some pics as soon as i get the camera back. i hope everyone had a wonderful holiday season

[Esteban]

...one thing i noticed is that there is quite a bit of smoke coming from the breather stack on the back of the crankcase as well as the rocker cover?

Since your engine has been sitting for quite some time, some smoke will be normal. You probably have some blow-by due to stuck piston rings. Reading your posts, I found that member ShowMePatrol recommended pouring Marvel Mystery Oil inside the cylinders and letting it sit for a week. That will definitely help clean the piston rings and your engine will get rid of the blow-by if the inside condition is still good. You can try Seafoam as well. After that, the engine will smoke heavily through the exhaust for some minutes, so be prepared for complains from your neighbors.

[L60Boerne]

Esteban,

Good morning on Jan 4th you mentioned to Matt that you have a new oil filter base. Does that mean you have a modern oil filter? If so would Pancho make me a couple? I would really appreciate modern oil filters. If not, maybe he could send the drawings to Ron so he could make them for us.

Matt, your Patrol build was/is very helpful. I sure wish I had the confidence to tie into something...anything other than a bowl of soup .....and make it work.

Patrolling with passion,
L60Boerne

[mattmctree@gmail.com]

Not so much confidence as curiosity! At least if it's torn down and I can't get it back together I can still get to work with my truck. Haha . I assume I just pull the plugs and pour some marvel oil in the cylinders and let it sit. How much should I put in? I recently got a in line exhaust fan from work and am tracking down some high temp hose as I'm going to make up a exhaust system so I can keep my shop shut and work on it in the winter. Most of my projects are slow as I try and scavenge most things rather than buying them

[Esteban]

... I assume I just pull the plugs and pour some marvel oil in the cylinders and let it sit. How much should I put in?

I was writing about this yesterday but then couldn't post. I will put about 1/4 cup to 1/2 cup (60cc to 120cc) on each cylinder. That will be about 1/2" to 2/4" on top of each piston.

Put #1 at TDC (last mark arriving on the pulley as it rotates, with the mark in the cover) then rotate a little less than a 1/4 turn, so all the cylinders will be down and you can pour the oil with confidence. You can double check the position of the pistons with a long screw driver.

[mattmctree@gmail.com]

image.jpeg

I finally got our iPad back and was able to take a few pics of the work I've done. It's not much but it's all I've had time for lately.
I used some flat stock steel and a torch to heat it up and I made up a bracket to hold the choke cable. It works great and once I got it all hooked up the truck turns over quite well. My only question is that I have to hold the throttle to keep it running. It's a Rochester bv carb am in wondering can I just play with the idle screw on the linkage rather than the carb setting . I've never set one up before. Also how to I tell what rpm I'm at so I can set that properly .

I was able to get a fitting much like the one you posted Esteban and it leaked a bit but I tightened the snot out of it and it seems to be ok

Here are a couple pics

[Johnny Roadkill]

Personally, I think it's a more robust idea to set the carb idle screw correctly while the linkage is not applying any opening force, and then adjust the linkage so that it *just* allows the carb to return to idle when your foot is off the pedal. Using the linkage will work, but any flex in the body or wear in the linkage will mean readjustment.

cheers,
D

PS - carb looks nice !

[mattmctree@gmail.com]

So I turned the motor over again and ran it for 30 seconds and shut it down. I noticed some smoke or steam coming from the water pump. ( I had the hoses all off) when I originally drained the coolant it wasn't milky at all. I'm going to be doing a leakdown test to see if I can find any issues. Has anyone had a cracked head or block before? Just curious If these motors are prone to that. Another dumb question I have is the rad and block have been drained over the winter and blown away with air. I'm assuming I don't have to worry about any damage due to freezin conditions