Stuck Brake Drum

[BJA]

Finally got the engine running on my '69 Patrol and decided to move on to the brakes. I have pulled the MC and have a stuck piston that I am soaking in penetrating oil in hopes I can rebuild it. Pulled the rear wheels to find that the brake drum was seized up, I tried everything from penetrating oil, hammer, torch with no avail. After several days of this I figured I had to try another avenue. Went to a local tool rental here in town and picked up the largest gear puller they had. When it finally went it sounded like a shot gun blast....

Ordered new front and rear wheel cylinders from 4WD Products today and hope to have them in couple weeks to rebuild brakes.

[RiverPatrol]

That's one way of doing it. Some just give up after beating on it with a hammer for a few hours.

[RMP&O]

They can be a real PITA!! I bought a "brake drum puller" but after receiving it found it won't work on the Patrol. I don't have a big enough puller like the one you pictured to try that.

Problem is the backing plate if you want to not beat it up. That and if the adjuster is seized shoes won't back off. I used to really struggle with seized drums but have some methods now that get them right off. Just the other day some very rusty ones came off in under 20 minutes. Use the BFH for sure and rotate while smacking it. I use a big rubber dead blow as I don't like beating up drums that can't be bought anymore. Tap the wheel studs with a brass hammer, they should go in 1/4" or so. Use chisel in center of drum and drive it in being careful to not damage drum or flange on axle. Tap from backside between the slots in the backing plate. That has done the trick for me on the last 4-5 trucks I had to pull drums on with no damage to the drum or backing plate. Can't do all these things on the front but you get the idea.

Use copious amounts of anti-seize on the adjuster when reassembling!

Cheers

[Flaggoni]

I like that idea of knocking the wheel studs in a little ways! Gonna try that on my
field-bound parts Patrol.
Also, for future removal ease, once the drums are off, drill and tap the drum in three spots perhaps slightly outboard of the stud bolt-circle. Locate the holes between every other stud. 5/16 NF or 3/8NF should work.
To remove drums in the future, simply tighten bolts into these holes. This will force the drum off easily.
Mild Bill

[BJA]

I moved onto the front drums last night and am worried that the gear puller I used on the back drums may damage the front hubs. Anyone have any thoughts on the best way to proceed with removal of front drums. I am guessing they have not been removed in over 20 years. Also, anyone know what make these hubs are? Thanks in advance for the help.

BJA

[RiverPatrol]

The post above from RMPO has the most successful technique.

[BJA]

The wheel studs will move inward 1/4 inch if taped with a brass hammer?

[RMP&O]

The wheel studs will move inward 1/4 inch if taped with a brass hammer?

Yes. They are pressed into the hub (front) or the rear axle flange (rear). So with some tapping they back off. Brass hammer keeps you from doing any damage to the lug studs. I suggest putting the lug nuts on there too before the brass hammer for even better protection. What happens is rust can form around the studs and the drum, locking it in place even more than just the shoes not wanting to let go. So tapping the studs in helps free it all up.

Also when I say "chisel" between drum and axle flange, I am talking a certain type of chisel that won't do damage to either part. I have a whole bunch of them in the tool chest so I just use whatever in the moment that seems to work and won't beat things up.

On that front drum, tear off the free wheeling hub. You will have a stub axle sticking out which will have a dimple hole in the center of it. That will give you something to put the center of the puller on. You may want to also pulled "C" clips on axle stub to not bust them pushing inward on it. However, proceed with much caution and at your own risk. Putting a lot of force on the axle shaft and pushing it inward is not a good idea. In theory though it should be ok and work. Again, proceed with caution! Give it lot's and lot's of hits with the BFH while rotating it, tap the lug studs inward. I would do that for an hour or two before putting much force on the axle stub with the puller. In other words, I would result to the puller last and as a last resort.

Good luck and cheers!

[BJA]

RMP&O, thank you for the help. I'll be giving it hell this afternoon.

[RMP&O]

Hey one last thing. Pull the hubs on both sides and the C-clips if you use the puller on it. That way if you push on the axle shaft it shouldn't do any damage to the hub on the other side. That free wheeling hub has an alloy body, you wouldn't want to crack or bust it.


Also I don't recall the brand of your free wheeling hubs but they are fairly common on Patrols. Perhaps somebody else will chime in and tell us the brand of them. The Warn hubs are my favorite but the ones you have do seem to work well.


Cheers and good luck!