Removing 66' Patrol Body

[G60michael]

Hi Guy's, Planning to Remove my 66' G60 Body in one go as I don't really want to remove the tub, Floor pan/Firewall and front Clip individually. What is the easiest way to do it without damaging the body.

I know I need to undo the 10 Main Bolts and the 2 small ones below the back barn door. I Realize all harness from Engine and linkages for clutch and accelerator must be undone as well as brake lines from master cylinder.

What's the best was to remove the steering Colum as I don't think I will be able to remove my drag link from the steering box, can the 4 bolts on the Colum that fixes to the box be removed.

Going to be fully Sandblasting Chassis and Repainting It, While Body is off underside will be blasted and painted, All Rust to be Repaired, remove some Dint's and fix wiring so in a few months time she will be Registered

Help Required ASAP

Cheers michael

[RiverPatrol]

I don't know that you will get many suggestions, I don't think anyone here has ever removed the complete body in one piece. It's not recommended in any book published. If you are going to the extent of sand blasting and painting, why would you cut corners by not prepping and painting the edges of the body panels? There is serious rust there that need addressing.

I can't envision how you would go about lifting the firewall with the entire body attached over the steering column. It isn't possible to detach the steering column by simply unbolting the 4 bolts at the gear box. Give it try on one of your wrecks and see. If you tried lifting the entire body as one piece, without the frame supporting anything the body panels are going to twist and bend. Just all around not really a good idea.

[moore_rb]

Mike- You've got all the primary points. - The 8 main body mount bolts (4 under tub, 2 under the firewall, and two under the radiator shell, the two small bolts beneath the barn doors, and the two small bolts on the brackets between the front fenders and the shock mounts.

the steering has to come out as a complete assembly - remove the steering wheel, then disconnect the steering column bracket from the firewall on the inside, then unhook the steering link from the pitman arm, and then the 3 main bolts that attach the steering box to the frame, and it should slide out from the bottom.

you'll need to unhook the brake lines, disconnect the clutch linkage, and all the wiring harnesses. unhook and remove the radiator, and then the body should lift off the chassis...


HOWEVER - Like Leslie says- the body is not designed to come off this way, especially on a soft-top Patrol - I don't know if the soft top frame is strong enough to prevent the body from sagging at the front floor pan when you go to lift it... You will have to use lots of straps (or lots of mates), and be vary careful while lifting it off the frame.

[G60michael]

Hi Guy's Thanks for the heads up on the body twist ect.

So What is involved in Removing the Rear Tub, The 4 Main Body Mount Bolts and the 2 Rear Bolts Below Doors ? I believe a Series of Bolts around the Seat Box area somewhere ? Then should that lift off with a couple of blokes ?

Then For the Front Clip, I know the Series of Bolts around the Firewall where the Fenders Bolt on and the radiator panel mount bolts.

As for the Firewall and floor pan, Does it Come as one Section or can the firewall be separated from the floor pan ? I figure a Few Fellas could Get the Floor Firewall/Floor Pan and rotate it to the same age as the steering Colum and it should come off as we lift it following the same angle up ?

With a couple of people how long would it take to remove the patrol Body ?

[RiverPatrol]

There are dozens of threads posted in the 'Projects' section where many people have done this before. Maybe browse through some of the posts there and you will get a good idea of what's ahead for you. Lots and lots of pictures of the process. I remember that Swerve had documented his tear down pretty thoroughly but I can't seem to find his thread.

[jwgreen]

I removed most of my body, minus the front clip all in one go. But I welded up a square tubing support that was bolted in between the front doors, the rear door opening and then across the middle of the tub.

Tub.JPG

Heres the best pic I can find of it.

[miller]

Hey mate,

Not sure why you need it ASAP...
But some sound advise above, I just replied to another post you made on the same topic, try to keep it all on the one so you/us don't get confused and can find the topics again in the future.

Start with the floor. Bolts along the battery box section and in the footwell. Also pins from memory on the underside at firewall and main tub. Once the floor is out you can remove the firewall and tub easily. 2 man job to safely lift them off.

[miller]

Just jump in there and start snapping bolts and busting knuckles.. If it won't lift off you missed a bolt. Good luck!

[G60michael]

Hey thanks Tim, Well here's a shot from this morning, got the tub off and had great success, Managed to remove all bolts without any Snapping Ive Pulled the front grill, fenders and inner guards aswell, with also no snapped bolts. Removed the Steering Colum to make firewall removal easier.

all I need to remove now is the firewall and Front Floor Pan,whets the best way to handle it for rust repairs is it to separate floor from firewall or is it remove it as one Piece ?

I guess I best remove the doors first though, cheers

[miller]

The best way to handle rust repairs would be to leave it together and patch the really bad rust as you find it. I assume you're doing this for rego?
Now that you are going to all the effort to remove the body (as Leslie has already told you) don't cut corners by leaving parts like the floor and firewall connected. Rust is a prick of a thing and unless you remove every spec it will quickly return and ruin your good paint. Remember painting is 98% preparation and you only get out what you put in