60Patrol

We all know too well that a 60 series Patrol cross member usually comes 2 ways. Near perfect or completely and utterly buggered! After a lot of search this morning I have uncovered a number of posts that discuss the need to replace or repair but we don't actually have a thread (that I could uncover) dedicated to the repair and replacement of these holier-than-thou yet very important pieces.

I'll kick things off. Below are pictures of HP's cross member. I'd love to hear peoples thoughts and ideas on how to go about this fix. Even better post up your solutions if you have already completed it.

As I see it there are a few options (lets assume the body is on the frame and engine is in):

1. Cut the whole member off and replace with custom. This presents the problem to properly tie in the rear engine mounts to the new member while the engine is still in the car and the body is on.

2. Cut the bottom section off leaving only the top "plate". My '77 shorty had this done. The owner then made a new cross member from 25x50mm box and welded it to the original top plate.

4. Create a "brace" from angle. This could wrap around the existing cross member adding support.

Tim-

From what I see in those pics, that cross member is too far trashed to try and repair it - I can see in the pictures that even the top piece has flaking rust inside it. It's gone.

Option 1 is the only one I would be considering if it were mine (especially if it were for a truck that is actually going to get used for some real off-road action.)

to keep the frame from shifting while the rusted parts are being cut out, I would remove the rear driveshaft, and weld a piece of 2x2 square tube across the frame behind the original crossmember (to act as a temporary cross member) - Leaving the powertrain in place will actually be a bonus because the bellhousing mounts will also help to add structure and strength.

Once your temporary brace is in place, you can cut out all the diseased steel, and fab up your permanent replacement.

As a side note to this discussion: has anyone ever seen any damage caused as a result of this cross member being totally buggered? I know of one Patrol that is missing the cross member entirely. Just a thought.

I have sucessfully performed Option 3 for several years now...

Flaggoni wrote:I have sucessfully performed Option 3 for several years now...

Funny and true

Good topic, been wondering what I'll do with mine. It's been cut and shut on the driver's side but whoever did it left the other side to continue on in it's rusty ways.
So wish that they hadn't made the mounts part of the cross member. I'm thinking a bit more cut and shut and cleaning up what's already been done plus drilling some big holes in the bottom so I can at least hose the crap out after a mud run.

RiverPatrol wrote:As a side note to this discussion: has anyone ever seen any damage caused as a result of this cross member being totally buggered? I know of one Patrol that is missing the cross member entirely. Just a thought.

Personal opinion here, but with the way that the bellhousing transmission mounts bolt to the frame right above the central cross member, the bellhousing itself adds structure in this area- So, running this way (without a cross member) is probably adequate for a Patrol that only get driven on 100% flat, paved roads; but it is not safe for a vehicle that is going to venture out into rough terrain where the frame can twist and flex...

the best option is always going to be to repair the cross member and keep the stress off the transmission bell housing and mounts.

moore_rb wrote:

RiverPatrol wrote:As a side note to this discussion: has anyone ever seen any damage caused as a result of this cross member being totally buggered? I know of one Patrol that is missing the cross member entirely. Just a thought.

the best option is always going to be to repair the cross member and keep the stress off the transmission bell housing and mounts.

Of course it is, but I've been waiting all these years for the ultimate pic of the Patrol folded in half due to the cross member being damaged or missing.

RiverPatrol wrote:I've been waiting all these years for the ultimate pic of the Patrol folded in half due to the cross member being damaged or missing.

Well, what you might get instead are pictures of a broken transmission mount, or a cracked or broken bellhousing...

I agree with Rob. You can't deal with that cross member correctly with the drivetrain in the truck. That cross member is really wasted, worse I have ever seen. I also agree with Rob, without the #2 cross member you risk busting the bellhousing or worse. Pretty unlikely though, SWB Patrols have 5 cross members in total which is a ton. Frames are super stout on these trucks. Without lockers hard to get it in rough enough terrain to really put some twist in the frame.

On my 83 Patrol we cut out the #2 cross member and fabricated our own trans mounts. That truck has seen some fairly gnarly off-roading. The rock crawling caused one of the welds for the fabb'ed trans mount to rip nearly in half. With the old mounts and cross member, I destroyed the trans mounts in about 50 miles off-road and they were brand new mounts! When I remake these mounts I will either go with much thicker steel, 3/8s and or add a cross member.

Tim, here are some pics of a cross member I am working on now, know you saw these on FB but maybe they will help somebody out. I actually consider this to be a fairly decent cross member. Next to no dents and only a few small areas where it is thin and two tiny holes.



tiny hole



these cause the rotting more than anything else. When I work on these cross members I remove these and just reinforce the inside with a 3/16" plate.



clean the sucker out of crud and sand blast inside of it



after cleaning, weld through primer



3/16s plate on the inside



areas I cut out and patched, welded inside and out.



ground welds down to remove any rough surfaces for dirt and funk to cling to, you can also see I enlarged the drain hole to 3/4" in size from the stock 5/8's hole.



patches as seen from the outside, 90% done and cleaned up





nearly finished and restored cross member



Here is the one that was fully fabricated for the 64 soft top, built out of 1/4" so fairly strong. CAD design





old vs new



finished cross member, you can see we added more drain holes. This to make cleaning and washing the inside of the cross member easier.





Cheers