Mdawg's 67 Patrol.

[mdawg4x4]

Finally got the rear brake springs sorted out. My buddy actually had both rear lower springs on the right side and therefore we put the 2 top springs on the left side. I'm kicking myself for not getting final pictures before putting the drums back on! We still have to finish bleeding the lines. The the Pertronix ignition and try to fire it back up. I just cannot find a lot of time to work on it. Thanks everybody for the pictures and info on the brakes so far.

[mdawg4x4]

I just noticed I need a new signature picture. The Frontier and PRO4X Xterra no longer reside at my house.

[mdawg4x4]

Brake update on the 67.
Just a review. We replaced all 6 wheel cylinders, front short hard lines at the each wheel, front flex line at each wheel, both rear hard lines at the axle, front and rear drop flex line, the master cylinder (see below), both master cylinder drop lines, new proportioning valve, rear adjusters, and all new shoes.

Not replaced: long line from proportioning valve to rear, both front hard lines along the axle. But we blew the old fluid out and air through at a rate that led us to believe they are not blocked.

We gravity bled the cylinders from the furthest to the closest. Hit them all again with a vacuum bleeder with mixed results. It was the first time either of us used one. I assume the master cylinder caps need to be off to do this?

Anyhow, we got the front to work with the pedal so the drums would stop so we couldn't turn them by hand.
We thought we had the rear doing the same. But never got a good pedal. So we attempted to use the vacuum bleeder one more time, at which point I lost a little pedal and could no longer get the rear drums to lock up.

We are at a little loss. I searched to see if there was a comprehensive post on installing new wheel cylinders and shoes and bleeding and adjusting the system properly. I saw bits and pieces, but nothing comprehensive. Anybody care to write a How To thread titled "G60 Brakes for Dummies!"

I went from this master cylinder:


To this Wilwood master cylinder, but recall the bore being the same as the OEM master cylinder, 1" I believe.

Any thoughts on what to look at.

[Esteban]

...Anyhow, we got the front to work with the pedal so the drums would stop so we couldn't turn them by hand.
We thought we had the rear doing the same. But never got a good pedal. So we attempted to use the vacuum bleeder one more time, at which point I lost a little pedal and could no longer get the rear drums to lock up.

Any thoughts on what to look at.

You certainly have done everything that's normally called for. The brakes in the Patrol don't have any mysteries.

My only suggestion will be to bypass the proportioning valve, or play with its setting first.

When you talk about lock up, is it with the Patrol moving?

[mdawg4x4]

...Anyhow, we got the front to work with the pedal so the drums would stop so we couldn't turn them by hand.
We thought we had the rear doing the same. But never got a good pedal. So we attempted to use the vacuum bleeder one more time, at which point I lost a little pedal and could no longer get the rear drums to lock up.

Any thoughts on what to look at.

You certainly have done everything that's normally called for. The brakes in the Patrol don't have any mysteries.

My only suggestion will be to bypass the proportioning valve, or play with its setting first.

When you talk about lock up, is it with the Patrol moving?

Not locked up on the ground. I'm still on jack stands. We realize it will take more adjustment to stop the actual vehicle. We're just trying to get close while everything is easy to get to. We did try the proportioning adjustments from one end of adjustment to the other and when adjusted in the middle.
Could the front be locking up before I get enough stroke in the rear? Maybe I need to back off the front adjusters until the rear are completely bled. Furthest to closest? But with the split system you should be able to bleed one side or the other when you have to repair 1 wheel.
I don't know.

[Esteban]

Not locked up on the ground. I'm still on jack stands. We realize it will take more adjustment to stop the actual vehicle. We're just trying to get close while everything is easy to get to. We did try the proportioning adjustments from one end of adjustment to the other and when adjusted in the middle.
Could the front be locking up before I get enough stroke in the rear? Maybe I need to back off the front adjusters until the rear are completely bled. Furthest to closest? But with the split system you should be able to bleed one side or the other when you have to repair 1 wheel.
I don't know.

It looks like you have not make adjustments to brake shoes yet. It's possible that with all the master cylinder travel, you still need a little more to actually lock the rear wheels. With the shoes adjusted and the vehicle on jack stands, the slightest pressure on the brake pedal would lock the wheels.

Can relate to your frustration at the moment. It happens always when dealing with your own car. Never with friends'!

[Peter60]

I spent months on my first Patrol trying to get the brakes to work properly! I replaced so many unnecessary things and posted numerous calls for help.

It turned out to be fairly simple. Brake adjustment.

Turn all brake adjusters - front and back - on full so the brakes are all locked. Then turn them all off one click. The brakes will still drag but should work.

Bleed the brakes. If they are working properly, without pumping, back off the brakes one click, maybe starting with the front, test then the rear.

Keep backing the off until at some stage the pedal has too much travel then you have backed off to much, so tighten them.

The brakes may still drag, due to drums out of round or the shoes not aligned properly, but they should still work. The drag will disappear over time as the brake shoes wear in.

The mistake I made was to back the adjusters off until there was no dragging. That allowed too much pedal movement (often to the floor). Once the brakes had a little drag all worked!

[RiverPatrol]

I third that opinion, adjust, adjust, adjust. Many parts have been replaced for what could have been corrected with adjustment.

[mdawg4x4]

I spent months on my first Patrol trying to get the brakes to work properly! I replaced so many unnecessary things and posted numerous calls for help.

It turned out to be fairly simple. Brake adjustment.

Turn all brake adjusters - front and back - on full so the brakes are all locked. Then turn them all off one click. The brakes will still drag but should work.

Bleed the brakes. If they are working properly, without pumping, back off the brakes one click, maybe starting with the front, test then the rear.

Keep backing the off until at some stage the pedal has too much travel then you have backed off to much, so tighten them.

The brakes may still drag, due to drums out of round or the shoes not aligned properly, but they should still work. The drag will disappear over time as the brake shoes wear in.

The mistake I made was to back the adjusters off until there was no dragging. That allowed too much pedal movement (often to the floor). Once the brakes had a little drag all worked!

Sounds like a plan. Is this locked with tires on the ground? Or as my case, still on stands with tires still stacked against the wall? Sounds like I'm somewhat close. Gotta go get more brake fluid and try again.

Next question, and probably should have been the first question...Should the brake master cylinder push rod be seated against the master cylinder piston with the brake pedal at normal position? Should it be a snug fit? Or just barely touching?

[Esteban]

Next question, and probably should have been the first question...Should the brake master cylinder push rod be seated against the master cylinder piston with the brake pedal at normal position? Should it be a snug fit? Or just barely touching?

The push rod should be barely touching the piston. Like 1/32" or less than 1mm. Otherwise you might risk the chance of blocked wheel once the system heats up under normal use.

The Service Manual for later years has the following, that'll probably make it easier to figure out the play at the pushrod:

2. Using shims, adjust push rod so that pedal
free play is 2 to 11 mm (0.08 to 0.43 in). Then
secure master cylinder securing bolt.

They are referring to shims between the master cylinder and the mounting surface. The above will translate into a gap of approximately 0.3mm to 1.5mm (0.010" to 0.06" or ~1/16") at the push rod.